travel conditions on the glaciers, however we did
observe over 4 feet of snow melt in just 5 days, so
things are changing fast.
Travel over the Blackfrier/ Adamant col is quite
difficult on the east side because of a large
Bershrund. I imagine in a weeks or so it will be
almost impassable or at least, very difficult.
All rock routes are free of snow and are dry, even on
North Asp.
Of note:
We climbed the west buttress of the horn and found
that the first two pitches of the second tower are
horrifically loose and one or two #4 BD camalots are
usefull for the first of these.
Also if climbing the the North face of W Blackfrier
bring an adjustable wrench to put the hangers on as
they are not standard 3/8 bolts, but rather Petzle
self drives.
Craig McGee, MG
Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 892 2259
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.