Climbed Aberdeen today Saturday Aug 5. Temperatures were cold with 2 degrees in the Lake Louise campground @ 3am, -1 at the toe of the glacier @ 630am and 6 degrees @ the summit @ 1130am. The lower glacier was in good shape but the upper slope above the bergshrund was rock hard ice with a 4 cm ice sheild over top that smashed away to get good screws underneath in the old black ice. There was 4 cm of new snow above 2700 meters that was bonded well to the old surface but quick to ball up crampons when exposed to the sun. We decided to descend down into Paradise valley as the rock fall was quite active with any sun exposure on the glacier.
take care
Andrew Langsford
Asst Alpine/ski guide
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