Climbed Terminal Peak on August 18th, up the trail to Perley Rock, around the south side of North Terminal Peak onto the Illecillewaet Glacier, and up a short snow/ice face and then a scramble up the west ridge of North Terminal Peak. Crampons were nice to have on the lower part of the Glacier approach where it has bared off to ice. The bergschrund is getting large at the base of the 100m, 40 degree snow/ice face, but there is still an easy, safe crossing point, climber’s left of center. Very nice views, and the summit provides a rarely seen angle of the south/west side of Sir Donald and the Vaux Glacier. 12 hours car to car at a leisurely pace.
Hiked to the lower bivy site Below Sir Donald/Uto on August 19th. Climbed Sir Donald via the NW Ridge on August 20th, descending via the summit block by-pass on the west face and then the bolted rappel line. Sir Donald is very dry, and excellent condition. There were at least twenty climbers on the ridge on Sunday August 20th. Busy place.
Jordy Shepherd
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide