ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Archive: 2008

Wednesday, December 31, 2008

[MCR] Extremely unusual conditions

Hi everyone,

It seem like many reports of avalanche involvements, close calls and even fatal accidents are increasingly indicating the serious consequences related to the unstable and avalanche prone snowpack affecting southern BC this year.

I have been skiing in the southern coast mountain over the last few weeks with a group of several other experienced guides. As in many other parts of southern BC the snowpack here is thin, weak and abnormally avalanche prone due to a small layer of soft facetted crystals poorly bonded to an early December rain crust below it. Due to a steady westerly flow and accompanied precipitation there is now between 50 to 100cm of recent snow forming a denser slab just above this weak layer in our area. As many other coastal or southern interior areas we have observed many natural avalanches up to size 3 on this weak layer. Our guiding team has not seen such dangerous conditions in this area before and there fore we are using extreme caution while out in the field. We think these very unusual conditions will deteriorate through the holidays and persist for most of the winter.

In the field, we have been skiing on very low angled terrain(less than 20 degrees) while trying to eliminate any exposure to potential surrounding avalanche terrain. Even with all our experience based precautions, we have been able to remotely trigger numerous avalanches, purposely or not, from a safe distance on nearby terrain. These conditions are increasingly challenging but we still feel its possible to enjoy the backcountry during the holidays. We recommend using extreme caution while in the backcountry and minimizing (if not eliminating) your exposure to potential avalanche terrain.

The canadian avalanche association has already issued several warnings recommending recreationists, experienced or not, to stay well away from any avalanche terrain. We strongly support their warnings and hope this message is helpful to anyone planning a trip in the backcountry.

Happy Holidays!

David Lussier
Mountain Guide
ACMG/IFMGA

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[MCR] FLute Whisler Backcountry

Was skiing in the Flute ridge area today. Had to ski down Symphony chair to access the backcountry because of WB’s AC program as in full swing. Whistler looked a bit like a war zone with slides in some unusual start zones, as well as the normal places. Many of the recent slides have gone down to the facets and Dec 6 crust.

Skiing up Lesser Flute was work sometimes, occasionally the ski pen was near waist deep, in the trees. Foot Pen at 1700m was 1m. No whumps, but others are reporting lot of settlements. Creeks at this elevation are filled in reasonably. There is about 1.2m of snow now at 1700m and in the alpine there is quite a bit of windslabbing. I went to tree line and skied down in good quality snow. But took it really easy and stayed off bigger avalanche terrain angled slopes. Things feel ripe to slide and there is lots of evidence of past activity. I did not see any naturals today – they must be waiting for a trigger.... There is a report that Cowboy ridge had a very substantial slab avalanche that broke across the slope for many hundreds of meters and was up to 1m deep.

In conclusion skiing is quite good, you really have to work for your turns, but if you venture into avalanche terrain you might just be playing a very serious game of roulette.

Time for a drink, Happy new year,

Dave Sarkany

Ski Guide

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

[MCR] Diamond Head/ Paul Ridge, South Coast

Greetings West Coasters,

Considering the limitations of terrain that I would want to be on right now, we opted to give bigger areas a miss today and do a short day tour up at Diamond Head/Paul Ridge Area, thinking there could me more options for skiing low angle terrain.

Just below the high point of Paul Ridge, the total snowpack depth was around 160 cm . We decided to have a look in the snow. About the sketchiest I have ever seen it up there. At the site we dug our profile, we found 110 cm of mostly unconsolidated snow sitting on 15 cm of ballbearing facets above the hard crust that was buried in early Dec. We also found a (almost hidden) 3-5mm surface hoar layer down 75cm below the snow surface. The surface hoar layer sheared easily with a ‘pop’, and the facet layer was so weak it was almost falling out of the pit.

Even though the trail breaking was not difficult (skis only penetrated 25 cm), stepping out of the skis had us sinking almost up to our waists.

Heavy ‘Whumfs’ reverberating in the snowpack near ridgetop had me really thinking about the terrain I wanted to be on. Sure enough, we were able to trigger a LARGE size 2 avalanche (from jumping on safe terrain above the slope, after I had someone watch from the side to make sure there was no skiers/boarders below). It was at the top of the widest bowl off the north side of Round Mountain (NE Side) for those that know the terrain. The avalanche was 60-85 cm deep, 60 m wide, running 150m down almost to the flats. Even though the failure plane was on the surface hoar, I think it would have stepped down to the facets and crust if the terrain had been bigger (wider and longer bowl), or the slab properties a bit stiffer.

There was plenty of blower pow to be had up there, but have to admit there are many lines up there I wouldn’t touch today.

Many groups heading into the Elfin Lakes hut for New Years. Good time to use the designated ‘winter route’ with the orange stakes.

Keep in mind this weak snowpack is very unusual for the Coast, and is not likely to heal quickly. Stick to low angle terrain, well away from avalanche slopes above. If you are not really sure what this means, or have difficulty holding back when you see those big powder lines, it might be best to enjoy the in-bounds slopes for a while.

Brian Gould

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Musical bumps

Went for a tour on the N side of Flute yesterday. A largely overcast day
with moderate SW winds and a few "exquisite" sunny breaks in the
afternoon. The skiing in the upper alpine was quite wind affected and not
particularly great. As you approach tree line the surface conditions
improved along with the skiing.

Safe to say that we skied conservative lines and tip-toed our way around.
As reported by many the upper snowpack is quite interesting if not a
little unusual for the Coastal region. 15cm of low density (F) new snow
over a 15cm (4F) slab over 10cm of cold low density (F-) facets all
resting on the December 6th crust. Though this "sandwich" made for
descent skiing it also made for very challenging uptracks as skies
continually collapse through to the December crust.

We experienced regular whumping especially in thin rocky areas and any
area peppered with small trees. Though there have been numerous reports
of Skier accidental and remotely triggered avalanches we were unable to
ski cut any features and saw little natural avalanche activity.
Whistler/Blackcomb did produce numerous size 1-2 avalanches from ski
cutting on specific terrain features and from explosive control work

With forecasted precipitation and wind for the remainder of the week I
would expect the load and slab properties in the upper snowpack to
dramatically increase along with the hazard level. It is very likely that
the facet layer overlaying the December crust may be with us for a very
long time.

Keith Reid
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Whistler BC
keith@reid.bc.ca
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Sunday, December 28, 2008

[MCR] Glacier Gulch ice

The ice in Glacier Gulch on Hudson Bay Mountain near Smithers is now
well formed and fat throughout. I climbed the CPC (far right) falls and
the Middle Falls during a course. I cut and broke a trail to the Far
Right which is a pleasant 120 m grade III. The Middle Falls are quite
steep this year. The ice is still hard and brittle from the deep freeze.
We observed several size 2 natural avalanches over and beside the Right
Falls within one hour of wind starting to transport snow aloft. There
was no recent activity on the Left Falls, but I saw a significant
fracture line about 800 m above it. Both those lines and also the Left
of Left are prone to natural avalanches right now and I recommend to
leave them alone until things stabilize thoroughly.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rogers Pass

Skiing in the Pass the past two days with an epic deep powder day today. Trailbreaking off the old tracks was up to your hip on your uphill leg. The skiing was too deep for turns on the lower angled slopes. Below 1500 m things are still very bony though and it takes a bit of time to work your way through these areas.

