We climbed Amadeus this morning via the right hand rock traverse. The rock is is generally free of snow and ice and we used cams and nuts up to yellow (#2) Camalot to protect it. The pin that protects the “belly flop” move is not really pretty but you can place a bunch of stuff right before it. The ice is in solid but slightly airy condition, good screws are possible but sometimes require a little extra cleaning to find consistent ice.
Marc Piché
Mountain Guide