that seemed to be holding just east of the Divide did not prevail
west of the pass. Field was -20C at 8:30am under a low ceiling, and
never warmer than -17C.
From the road, most climbs in the valley look like they still have a
fair bit of room for improvement for "normal" January conditions.
Massey's looked quite skinny down low but otherwise in. (Access via
the river crossing didn't look quite doable yet, with enough open
water still visible to make it look not straightforward to connect
the frozen dots.) Overhead hazard notwithstanding, Pilsner and
Kronenberg seemed not yet in, but Carlsberg looked ripe.
Headed up Guiness with the prospect of brittle, cranky ice and
weren't disappointed. Sublimation during the recent cold temps has
left the first pitch looking anemic with much of the ice an aerated
veneer. Screws were short and/or in delaminating ice. As usual, ice
on the upper pitches improved in quality, but was mainly still
delicate with creaky hooks. Snow above and between the pitches was
30-50cm of decomposed sugar to ground with a few remnants of soft
slabs. Guiness Stout looked typically fat, and High Test also in.
Hopefully the forecasted warming trend over the next few days will
get some water moving again there and help regenerate things. Let the
healing begin.
Carl Johnston
RG, AAG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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