well hooked out. Jeff Relph tried the right side the same day, and found the ice
to be extremely hard...and noted it was steeper than the left as well. The last
pitch was quite wet.
Weeping Wall Jan 13th: Very fragile surface conditions. Lots of hacking through
eggshell like surface to get placements. We came down after starting up pitch
3. Went up Sniveling Gulley afterwards. Waste deep trail breaking between ice
pitches (low density snow). The last pitch had similar qualities to Left
Hand....lots of chopping through ice layers for placements.
Guiness Gulley Jan 14th: Heavy trail breaking up to the climb through low
density snow. Once again the ice quality was very poor, and very similar to the
weeping wall. Quality of pitch 3 is unknown (probably poor) as the first 2
pitches were quite time consuming.
Temperatures were warming to -17 on Guinness Gulley today.
Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guide
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