40-60 cm of snow now overlies the old surfaces of facets and wind crusts. Where we were skiing in Connaught Creek at treeline this storm snow was not wind affected and we did not see any cracking or hear any whumpfing. There was wind at higher elevations though and we limited our exposure to alpine slopes above us.

There was avalanche debris out of Frequent Flyer that hit the uptrack, looked like within the past 24 hours, probable loose snow, size 1.5. There was also an unconfirmed report of a larger avalanche out of Cheops 1 that dusted the uptrack later in the day.

Good skiing but time to tread carefully, if any wind or warm temps gets at this new snow there will be a widespread slab instability.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

Saturday, December 27, 2008

[MCR] Kootenay Pass

Touring at Cornice Ridge on Boxing Day the snowpack was delightfully more cooperative than further north near Nelson. The late Nov. rain crust was absent right from the car at 1774m. Snow depths were in the 90 - 115cm range below treeline with hard windslabs on the wind exposed Cornice Ridge. The east aspect off the summit was as thin as 50cm where recent reverse winds had reduced the coverage.

The snowpack was mostly supportive making for some great turns with a ~30cm ski pen although the facetted base offered the occassional surprise sinkhole where unseen burried objects lay below. Tree wells were particularly hungry.

No avalanche activity was noted other than surface sluffs in the new snow although visibility was limited.

Whitewater reported 17cm overnight with both chairs open and it continues to fall in Nelson as I write.

Happy turns,
Shaun King
Alpine Guide / Asst. Ski Guide

[MCR] Whistler, Duffy and Bridge River Ice

Drove North Yesterday and saw the following:

Lots of snow.

Entropy looked in (was climbed a week ago)
Psycho Pillar was thin, unprotectable, but looked like a great mixed climb on TR
The climb on the cliffs across from Gott creek was in and looked fat
Rambles were fat, Shreddie non existant
Carlsberg looked climbable and some steps on it made it easier looking than normal in the sense of climbing....protecting it looked epic if possible
Syncronicity looks really fat at the top but thin where you get on it at the top of the gully
there is a great looking Grade 3 gully on the south facing wall near at the fish hatchery lillooet

The Bridge River Canyon is the driest I have seen it in several years.
Capricon looked fat
couldn't see silk degrees
Gift and Theft aren't even starting to form
Shriek of the Sheep curtain doesn't touch down but the lower pitches are in
Nightn Gail was just a bunch of ribbons.

watch for avalanche hazard and snow drifts on the road on the Goldbridge Road

Conny Amelunxen
MG ACMG/IFMGA

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Friday, December 26, 2008

[MCR] Whistler backcountry conditions

I was out touring today in the Flute/Oboe area. Things are changing quite quickly out there. We had about 5-10 cm's of new snow during the day with a constant moderate wind from the SE. This brings the total storm snow on the 22/12/08 interface to about 30-40cms. Most slopes at ridge top are becoming wind effected and are making a nice ripe slab!

Trail breaking was quite interesting with a constant double punch into the facets and rotten snow below.

We had a remotely triggered size 2 soft slab on the west side of Oboe at ridge top (2200m) from around 80m away. I also saw a 1.5 off "pigs Fancy " on flute Mnt.

Withe the forcasted snow and high winds I'd say that the snow stability and avalanche hazard could deteriorate quite quickly. At least the rocks are getting covered!

Craig McGee, Mountain Guide
Whistler BC
604 902 0296

craigskibum@yahoo.com

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

[MCR] South Coast Avalanche Hazard

The Canadian Avalanche Centre has put out a special bulletin addressing the avalanche hazard on the south coast. This forecast warns of an up coming storm and warming temperatures for this weekend. It can be found at
http://www.avalancheinfo.net/Media/2008-09/SPAW%20081224%20South%20Coast.pdf.

Precipitation has been locally heavier that predicted in many areas around the South Coast and reports of avalanches on logging and other access roads (as low as 200meters above sea level) are starting to filter in. These avalanches are starting at and below treeline. Precipitation will continue into the early morning, loading slopes further. According to local forecasts, tomorrow (Christmas day), parts of the lower mainland will warm to above freezing and the sun will start to poke through mid morning. Avalanche hazard will climb rapidly if this happens.

Due to localized heavy snowfall in some areas of the Fraser Valley and Sea to Sky corridor, the avalanche hazard may increase sooner than forecasted. It appears the CAC will put out another avalanche bulletin tomorrow for the south coast. Read it here: http://avalanche.ca/CAC_Bulletin_Regions.

I'll be tip toeing around the hills this holiday season.

Happy Holidays,

Conny Amelunxen
MG ACMG/IFMGA

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Tuesday, December 23, 2008

[MCR] Squamish Ice/ Shannon falls falling down!

Spent the day in the Shannon Falls areas climbing "Klahanie Column". Like Connie says its IN and in good shape. Although its beaten out and has good steps in the steep sections, its still vertical, chandeliered and it could be difficult to get good pro if you weren't comfortable hanging out in that kind of terrain for a while.

There were many parties out to climb Shannon falls, it was a bit of a Gong show at the base in the AM. As the day went on so did the amount of water pouring out of the falls. It was a bit disconcerning seeing so many parties fumbling at the base and on the first few pitches with all that wet ice above them. Just as the last party (of the ones that didn't retreat) was completing pitch 2 a major ice/slush and water avalanche broke off from above them and hit at least one of them!! To our amazement they were still there when it all ended! While we were there we watch a lot of ice coming down throughout the day. We talked to one of the climbers who climbed it earlier in the day and he called it a "Death wish!"

With fore casted warming temperatures I would imagine that conditions on this climb will only get worse as the week goes on. I'm sure many of the other climbs that are in will still be good for the next few days.

Craig McGee, Mountain Guide

craigskibum@yahoo.com

[MCR] Whitewater slack country Kootenays

Nelson area snow fall amounts seem historically low for this time of year.

Whitewater ski resort is reporting 78cm at the top of the Summit chair and the Silver King chair is not yet open. I poked my nose out into the openings of the Goat slide path and found that the 20-25cm of low density snow that sat over the Nov. 29? rain crust in the trees had slabbed up or almost blown away completely. HS was in the 50 – 60cm range with well developed facets that reminded me of a typical Rockies snowpack. Another crust sits about 30cm off the ground.

I found 10 good turns at ~1950m in a tree sheltered area where the old wind slab was supportive beneath new snow. After this the thin breakable crust made for challenging skiing.

