Hi Everyone:
Very pleasant day on THOS yesterday with temps between 0 and -3 C. The route is generally in good shape at WI 2-3 until one reaches the large alpine basin, where the drainage opens up (see attached photo). For those who continue higher up, the crux is a short step of 15 meters (see attached rapelling shot) which was about WI4, but good screws are hard to get. If you climb all the way to ridge line beyond the last technical 30 meters of fat ice, watch out for the wind slabs sitting on basal facets (i.e. re-crystalized snow right on the rocks). On your way to the ridge line, you’ll also encounter a short, lower angle mixed section that can be challenging to down climb (no rap anchors).
I’ve also attached a shot of GBU, which is still looking a bit thinish, but good enough for a couple of lines to be climbed. Bring tall rubber boots or a high clearance SUV to cross the creek from the regular parking spot.
Generally speaking, the road is in the best shape I’ve ever seen it, namely the big hill and crossing the following dry riverbed.
Enjoy!
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA)
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com