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Wednesday, October 29, 2008

[MCR] Little Bobby Onsight, Bow Valley Ice

Climbed 'Little Bobby Onsight' with Tim H. today.  Route is in reasonably good shape, however the second pitch requires a lot of short ice screws, some of which probably offer more cerebral protection than actual holding power in the thin ice.
 
We climbed pitch 1 on the far left side, good ice to an old bolted anchor, 45m. 
Pitch 2 traversed right onto the steeper thin ice and then up to a decent ice anchor on the far right, 60m+. 
Pitch 3 traversed a rock band to the left ice line and up to the top ice anchor, 50m.  (We rappelled down the same way)
 
The approach was a comfortable 2.5hrs.  We went directly up the creek after using the Bow Valley Rock approach description to get into the drainage.  Start hiking at #20 Wilson Way.
 
Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.flickr.com/photos/conradjanzenphotos