Coverage looked sufficient on the Whaleback of Evening Ridge but the low elevation alders were so exposed, it didn't seem worth the trip.

Praying for snow,

Shaun King

Alpine Guide / Asst. Ski Guide

[MCR] Squamish ice

It looks like we have a few more days cold weather so here is what I have seen and heard over the last few days.

Squamish has 10-20cm of snow at sea level and almost 40cm at the top of the Chief. The sea to sky is mostly clear with slippery sections from Van to Squamish and winter driving from there north. Temperatures approached 0 degrees yesterday for the first time in almost two weeks. Sun aspect climbs were starting to detach.

There is ice across from Murrin Park. I havn't been there personally but people have been climbing there.

Shannon Falls is in and climbable on the right side. You must cross the river a number of times (easy) so expect to get sprayed. Thin in places and don't take the ice bridges for granted. Open pools would make rappelling hard. The left side of the falls looks thin and hard to protect but not much more than WI4.

Klahanie Column is in and looks like it spent a week in the Rockies getting beaten out.

Olesen Slabs are in as well as several FA's that have gone up in this area in last week.

The Dream saw a visit two days ago, although climbable, it did't look to protectable.

Rainy day woman (what is visible above the trees from the road) looks thin but climbable.

White Dyke is mostly rock.

Moving to Montana has a neat looking smear coming out of it (FA?)

U Wall drool doesn't reach the ground.

Diedre has no ice on it worth climbing.

There is some ice on the ramp to the right of the Sherrif's badge.

The obvious ice line on the Squaw was climbed about 4 days ago.

The bluffs have more ice than they have had in decades. Alice on Ice is fat and has mixed possibilities on both sides. There are about five 20-30m pitches to climb on the walk up to Pixies Corner, all in the WI 3 range. I know it is tough not to, but please don't scratch up or bang pins in to summer climbs.

There is lots of ice across Squamish river, however the sides of the river are all iced over and ice flows on the river make the canoe crossing pretty daunting.

Conny Ameunxen
MG ACMG/IFMGA

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Friday, December 19, 2008

[MCR] Rogers Pass

We were skiing in Rogers Pass the last 3 days. Lots of wind effect in the upper edge of treeline and alpine elevations and below treeline still has poor coverage over the ground roughness so there is a bit of a narrow band where there is good skiing. If your powderhound nose is keen enough you can sniff out some good turns though. What you are looking for are treeline glades that are not too open and that are not north facing (to avoid the wind effect), and below treeline glades that are rather open (in the forest the trees have filtered too much snow and there isn't enough coverage, you will hit lots of wood and the occasional rock). However, below treeline you have to avoid glades that have alder in them, you will need a machete to get through the alders.

Avalanche hazard: Lots of wind crust and some areas of windslab, and it is difficult to distinguish between the two. Avoid the bad skiing and you will avoid the windslab hazard. In non wind effected areas we didn't dig as it was too cold to stop moving but we saw no evidence of avalanche activity, no cracking or whumpfing, and had no results with ski cutting on small steep slopes. We kept our exposure to complex terrain to a minimum though because we didn't have a lot of information.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

[MCR] Duffey lake/ Marble Canyon ice climbs

Drove through the Duffy lake area yesterday and this is what I saw. If its not mentioned here it was probably not "IN"as I took a good look around.

In the early morning light "Entropy "looked in? "that could mean anything in that light"

Looked like you could scratch up something in the "Syco pillar" area (mixed routes only)

No ice at all on "Blue moon on rye"

"Dream Cather" looked like it would be climbable

Looked like most of the regular climbs at the "Rambles" were in, however they looked quite thin compared to normal.

Carl berg was NOT in

The first pitches of "loose lady" were in. I tried to see the upper pitch, but could only see the ice on the last few feet, so?

"Synchronicity" was in, however the first few feet of the first main pitch looked very thin or rock .

"Honeyman falls" looked climbable, but there was a hole with open water in the middle up top.

Most of the climbs in Marble canyon looked climbable. The lower wall had lots of ice, but thin in places. The top pitches on "Icy BC looked climbable, but very hard"

It was -22 at the Rambles and -30 in marble canyon...

All in all I was surprised to see very little free water that could freeze in these temps. It looks like it must have been very dry up there fopr the past few weeks, hopefully it warms up at bit!

Have Fun,

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

cell 604 902 0296

craigskibum@yahoo.com

Monday, December 15, 2008

[MCR] Howsons 15 Dec 08

Today we shovelled out the lodge and got it ready for the season. There
are 140 cm of snow at the lodge (1030 m). At 1470 m on the Solitaire
Meadows, there are 260 cm of snow. We dug a test pit and found moist
snow at 0 degrees 130 cm down. The air temperature was -18 and the snow
surface -22. There are many crusts embedded in the moist snow, but we
only found shears in the upper layers. There has been some reverse
loading out of the E the last few days and we saw a few size 2
avalanches that had run on W aspects. Otherwise, there was older debris
from the rain event last week and one size 2 on a steep rocky south
aspect. Ski cutting of steep and often windloaded pockets had very small
results. We think the stability is fair in the alpine and good below,
but our observations are still limited.

[MCR] Monahsee mountains - Perry River - Dec.10-14-08

Here is some information on conditions I observed while working at a Cat skiing operation located above the Perry river (@20 km. north of the Trans Canada on the western side of the range) in the Monashee mountains.

Snowpack varies between 80-100cms. below 1800m. and 130-180 above that elevation – significantly less than Rogers Pass which is unusual for this area. That said the recent storm snow from the weekend of Dec.6 & 7^th (@80cms.) as well as the further 20cms. that fell on Dec.12^th has settled out quite a bit and helps to keep you off the low season hazards. Windslabs now exist in exposed treeline and all alpine terrain after the wind event that occurred on the night of Dec.12^th. The other main issues are the Dec.1 crust down 60-80cms., which is not producing any significant results in snowpack tests, and the Nov.21 crust/facet combo down 80-100cms., which though it is still not producing much in test results, lingers as the main issue in the back of my mind.

Avalanches: We had no skier triggered activity over the period though the snowcat did trigger several intentional avalanches (to size 3) by pushing large cornices/piles of snow over the ridge onto a steep west facing piece of alpine terrain that, based on the depth of the fractures, appeared to run on the deeper crust (though we didn’t have an opportunity to investigate the failure plain). We also did some explosive control that produced a couple of size 2.5 avalanches out of wind affected alpine features.

So for now the skiing is good at and below treeline where the wind didn’t get at things but watch out for the shallow snowpack hazards and give caution to larger features at treeline especially if they have seen any wind affect.

Best of the season to all,

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rogers Pass, Dec 13/14

Skied in Balu drainage on Saturday and Bostock on Sunday. -25 air temperature with ridge top winds blowing north at 50 km/h. Constant work to stay warm.

