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Monday, January 29, 2007

[MCR] Bourgeau Left Hand

Hello,
 
On Sunday Sandy Walker and I climbed the first pitch Bourgeau Left hand. The ice became detached mid way up the pitch which made for that nice "bonging" sound described in the Waterfall Ice guide, we were also getting propagating cracks from heavy swings. The protection was also not great. All in all a bit of a scary lead and not recommended. We quickly bailed.
 
Other considerations would be the amount of snow above the route (which hasn't slid) if there is warmer temperatures or the avalanche conditions change.
 
Jesse de Montigny
Assistant Alpine Guide
Assistant Ski Guide