the left side. We tried to get up the right side of the column, but it was
very chandeliered, placements were very weak and protection almost
impossible to get.
We walked around to the second pitch to find better ice quality but
streaming with water over the entire pitch. We bailed out at that point and
drove over to Rogan's gully.
The first pitch is dry and thin, but very climbable. It appeared to have
been climbed several times ahead of us. 10cm stubies and load limiting
runners are required to protect the pitch. Everything above the first pitch
was in good shape with very dry ice. Two climbers came down from the final
pitch and said it was not in great shape.
Cascade was climbed by at least 2 parties today. From our observation below
the climb it was grey in colour at the crux pitch and was far from fat,
blue and thick. I would 'suspect' that it would be detached in places. The
climb will need another couple of weeks to reach it's normal mid winter
condition.
Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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