The snow is punched in the alpine and on most exposed places at treeline. In good light you can see giant waves of windblown snow (sastrugi) on the surface from kilometers away. The north wind has reverse loaded things and pushed drifts into strange places.

Profile at treeline in Balu (2100m) showed 80 cm of recent storm snow on top of the Dec 1 crust which is decomposing here and looked weak. No test results on that crust but I wouldn't trust it. Profile in Bostock at 2100m showed 100 cm of storm snow on the Dec 1 crust which is thinner and not as facetted. Still a feature to watch but not as bad here (total snowdepth 200cm). Numerous shears in the storm snow as well as a surface windslab on all exposed areas. However, my sense was that the -25 has mostly taken the punch out of the snowpack and I did not observe any avalanche activity in two days. Avoided steep starting zones where the wind had been (and the skiing was terrible!)

Good skiing in sheltered glades at treeline on S and W aspects.

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide

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Sunday, December 14, 2008

[MCR] Squamish ice conditions/Rainy day woman

Bruce Kay and I went looking for ice in Squamish today after hearing rumors of some climbable routes.

We didn't find that much that was actually thick enough to climb and we looked around quite a bit. We did manage to climb Rainy day woman. The climb is in quite good shape although the last pitch wasn't in yet. The first pitch was very thin as usual (1/2- 2 inches thick), however it took excellent small to med cams and wires off to the side in the crack. The second pitch took 13cm screws and a med size cam. Looks like things are about to get really good!

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

cell 604 902 0296

craigskibum@yahoo.com

Saturday, December 13, 2008

[MCR] Whistler/Blackcomb backcountry conditions

Went for a tour out to Decker Mountain today. Surprisingly there is a fair bit of ski-able slopes out behind Blackcomb at the moment, although there are alot of hazards out there too.

The only really good places to ski are were there was some snow left over from last winter or on glaciers.

All the glaciers we skied on today (Decker and Spearman Gl.) had many open crevasses and you had to be quite careful were you went. I sure wouldn't want to be out there in a white out! We probed around a fair bit and found an average of 120cm's over the summer firn. With the high winds and rain we had earlier in the season it has made a fairly good "feel" on the glaciers, but don't be fooled 120cms over a crevasse bridge really isn't that much. When heading out on any glacier right now I'd make sure I had a rope and harness and a long probe for probing.

We also notice quite a bit of wind effect throughout the alpine, some wind slabs that were developing were over 1m thick! We had several settlements throughout the day and saw one skier triggered slab that I would have been wanted to be caught in.

Of course one of the biggest hazards out there right now are the rocks. Not just for the hazard while skiing, but also if you were caught in any size of avalanche that ran though these hazards it would not be good.

There is some good skiing out here, but just be careful and prepared for these not so normal times.

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
cell 604 902 0296
craigskibum@yahoo.com

[MCR] Dec 13: Haffner Creek, Kootenay National Park, Canadian Rockies

Saturday, Dec 13: Haffner Creek, Kootenay National Park, Canadian
Rockies

The ice was voicing dissatisfaction with the Arctic weather at Haffner
Creek today. All day groans and pops were emanating from the pillars
and daggers. Surprisingly, nothing spontaneously broke but a few of
the snapping sounds were loud enough to make us think they were close
to coming down on there own. We refrained from climbing anything that
was not well supported and hooked out. It is worth the reminder that
sub -30 C temperatures are not ideal for ice climbing. The ice is very
cold resulting in fragile pillars and brittle bulges that are primed
to explode. Definitely avoid hanging out under and climbing on free-
hanging icicles and skinny free-standing pillars (even on top-rope).

Sean Isaac
Assistant Alpine Guide

Sunday, December 7, 2008

[MCR] Stanley Headwall/Nemesis

Back to Nemesis today.

About 20 cm storm snow in the early morning, with an additional 20 cm
throughout the day for a total storm snow amount 30-40 cm, low density.
Total height of snowpack is around 70 cm at treeline. Snow rates today
were between 1 and 3 cm/hr.

Winds were mainly calm with just enough breeze at times to send torrents
of light spindrift down on our heads throughout the day. Otherwise, no
avalanche activity observed or heard, but visibility was quite poor for
the most part.

It's getting to the point where skiing up Stanley Ck is viable and might
be worth considering if can deal with the risks of early season hazards
and a weak base off the track. It would sure be a challenge with climbing
packs and leather boots right now. We walked in, which still works OK but
it might be worth considering snowshoes if skiing seems a little too scary
right now. 2 1/4 hrs moderate trailbreaking to the base, 1 1/2 hr back
down. A party on Suffer Machine today used skis for access and some hikers
came in on snowshoes.

The climbing was the same as the last time I was there a month ago: fat
ice with good pro, in excellent condition, though plastered with snow
right now.

>From what I saw of the "French Bench" approaching French Reality last
weekend (steep, facetted, shallow snowpack above cliffbands) I would
approach this area with caution right now, especially if it seems like it
got any wind or slabbing going on.

Hard sledding getting the car out of the parking lot! Bring a shovel if
you plan to head there tomorrow in case the plow doesn't make it.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Saturday, December 6, 2008

[MCR] Green Gully, Mt. Hunter, Rockies

Climbed Green Gully today which is located on the west boundary of Yoho Park, above the Trans Canada Highway. Park at a pullout (road) , just west of the Yoho Park sign. Walk up the right edge of a clearcut, onto the boundary cut line and follow it (sort of) to the route. Its in a deep gully in a rockband - scope from the Beaverfoot road.

Lots of short steps that were wet and thin but easily climbable. One pitch that was about grade 3 maybe, but otherwise lots of easy grade 2/3 steps with hiking between. Probably climbed about 10 steps like this.

10 cm fresh low density snow in the area and a total of about 20 cm in the forest leading up to the route.

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide
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Thursday, December 4, 2008

[MCR] Reality Check

This climb is now in good shape with several lines that go at grades IV
and V. We put a rope sling around two good trees at the top so there is
an anchor for the season.

[MCR] Kananaskis Country Beacon Basin

I response to a few question we have received I wanted to let everyone know that the Beacon Basin training park in Kananaskis Country (located at Burstall Pass trailhead) is not set up yet to do insufficient snow cover. As soon as it starts to snow more (hopefully soon) we will have it up and running for public use. Information about when it is operational will be posted on the Kananaskis Country Avalanche Bulletin Page so stay tuned.

Mike Koppang

Kananaskis Country Public Safety

403-678-5508 x223

This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail.

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

[MCR] Whistler/Blackcomb near country

We've been teaching an avalanche course the past few days based in Whistler. Below 1900 m we don't have enough snow to avalanche. Above that elevation there are isolated pockets with above threshold snow depth in areas with a rough ground surface. On the glaciers and other smooth ground we are seeing 75-100 cm of snow. The snowpack consists of a series of crusts with some weaknesses between them but our tests indicate it is quite stable. We have not seen any avalanches in the past few days.

