ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 1, 2007.
It has been a bit of strange week in the Rockies. Lots of wind, no snow in some areas, intense snow in others and temperatures swinging well to either side of 0.
Skiing is a non event from all accounts in the Rockies. With almost no snow on the ground in most places and lots of wind in the past two days, keeping your skiis safely inside is a good idea in this neighbourhood. Ice climbers have been having a little more luck, but the early season ice probably demands mid season skills and a willingness to operate without ice screws. Almost all routes right now should be assumed to be way harder and more serious than in it's "usual" condition. The past days wind and scattered snow have also build some REAL windslabs in places. Ice climbers need to be thinking hard about the stability on and above their routes. There have been some vague reports of significantly more snow up the Icefields Parkway and along the Continental Divide. We just don't have enough information at this point to make an informed call on the avalanche danger. My trip planning right now certainly starts with the premise that I am not going anywhere without at least being able to see clearly what the conditions look like on and above my proposed route. The routes in the Bow Valley are mainly snow free and the rock is fairly dry so mixed climbing adventures probably get the highest quality rating right now. Bring LOTS of rock gear and an open mind!!!
It also seems to have been a bit of a dull week in the Columbia Mountains. Mt. Fidelity(1905m- west side of Rogers Pass) got 25 cms of snow yesterday and Revelstoke Mountain resort got 10cms. The 25cms of snow at Rogers Pass was observed to be not bonding well to the crust layer below it. This crust was found on a south facing slope but may be the result of warm temperatures rather than just sun and could be found on all aspects. This is probably the main short term concern at Rogers Pass right now. They have had 100mm of precipitation(that is a lot of mixed rain and snow)in the past week and continue to see the odd BIG avalanche come out of the big alpine faces on Mt. Tupper and Mt. MacDonald.(just east of the summit) At Revelstoke they saw only small recent cornice triggered avalanches.
The snowpack in the Columbias is still shallow. 96cms at Fidelity is pretty skinny for this time of year. Reports of travel conditions down low are still mostly negative(Walking, skiing down with skins, way too many rocks and alders etc) If you can get above 2200m and to North aspects you may find some decent skiing but you will either be very clever with the access or paying for it somewhere. The shallow snowpack has a fair bit of strength thanks to all the warmth and rain but the rock and wood are still terrifyingly close by if you fall.
There may be some good late fall alpine climbing to be had somewhere, but it sure isn't in the Selkirks and I bet it is also pretty scary up at the Columbia Icefields.
Everywhere in the summary region sounds a bit warm for the early part of the weekend. This warmth is going to do absolutely nothing good for the early winter recreation quality.
Could be time to drive to Kitwanga!
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide