At 1400 hrs, it was -2.5 and snowing lightly at the base of the falls.
The height of snow was 60 cm. At timberline and above, there were strong
southerly winds and a lot of snow was transported. The ice above the rec
site is very thin and barely climbable. Left of Left is in, but thin,
with avalanche debris at its foot. The Left falls are in, but barely
climbable at the climber's left with a lot of water running further
right. The Middle Falls are almost formed, but thin and there a a few
daggers on the side. The Right Falls are in, but have been scoured by
size 2 avalanches already. The two lines on the right are sketchy.
Giving it another week might be a good idea.
--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.