Travel conditions are dust on breakable crust. Below 1800 m you are probably going to be walking. You cannot access snow covered terrain without the lifts.

Think snow!

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.alpinism.com

[MCR] Rogers pass ski conditions

No technical info here, but we went up for a quick burn a bit above Balu pass towards peak 8812. Surprisingly the skiing above 6000 ft was EXCELLENT! Really! The groups coming down the south bowl above looked like they were enjoying themselves too. At around 7000ft there was 20+ cms of new snow with no wind effect, above 7000 there looked to be 10cms more than this0. Below 6000ft full body armor is suggested , along with ice skates for the trail. Have Fun. Craig

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
craigskibum@yahoo.com
cell 604 902 0296

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

[MCR] Glacier Gulch

John Kelson and I climbed the Right Hand Falls in Glacier Gulch today.
After plus 7 degrees and heavy rain on Sunday, temperatures have dropped
to a more congenial -9. The ice is still a bit thin in places and there
is a lot of water running, but it's climbable at a comfortable grade III
with little fear of avalanches. The right hand variant is thin, wet and
has a lot of daggers. The other lines are almost there.

Monday, December 1, 2008

[MCR] Goat Traverse and Yam Area (1 Dec)

Out climbing in the Yamnuska area today where I found some fairly good rock conditions (for December). For those tired of lining up for limited ice or root skiing while we wait for winter to properly arrive, here's what I saw.

The clouds and precip clogging the valley around Canmore throughout the day were blown off the Goat Area by strong-to-gale force winds at ridge-top, so there was only the slightest dusting late in the day. Since the system was still parked to west of the range-front at day's end, with any luck these conditions might linger for a bit.

Goat Peaks Traverse

In spite of the somewhat plastered look of all the upper east faces, the traverse across the Goat Peaks was surprisingly dry and snow-free with a little routefinding. Only the final 50m descending to the col at the Yam shoulder had unavoidable snow (no ice) and was trickier downclimbing. If you haven't done it, this traverse is a good "fitness" day and although mostly a lot of scrambling, the second half has enough exposed/techy ridge bits and routefinding to keep the climbing interesting. Round trip from Graymont is 5-10 hours via Yam (incl. ~7km on the road).

Coire Dubh

From a (good) distance, the bottom ice looked almost 'in', but the top is definitely still a rock climb.

Yamnuska

Climbing on the west end of Yam was snow and ice-free and quite pleasant (again, for Dec.) The backside (what I saw of it) and west descent trail were snow-free, and the rest of the face looked quite dry.

Carl Johnston

ACMG Rock Guide

Saturday, November 29, 2008

[MCR] Rogan's Gully and Cascade

Climbed Rogan's today. It was reasonably dry but still quite thin in
most places. The initial and final pitches are in normal WI2 shape but
a but thin to protect.
There are a few mixed steps in the middle of the climb that are short,
but hard to protect and a bit tricky. There was zero snow at the start
or the finnish of the climb.

The final pitch on Cascade was falling apart as we walked past it on
the way down. I would leave this climb alone until it cools off and
fattens up.

Rob Owens
Alpine Guide

www.robowensguiding.com
www.rockies-ice.com

[MCR] Reality Check Hudson Bay Mountain

Scott MacMillan and I played around on Reality Check today. It is in and
climbable, with some wet areas and few daggers, some of which we
removed. Most lines are quite steep this early on, but the ice is thick
enough for good pro. -0.5 degrees at noon and quite a bit of water
running. The ski hill is now open with fast and easy access.

[MCR] Louise Falls etc.

I took a leisurely stroll to Louise Falls yesterday in the pm. Getting to the cave at the base of the pillar looks climbable, however, as usual, exposed to ice fall from daggers hanging off the cave. The pillar is in but sporty looking. The top pitch out to the tree looks very thin and chandeliered. A party of three descending on the lake trail reported good conditions on Linda Ice Nine with the last pitch being quite chandeliered.

Cheers,

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide (ACMG/IFMGA / UIAGM)

www.ontopmountaineering.com

Thursday, November 27, 2008

[MCR] Weather information

I am happy to report that the data from the mountain remote weather
stations in Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks is now available on
line with our partner, the Canadian Avalanche Association. Please be aware
that the data you will see is raw data that has not been manipulated once
downloaded from the dataloggers. This means that if it appears to be
gibberish, it probably is. Keep in mind that this data comes from
electronic and mechanical equipment run by a 12 volt battery and a solar
panel in a harsh environment.. Data is transferred by radio and phone
modems. They do not always work and erroneous information is not uncommon.
Don't plan your outdoor wardrobe with this information. There are
currently still a few details to work out in the presentation on the
website. The most glaring one at this time for each reading is the
displayed date and time. Bookmark the page below and scroll to the bottom.

http://avalanche.ca/CAC_Weather_Images

Marc Ledwidge
Manager, Mountain Safety Programs
Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

[MCR] (no subject)

Spent the last two days ski touring at Roger's Pass.

Overall ski quality was good to excellent, but snow coverage below 1800m is still seriously lacking. Nov 24 was spent in Hospital Bowl and Ursus Trees. At 2400m air temp was -5 and ski pen was 15 to 25cm. Though there was some minor wind effect, skiing was excellent. On steeper SW aspects there was a 1 to 3 cm thick sun crust in the Ursus Trees area. Compression tests gave consistent moderate to hard results down 25 to 35cm.

On Nov 25 we traveled through Bruin's Pass to ski the glacier on the north side. Overnight surface hoar had grown up to 10mm below tree line. On the glacier variable wind effect has resulted in everything from ruffled snow to a thin, breakable, 4F wind crust that was still very skiable, though not quite as fun. Hs at 2400m was 220cm and air temp was -6. We descended 8812 Bowl on the way home and despite the abundance of weekend ski traffic, skiing was quite good. Though we observed no recent avalanche activity, there was evidence of widespread avalanche activity (both natural and skiier triggered) on steep lee features to size 1.5 that probably occurred within the last 4 to 5 days.

Have fun out there!

Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Win a trip with your 3 best buddies. Enter today.

Sunday, November 23, 2008

[MCR] Glacier Gulch Ice

In preparation for a course, I checked the ice in Glacier Gulch today.
At 1400 hrs, it was -2.5 and snowing lightly at the base of the falls.
The height of snow was 60 cm. At timberline and above, there were strong
southerly winds and a lot of snow was transported. The ice above the rec
site is very thin and barely climbable. Left of Left is in, but thin,
with avalanche debris at its foot. The Left falls are in, but barely
climbable at the climber's left with a lot of water running further
right. The Middle Falls are almost formed, but thin and there a a few
daggers on the side. The Right Falls are in, but have been scoured by
size 2 avalanches already. The two lines on the right are sketchy.
Giving it another week might be a good idea.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

[MCR] Maligne Lake Bald Hills- Jasper area

Skied up to Bald Hills yesterday to make sure it was as shallow as it
looked around Jasper
About 10-15cm on the ground in the parking lot made for easy travelling.!
Once on the the summer trail turnoff the snowpack is about 25-30cm
with a hard crust in the middle of the pack. This carries skies quite
well and travelling was pretty good. (would not be good on foot)

At 7000ft in the alpine there is about 45-50cm. top 15cm is loose,
then there is a 5cm melt freeze layer (which tends to keep you off
the ground) ....then a weaker layer to ground. Quite a few "whumphs"
in the wind exposed areas up higher....no signs of any avalanche
activity but it does look like there has been a lot of wind.

