ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 9th, 2008.
A beautiful, cold day in the mountains. The snow from the past 48hrs varies from 5 to 20cms along the continental divide of the Rockies and throughout the Columbias. There were reports of more significant snow in the columbias over the past weekend also. -10 degrees Celsius at Skoki and -6 in Lake Louise and Canmore this morning. Brrrr!!!
No significant wind reported anywhere in the parks today. However, there was signs of drifting so there was probably wind during the storm yesterday.
There has just been enough snow and probably enough wind to form scattered slabs in the alpine. With the lack of detailed observations, simplicity may be the best approach for this weekend. Avoid the big fat-looking white places!! Remember that the consequences of an early season ride in an avalanche can be especially nasty. Being buried is bad enough but with all the rocks and trees not padded yet, a world of hurt awaits!!
Lots of ice is forming but a wily observer saw nothing climbable in the Bow Headwall, Lake Louise or Rundle area.The alpine is the only hope, but again fresh windslabs and cornices are a concern on the approach slopes and especially in any gullies.
Glacier travel is just getting trickier with each little tinkle of snow. There is enough recent storm snow to hide the crevasses again without any meaningful gain in bridging strength.
Castle, Louis, Bugaboo spires etc are all freshly snow covered. South faces may be climbable on steep rock in a couple of days but the cool temps mean it will be a slow process and there will be some lovely verglas along the way. North facing rock is guaranteed greasy for at least a few days if not months.
It looks like a beautiful weekend to be out in the mountains. Pick your objectives very carefully as the alpine is rough, slippery, white and cold and the nights are getting to be very long. Still, the right project could be a great last adventure before winter becomes the reality.
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide