Temps at the Parking area at 8:30 -12C, no wind and no observed winds up
high either, some valley fog.
The route is in fine shape, climbing wise with the crux being a fine intro
to a "harder pitch" some hooks but not Swiss cheese with lots of good screw
options.
Last section above the pillar is very straight forward compared to some
years.
However!
The Objective Hazard is quite high at the moment. The large pillar on the
right stands/leans over the right side approach ice (easiest climbing).
And the left and obvious climbing line has many large fragile looking
daggers. We chose the quick right hand route to a tree belay.
While belaying from well inside the cave the pillar cracked about 6 feet
down from a previous crack at the top that is only visible from inside the
cave.
With my climber well out of the way I still nearly vomited, who knows with
dynamic movement of ice ware something that big with many pieces hitting
each other on the colapse could go!
The time spent on the right side was shorter than it would have been
climbing on the other side. But even with the quality of climbing from and
above the cave I would think that the hazard is too high for the overall
nature of this climb. Climbs fall off in the best of conditions, large temp
fluctuations possible on this climb could catch some one. but even with
steady temps, best wait until the large stick falls off i think.
Temps at the top of the climb 12:00 -8C. Not much sun had hit the route
between our arrival and departure at 1:30 or so.
Patrick Delaney
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