I skied cautiously down the road but it was actually not to bad...considering.
Early season for sure! but nice to get out.

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide, ACMG
pamann@incentre.net

Saturday, November 15, 2008

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Report for the Rocky and Columbia Mountains November 14, 2008

Winter has finally arrived to the Alpine with approximately 40 cm of new in
the Rockies and approximately twice that amount having fallen in the
Columbias at the upper elevations this week. This new snow has allowed for
some decent travelling on skis on smooth slopes at and above treeline. The
other factor that is helping the travelling is the presence of a series of
strong melt freeze crusts in the lower snowpack. The upper crust in the
series was buried on November 2nd and will become a major bed surface as
the winter progresses. In the Rockies there is only about 30cm of snow over
the crust and the bond is good at present, but a layer of mixed forms and
facets just above the crust that is already forming, and with the current
steep temperature gradient it is bound to get larger and will create the
perfect combination of weak layer over smooth bed surface. Steep lee
features in the alpine should be treated with caution with this barely
baited mouse trap.
The other major hazard is thinly covered rocks, and adventurers in the
slack country adjacent to Sunshine today were seeming to think that their
bones were impervious to them. Take it easy with the marginal early season
conditions!

Access to the Icefields would be arduous, but good travel conditions should
be expected on the ice. Strong winds associated with the snowfall this week
will have covered many of the crevasses, possibly with only very thinly.
Take your glacial travel gear (rope harnesses and prussics) and make good
use of a probe if you are headed that way.

Ski and avalanche condition reports are minimal from the Columbias, but one
party reported excellent skiing at treeline in the Sale Mountain area north
of Revelstoke. Access was by 4 X 4 truck, sled then ski touring. A
snowpack of well over a meter with a well settled base was the extent of
the snow report for this region. Access will be an issue for those headed
out, and it is quite likely that the November 2nd crust will also be found
in the Columbia Mountains.

Ice climbing conditions in the Rockies are getting better daily on north
facing slopes with multiple ascents in Ranger Creek, and of the Replicant
and Nemesis reported. A size 1.5 slab avalanche was noted above Bourgeau
Left hand (not formed) that likely ran on the crust, so the usual cautions
about climbing below steep loaded bowls definitely apply. Be ready for thin
sections with less than ideal screw placements.

This is the last scheduled Mountain Conditions Report for the season, as
the regular avalanche bulletins from Parks Canada and the public avalanche
bulletins from the Canadian Avalanche Center are beginning. Have a great
winter and look for up to date climbing conditions here throughout the
season!

Brad White
IFMGA Mountain Guide

Sunday, November 9, 2008

[MCR] Storm Creek Ice, Kootenay National Park

Nice climbing conditions in Storm Creek today. 'The Shocking Alternative' is in good shape with ice anchors/rappels, a bit stiffer than some others of its grade. No rock gear used but some short screws were useful.

The approach is up the recent fireguard from the highway, left on a fire road near the top to join Storm creek, then bushwhack up the creek into the basin. 2.5-3hrs to the base of the routes. Gaiters useful.

A little more snow than in Stanley Creek (15-30cm) but still little or no avy hazard on the routes at this time. We did see some good sluffing high on the headwall with a snow squall late in the day, and evidence of a large old slab avalanche on a high N aspect. Seems like higher elevations are approaching critical depth for avalanche hazard in this valley.

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.flickr.com/photos/conradjanzenphotos

Friday, November 7, 2008

[MCR] Selkirk Mountains - Rogers Pass - Connaught Ck. Nov.5/09

I went for a quick run up Connaught Ck. on Wednesday Nov.5 (I know – desperate!).

As of Wednesday there was 10-30cm. total snowpack in the valley bottoms – which was basically one big crust with a couple of cms. of now snow over it.

At Balu pass there was 60-80cms. total snowpack, with 10cms. of low density new snow over a thick (30-40cm.) hard crust from last weekend’s warm up. Looks to me as though the crust goes quite high and things in the alpine are filled in enough that they look pretty smooth (except for really bouldery areas).

While the crust is covering up some of the early season nasties, it will likely become a real issue in the alpine and smoother treeline terrain, once there is sufficient snow loading it.

Wednesday night cleared off nicely but before noon on Thursday the next system began to obscure the peaks – snowline dropped considerably and there was more snow than the system on Tuesday (maybe 20-30cms.).

My suggestion is to give things a bit more time (cause now the rocks sticking above the crust are barely hidden) and then approach any open alpine terrain with caution until you get a better handle on what this crust interface is going to do – in other words don’t go jump on Video peak for your first run of the season.

Have a safe and fluffy winter,

Scott Davis

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Stanley Headwall/Ranger Creek Pics

Climbed Nemesis today with John F. Route is in good shape, interesting climbing and good protection. A few cm's of new snow overnight but probably still not enough for any avalanche hazard in the area. Some pics are available at the link below of current conditions in the Stanley Valley and Ranger Creek areas.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/conradjanzenphotos

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide

Thursday, November 6, 2008

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary issued Nov.6, 2008.

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued Nov.6, 2008.

In the Rockies, snowpack depths are still far from threshold values to even consider skiing. In the Columbias, there is enough snow in the alpine for skiing for the very desperate but this will require air support or some serious hiking approaches. Accessing the alpine from valley bottoms is really a non starter. For the desperate without the means for air support, the pleasures of sliding may be available at ski areas with snowmaking this weekend. Don’t bring your new gear.

Ice climbing conditions in the Rockies are typical for this time of year with thin, difficult to protect pitches as the norm. A number of guides have reported “relatively” good conditions on Nemesis, Twisted, Twisted Sister, the Replicant and the routes in Ranger Creek. Information on many other areas is still lacking.

Starting at about 1800 metres in the interior, and in alpine areas in the Rockies, soft slabs ranging from 10 to 30 cm are overlying a melt freeze crust buried November 1. This early season interface will warrant close watch over the next couple of months. Right now, the likelihood of triggering these soft slabs will be of greatest concern to ice climbers.

Precipitation is expected over the weekend but the Avalanche Forecasters at Rogers Pass feel that it is unlikely that there will be enough to make a significant difference. This is quite a different start to the winter from last year for both skiing and climbing. More patience is required.

The last Summary report for the season will be issued next week.

