Nov 7 - Murchison Falls was in good shape, see Jesse's post. Cosmic Messenger and other routes in that drainage looked healthy.
Nov 8 - Hiked into Parallel Falls in K-country. Both routes were all there, though young ice, with much water flowing underneath. The sun was out in full force, warming the detached ice and the (big) terrain above these routes, so we turned tail and ran away. A cold snap and a cloudy day would be essential to look at these routes again. Already, pockets of knee deep, moist snow have gathered on the slope below. For those interested, a much shorter approach is to park at Burstall Pass parking lot. A few minutes from the car where the hiking trail turns left up a small hill, go straight and follow snowshoe trails (some signs) to the drainage leading up left to the climbs. Just over an hour of walking as compared to the 2.5hrs as described in the book.
R&D looked like it is missing the first 10m of ice, bring rock gear, stubbies and a humble attitude. Chalice and the Blade has fallen down, but Thin Universe looks to be in classic shape.
Have patience, and don't be afraid to say no and return another day.
Jason Billing
ARG