few weeks with a group of guides from Yamnuska, and wanted to pass on
our general observations regarding a noticeable increase in rockfall
events and related hazard right now at most rock climbing sites in
the Valley.
All of the intense, saturating rainfall the Rockies have received
lately seems to have undermined a lot of slopes below and above local
crags and dramatically loosened things up in general. From my
observations, rock conditions seem more typical of early season
cragging (e.g. loose holds, perched rocks, ledge debris and seeping
rock) than late summer, and are overall worse than I can recall seeing.
We have observed numerous rockfall events, and even at heavily used
areas there seems to be an exceptional amount of loose material lying
in wait for the right impetus to bring it down. In some cases, there
have been very substantial hazards encountered on usually immaculate
routes. As winds pick up and warmer temperatures dry out whatever
remaining material is presently gluing things in place, we expect
this to get worse before it gets better. The forecast for another
storm cycle into the weekend probably won't help things in the near
term either.
Play safe!
Carl Johnston
ACMG Rock Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.