Climbed Mt Victoria yesterday from abbot pass. +9 at 0500 at pass. Excellent conditions on the route, with crampons and axe necessary, but only for short section over the sickle. Mt Lefroy, on the other hand, appears in extremely poor condition, with bare black ice, running water, exposed rock and gravel, and constant rockfall. 2 out of the 3 usual ice/ snow gullies are not continuous ice, and the 3rd regular gully on the right, is not far behind as far as melting away. Along with many other ice/ mixed routes in the rockies, extreme caution should be used when selecting a route of this nature with the current conditions of extreme melt, retreating permafrost, and high rockfall probability.
Cheers
Jeff
Jeff Honig
Mountain Guide
Alpine Addictions
Box 1106
Revelstoke BC
V0E2S0
(250)837-2215 (home)
(240)837-1333 (cell)
jeff@alpineaddictions.com