glacier that lys directly below the route. Gained the glacier via
morraine/ridge climbers left. Interesting glacier travel with some front
pointing up crevasse walls, after the initial trough we favoured the
climbers left hand side of things until an uninterupted ramp led to the
snow cone below the route. Bergshrund on the route quite straight
forward. Ice screw anchors all the way with the exception of one
t-slot/picket anchor mid route. A strange 10cm thick solid ice crust
overlying 2cm of air overlying the true iceface for the last 100m. North
ridge descent dry and fine, no crampons after the small summit ice
slope. Winter up there today, I'm sure, with all the snow overnight.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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