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Tuesday, February 6, 2007

[MCR] this house of sky - Bourgeau left.

Was working today in the North Ghost.
This house of sky.
The route is a nice outing a step up from a walk with a pretty stout 30 feet
of ice in the upper bowl. A very nice outing and well worth the time.
considering the conditions, snow on the route and usable fix anchors, don't
bother with the walk off we it took less than one hour from the very top.

The road in was fine, some deep ruts by the first steel bridge but no big
deal they can be easily avoided to the right. Some freezing rain was comming
down as we drove back up^the hill about 15:00. If you go in to the NGoast,
ask some currently well establish yurt dwellers for coffee (GBU) location.

Bourgeau left, spoke to some friends (experienced ice climbers) who climbed
the route today, they did not have access to this forum. The route as Jessie
had described a while back and Mike did yesterday, is maybe not worth the
current lead, there is lots of good ice in other locations right now. Other
south facing routes will be suffering the same faith, top of Cascade got
baked in this last sun session and the end of mix master is now a wet "dry
tooling" passage in between the fixed pins on the last pitch. But a bridge
too far, for climbing in the sun, is awesome the walk is short, 45minutes,
and contrary to the guide book info it can clearly be scene from the road
while driving north.

Cheers.
P.Delaney

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