In general the mountains are in excellent condition for Alpine climbing. A
series of storms mid-week brought some fresh snow and verglass to the upper
reaches of the main ranges of the Rockies and this has not yet all melted.
Expect some lingering fresh snow and icy rock especially on northerly
aspects. This snow was not reported in the interior ranges. The snow/ice
routes are in reasonable shape with a little soft snow over hard ice. As
this year is one of the driest anyone has ever seen, the glaciers are
melting back and exposing lots of loose rock. Rockfall is a real concern.
Route travel times may need to be increased on some routes due to the
slower nature of climbing on rock or talus where there is normally snow.The
bergshrunds are gaping and in some cases have made route access very
difficult if not impossible. The forecast for the weekend is showing
promise with a ridge of high pressure building in and mainly clear skies
expected for the southern parts of BC and Alberta. Start early and enjoy
the freeze.
Brad White
UIAGM Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.