The following are conditions from the past 3 days of ice guiding in the front range.
Jan 31 - Grotto Canyon: Grotto Falls was very wet turning the rope into a cable for the rest of the day. Hers is funky with a small roof at half-height then the final awkward detached bulge to get to the chains. His has a big roof near with minimal opportunity for good ice screws to protect it; essentially soloing. Despite guidebook grading (both WI4, actually Hers is called WI3-4), both these routes usually feel quite a bit harder even though they are short. Neither are recommended for a fledging WI4 leader.
Feb 1 - Weathering Heights, The Ghost: An unforecasted 10cm of new snow fell over night but thankfully no new drifting on the drive in due to the lack of wind. However, today's (Feb 2) wind probably has made new drifts so be sure to throw a shovel in the trunk. It was a cold day with max temp of -15 C. The hike into Planters Valley was a stumble-fest with the new snow coating the boulders. The route has seen tons of traffic thus providing solid hooks and steps. The steep pillar-like crux on the first pitch is very hollow and fragile sounding but well picked out so be delicate and hook. Lots of in-situ V-threads of varying quality so inspect them well and back them up before committing full trust. Anorexia Nervousa is looking on its last legs: The 1st pitch smear is very thin and the pillar on the last pitch is cracked right through.
Feb 2 - Moonlight Falls, Evan Thomas Creek: The first pitch is very hooked out. The crux pillar presents two options. A well-travelled skinny pillar on the right or the not-so-well-travelled main pillar on the left. We opted for the left variation because it sported thicker albeit fresh ice. This and the last step to the trees have reformed over the hooks and is very brittle (lots of dinner plating and cracking) with the cold temps (max of -10 C today). There is a nice equalized 3 V-thread rappel anchor on the ledge but it is exposed to a mess of free-hanging icicles pouring over the lip of the roof above. We rappelled from it but I wouldn't belay there since it would lengthen your time under them. We belayed on the far left side of the big ledge away from the hazard. Another party was on Snowline which looks in good shape and also super hooky.
Sean Isaac
Assistant Alpine Guide