I guided Red Man Soars Yesterday. From the drainage where we left our skis I busted a trail, the going was tough at times, but now there is a good trail. There was a party few days ago who skied all the way in to the first ice, but that would have been too tough for my guest. The gullies and head walls all cleaned off in the last storm, however there wasn't as much snow there as the rest of K-country.
The 1st pitch (rock pitch) was in great shape, with few cm of snow on it which made a bit harder. The Ice near the top at the bulge took 13 cm screws. The 2nd pitch (this photo) is not in and looked a bit too desperate for me to try it. My guest ended up climbing the 1st pitch twice because one of his crampons fell off near the top below the ice, l lowered him back down and he climb it again.
When we arrived at the car it was 0 degrees.
Red man Soars - 2nd pitch (Jan 16/11)