[MCR] Murchison Falls

Climbed Murchison Falls today. A warm day, -4 at Rampart Creek hostel at 5am. The climb is in good shape, with many options for lines of ascent. A few wet spots and drips throughout, but the top pitch was dry, no water spray coming from the climbers left. The direct line on the top pitch went at WI 5+, but a more sneaky line could be climbed closer to the guidebook grade. There is a cornice threatening the lower climber's right side of the falls.

There is quite a bit of snow about, and the winds have formed soft and hard slabs in the valley and on the snow slope leading up to the base of the main falls, definitely enough snow, and enough wind effect to make slab avalanches a concern.

There was light rain at Saskatchewan River Crossing this evening, which turned to snow at around 2000m on the drive home.

Jason Billing
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide

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