unable to post numerous updates but I will retro post a few changes to
routes over the next day or two:
Climbed Meisner's ridge in late July (shortly after Mark's post on the MCR)
and took a small sack of pitons to leave behind. I tried to update most of
the belay anchors that didn't readily accept gear. A very large percentage
of the belay anchors at the start of most technical pitches now sport two
pitons.
This begins just after the first knife edge traverse section which does not
have a fixed belay but just past the traverse you will quickly find two
bugaboo blades pasted into the floor to belay your second. From that point
on look for pins at the start of most pitches. The start of one pitch
farther along the ridge which does not appear to have any pitons now sports
two pins about ten feet up where a decent ledge with cracks was better than
the base of the ridge.
Not all of the pitons now in place are bombproof but the ones I left behind
were welding into place with two hands. Best if you back up anything you
don't trust as always.
Also, instead of climbing the tower and rappelling down as per normal you
can also rappel from a large block just before the tower and then easily
climb up on the back side of the tower. From here you easily bypass the
tower. This is less awkward than the tower. I left a rap sling and
quick-link at this alternate location.
The descent down the backside sports a rap station which makes the loose
downclimbing here less mentally taxing after a long day. I left a new larger
quick-link here. Be sure to bring enough long tat to leave behind on the
rappel off the tower during the ascent and the rappel on the large block on
the descent.
The hoodoo canyon does not currently require any rappels as described in
"Selected Alpine".
Cyril Shokoples MG
Rescue Dynamics
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.