Spent the day in the Shannon Falls areas climbing "Klahanie Column". Like Connie says its IN and in good shape. Although its beaten out and has good steps in the steep sections, its still vertical, chandeliered and it could be difficult to get good pro if you weren't comfortable hanging out in that kind of terrain for a while.
There were many parties out to climb Shannon falls, it was a bit of a Gong show at the base in the AM. As the day went on so did the amount of water pouring out of the falls. It was a bit disconcerning seeing so many parties fumbling at the base and on the first few pitches with all that wet ice above them. Just as the last party (of the ones that didn't retreat) was completing pitch 2 a major ice/slush and water avalanche broke off from above them and hit at least one of them!! To our amazement they were still there when it all ended! While we were there we watch a lot of ice coming down throughout the day. We talked to one of the climbers who climbed it earlier in the day and he called it a "Death wish!"
With fore casted warming temperatures I would imagine that conditions on this climb will only get worse as the week goes on. I'm sure many of the other climbs that are in will still be good for the next few days.
Craig McGee, Mountain Guide
craigskibum@yahoo.com