Marc Ledwidge

Mountain Guide

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

[MCR] Stanley Headwall- Nemesis

Had a great day on Nemesis today. It was pretty dry and in WI5ish
shape. Great protection and although the climb did have several large
mushrooms and daggers they were all pretty solid with the current
temperatures.
On average there was about 15cm of snow at the base of the climbs.

Other climbs:
Clucking, Suffer Machine, and French Reality all are in climbable shape.
Killer Pillar is touching and very wet. Right now it is pretty skinny
but my guess is it'll be here for the season and quite fat.
The mixed climbs beyond Killer Pillar all have quite a bit of ice to
finish.
Sinus Gully is formed.
The Ice Cannibal looks ok form the valley bottom.

Cheers,

Rob Owens
Alpine Guide

www.rockies-ice.com

Thursday, October 30, 2008

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary issued Oct. 30, 2008.

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 30th, 2008.

A fine fall week in the Rockies. Cold nights and pleasant days in the sun have set us up for good fall walking down low in the sun, ice climbing up high in the shade and skiing well, you can't win em all.

Waterfall climbing is definitely happening on some North faces around treeline and above. Reports and photos from the East slope of the Rockies are generally very positive and inspiring. It is only late October, so mentions of occasional bad gear, thin ice and running water shouldn't surprise anyone. To quote a report from yesterday "The first pitch of the Terminator looked like it was ready to fall down and was making a few nasty sounds-" Lots of route reports mention no snow and that is a very good thing. If you are feeling solid, brave and have a rack of rock gear, stubbies and talent-things could be good. To paraphrase Abe Lincoln. "Climbers who like that sort of thing will find these routes to be the sort of thing they like."

Glacier travel continues to suffer the early winter insecurities of weak, hard to read bridges. Add in the thin to nonexistent snowpack down low, the grey weather forecast for the Columbias and the idea of getting some early season skiing in at Rogers Pass or the Wapta seems like a really poor idea.

If the forecast is right it could be a fine last weekend to climb some south facing rock on the East slope of the Rockies. It has probably been a bit too warm for secure low elevation ice skating.

Finally, it is always worth watching what your neighborhood snowpack is doing at this time of year. Terrain that already has snowcover is likely to have some weak, nasty layers just above the ground for a good part of the winter. These layers MAY come back to haunt us(it is Halloween) at certain time during the winter and spring. Terrain that is snow free at present will at least start the winter without this basal weakness. I would assume that snowfree terrain is only at low elevations in the high peaks of Columbias and along the Rockies divide. The snow line seems to be a bit higher on the east slopes of the Rockies and through the lower peaks of the Southern Monashees, Selkirks and Purcells.

Let it snow.

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

[MCR] Little Bobby Onsight, Bow Valley Ice

Climbed 'Little Bobby Onsight' with Tim H. today. Route is in reasonably good shape, however the second pitch requires a lot of short ice screws, some of which probably offer more cerebral protection than actual holding power in the thin ice.

We climbed pitch 1 on the far left side, good ice to an old bolted anchor, 45m.

Pitch 2 traversed right onto the steeper thin ice and then up to a decent ice anchor on the far right, 60m+.

Pitch 3 traversed a rock band to the left ice line and up to the top ice anchor, 50m. (We rappelled down the same way)

The approach was a comfortable 2.5hrs. We went directly up the creek after using the Bow Valley Rock approach description to get into the drainage. Start hiking at #20 Wilson Way.

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.flickr.com/photos/conradjanzenphotos

Sunday, October 26, 2008

[MCR] Twisted Sister, Bow Valley Ice

Climbed Twisted Sister today with Tom Wolfe. The route is in good shape, dry rock on the first pitch, thin ice on the lower angled pitches and thick solid ice on the upper pitch. We used quite a few short screws as well as a couple of pitons and rock gear to 0.75". Some of the fixed anchors are showing their age, but backups or ice options do exist. A little over two hours for the approach and no avalanche hazard on the route at this time. A beautiful day to be out in the hills.

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.flickr.com/photos/conradjanzenphotos

Thursday, October 23, 2008

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary issued Oct. 23rd, 2008

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued Oct. 23rd, 2008.

Very little change in the mountains in the past week with one exception. Even though it was a bit warmer this week than last, it has been cool enough for climbable ice to form in the alpine in a few places. Stanley headwall was still wet and thin last weekend but as that is a serious icebox it should be improving. (Improving into steep, thin ice and mixed climbs:). Ranger Ck has climbable ice and almost no snow. David Thompson highway corridor sounds very snow and ice free. There is more ice forming by the minute somewhere but expect a chance of getting skunked and keep a wary eye on the flowing water, the temperatures and how well the ice is stuck to the stone.

Snow avalanches are still most likely restricted to gullies and lee features at treeline and above in the Rockies. The wind has been hammering the snow in the open as usual. Snowline is much more firmly established in the Columbias. A recent report from a lovely Glacier park warden went something like this "Still 10cm at the pass, disappearing to either side. Snowline is firmly down to 1300 meters, with places like MacDonald W Shoulder looking very white. Saw some solar sluffs from terrain above NRC to size 1, but running far downstream."

Glacier travel has not improved at all. Bridges may be slightly easier to see but have not gained any strength.

Skiing is still a desperate act, even in the Columbias.

Check out the first avalanche bulletin of the season from the good folks at Glacier Park. See link below.

http://www.pc.gc.ca/apps/psb/index_f.asp?oqava_bulletin_id=8116

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] (MCR} Bow Summit and David Thompson Country Drive By Obs - Oct 19, 2009

Hey all

If you missed the guides ball in Lake Louise on Saturday, you missed one
heck of a party with folks up until they shut down all the bars. A half
dozen new ACMG full guides got their pin including two more women. Awesome.
Richard and Louis Guy of Calgary were inducted as honorary members of the
ACC. Well deserved honours all round.

But I digress... On to conditions:

Driving home over Bow Summit there was some relatively new snow alongside
the road, looking to be about 5 to 10 cm likely from the Friday evening rain
/ snow event. Still a long way before being skiable for my new skis and some
evidence of wind action along gullies with the usually early season cross
loading having begun already. Unfortunately, some of the cold clear nights
will just facet out the precious white powder before long... In fact, it has
likely already happened.

Everybody seems to be talking about caution in these thin faceted wind
loaded features as a prime topic when discussing ice climbs and the itch to
get out and ski. Everything I saw along the road makes me agree.

Passing Waterfowl Lakes I noticed a lot of drips forming up and dreams of
frozen popsicles danced through my head. Ice in this area should be coming
along nicely but I didn't get a good enough view to mention specifics.
General impression is that there is a good start in the offing. In a couple
of weeks things should be starting to get in shape for the skilled and bold
among us to start laying picks to ice. Some may be ready already. Just keep
those facets and slabs in mind.

