Aug 19 - Climbed Mt. Niblock and Mt. Whyte via their normal routes. Both peaks are completely dry and no ice axe is required. Some of the bigger peaks around Lake Louise (Lefroy, Victoria, etc.) still appear to have a dusting of snow above 3000m, but I'm sure this is melting given the recent temperatures (especially on southerly aspects).
Aug 20 - Climbed Boundary Peak via the north glacier. This route is virtually snow free with only a couple of hundred metres of snow travel on the upper glacier. Mt. Atahabsca still has some lingering snowpatchs on the North Face and there looks to be a fair amount of snow on the Silverhorn and the Ramp Route. Otherwise the glaciers are very dirty and have a late-summer look to them.
Have fun!
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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