Conversely, I had to cry when driving through David Thompson Country. As is
common in this area so much of the year it is bone dry. There is absolutely
NO ice even close to being formed once you get any distance east of
Saskatchewan Crossing. It is in super dry autumn conditions with most
aspects having essentially no snow on the ground. That is bad news for those
climbs that needs some snow above to melt onto the cliffs below.

Even 570 and Two O'clock Falls, both of which are spring fed, are not even
thick enough to call anemic. They are several weeks away from even starting
to form. Best guess would be late November or early December for anything in
this area unless we get a change in weather. No ice forming on Nothing But
the Breast, rather a tiny trickle of water. Didn't see in the gullies like
Kitty Hawk but don't hold your breath! Nothing else in the area showed any
promise for early season ascents. Need more winter weather.

Until then the David Thompson looked like excellent hiking and scrambling
and Lake Abraham is nearly full to the brim, which is a gorgeous sight to
see. Expect some snow or icy bits on shaded trails especially at higher
elevations. Everything with a solar aspect was pretty much green and brown
and grey.

Sounds like the Columbia Mountains got a fair amount of precipitation while
I was driving in the rain and snow and fog from Revelstoke to Lake Louise on
Friday night (Oct. 17).

I am going to cool my jets for a little while yet and let things get into
better shape, including me!

Cyril Shokoples
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.rescuedynamics.ca

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

[MCR] ANOTHER correction

OK I'm losing it. I meant LONE RANGER's second pitch is WI4. Definitely.

And that's the last correction I'm sending, my apologies folks.

Tom Wolfe
ASG/AAG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Chalice and the Blade correction

Oops, correction: Chalice and the Blade 2nd pitch is *WI4*. Definitely.

And not just because I'm not a better ice climber than I was last March.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
ASG/AAG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Ranger Ck

Sunday -- R&D, fat and plastic, good screws and in good shape for the
grade (WI4)

Today (Wed) -- Lone Ranger, Chalice and the Blade - both in WI4 condition,
Lone Ranger is a little stiff for the grade (1st pitch WI3+,40m, 2nd pitch
WI3,60m). C&B a little soft for the grade even on hardest line. Both fat
and plastic with good screws.

Not much snow yet (10 cm?) but deep drifting in gullies and lee aspects.
We were not concerned about avalanche hazard today with the current
conditions on these climbs, but a good dump or two could change things.

[MCR] Early Season Avalanche Message

The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, The Canadian Avalanche Centre, Parks Canada, Kananaskis Country, and Alpine Club of Canada have teamed up this fall to offer some basic public education regarding early season avalanche conditions. It seems that there are close calls or accidents almost every year as we charge out of the gate early looking for ice or snow.

The attached brochure will be distributed via local outlets with the intention of spreading the message to keep your eyes wide open in the early season. Its a unique time of year - some of the best conditions, and some of the worst. You will probably see a a few of our stories in the newspapers too. Please pass on this message among your friends.

Its timely - ice is forming in the Rockies, and the last I checked there was close to 70 cm of settled snow at treeline in Rogers Pass.

Lets have a great start to the winter!

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide

Thursday, October 16, 2008

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for October 16th, 2008.

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 16th, 2008.

We are well into autumn. In the mountains it has been generally COLD the past week. Generally light snow has fallen to and remained at around 2000m along the divide in the Rockies. In the Columbia's there was more snow on average. At 1905 meters on Mt. Fidelity, on the west side of Rogers Pass, there is approx 50 cms of settled snow on the ground. I am going to go out on a limb here and speculate that it may be a bit slippery on Mt. Sir Donald.

Glacier travel continues to be the autumn gamble. I would imagine that the odd piece of benign looking glaciated terrain that feels very casual in the early summer would be fairly terrifying right now. Probe, probe and then probe some more.

Rock climbs are pretty white around Canmore. Perhaps Yamnuska and other south facing cliffs would be fine with a late start and a FAST!!! team. Otherwise, it has been cold till mid morning and the only heat has been from the radiation. The rock is staying cold without the radiation and this isn't likely to change for awhile.(Spring?) The nights are very long, very cold and probably very lonely up high right now. Bataan? At least you would get warm hiking.

The ICE? That is the only useful question right now. Certainly it is likely to be very thin in the dry ranges and below treeline. In the alpine and closer to the divide of the Rockies there is likely to be some "climbable" pitches.

There are 2 big problems to consider if you are dumb enough to October ice climbing.

1.Forget the guidebook grades. They will likely be thin, hard and REALLY difficult to protect. Bring rock gear, especially pins and assume any pitches you scope will be way harder than they look. And, Yes, no matter how much you THOUGHT about ice climbing over the summer, you really haven't gotten any better at it yet.

2. Nasty little early season avalanches. There has been a sad trend of early season avalanche fatalities over the past few years. There is very little snow in the Rockies, but, I am guessing that any gully with climbable ice right now also has a big drift above to feed it and possibly a big cone at the base. Do not forget that these early season drifts are wild cards. None of us have any clear idea of the snow stability in those isolated drifts right now! All we do know is that the consequences of going for a ride there are likely to be fatal. Belay, retreat, reconsider.

Skiing? Hah, maybe in some desperate little patch in the Columbias. Patience, a long winter awaits. Check out the new film "The Fine Line" and make some plans. Winter is coming.

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Thursday, October 9, 2008

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 9th, 2008

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 9th, 2008.

A beautiful, cold day in the mountains. The snow from the past 48hrs varies from 5 to 20cms along the continental divide of the Rockies and throughout the Columbias. There were reports of more significant snow in the columbias over the past weekend also. -10 degrees Celsius at Skoki and -6 in Lake Louise and Canmore this morning. Brrrr!!!

No significant wind reported anywhere in the parks today. However, there was signs of drifting so there was probably wind during the storm yesterday.

There has just been enough snow and probably enough wind to form scattered slabs in the alpine. With the lack of detailed observations, simplicity may be the best approach for this weekend. Avoid the big fat-looking white places!! Remember that the consequences of an early season ride in an avalanche can be especially nasty. Being buried is bad enough but with all the rocks and trees not padded yet, a world of hurt awaits!!

Lots of ice is forming but a wily observer saw nothing climbable in the Bow Headwall, Lake Louise or Rundle area.The alpine is the only hope, but again fresh windslabs and cornices are a concern on the approach slopes and especially in any gullies.

Glacier travel is just getting trickier with each little tinkle of snow. There is enough recent storm snow to hide the crevasses again without any meaningful gain in bridging strength.

Castle, Louis, Bugaboo spires etc are all freshly snow covered. South faces may be climbable on steep rock in a couple of days but the cool temps mean it will be a slow process and there will be some lovely verglas along the way. North facing rock is guaranteed greasy for at least a few days if not months.

It looks like a beautiful weekend to be out in the mountains. Pick your objectives very carefully as the alpine is rough, slippery, white and cold and the nights are getting to be very long. Still, the right project could be a great last adventure before winter becomes the reality.

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

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