conditions are generally good throughout the Rockies and Columbias.
Cool overnight temperatures this week allowed for good crust formation and
crampon travel in the early mornings was excellent. The snow line is about
2600 metres and the snow is generally well consolidated above this. Alpine
routes in the Rockies such as the North Faces of Athabasca and Fay, the
East Ridge of Temple and the Victoria traverse were all described as in
good to excellent condition with an early start. By afternoon the snow was
becoming weak and postholing was common. Thinner snow and ice routes such
as the west face of Lefroy and the Skyladder on Andromeda are described as
having melted into unpleasant black runnels with a mix of rock and ice and
the threat of rockfall. There is little information from the higher peaks,
but a second hand report of a near miss from an avalanche on Robson that
nearly wiped out a camp on the Dome suggests that avalanching may still be
an issue at the highest elevations. A large icefall from the seracs on the
Balfour High col covered a few hundred metres of tracks. The creeks coming
from the glaciers are still roaring and fording on approach may be an
issue.
In the Columbias, climbers in the Bugaboos, Rogers Pass and the Adamants
all reported good conditions with similar concerns. Travel on thicker snow
and ice was good while thin steep areas are beginning to become problematic
with ice and exposed rock. The bergshrunds are beginning to gape and in
some places making access difficult. Generally crevasses at the lower
elevations are not too much of an issue yet. The Bugaboo Road is reported
as passable and Mt Sir Donald is in great shape.
The forecast heading into the weekend is calling for more hot weather with
the chance of afternoon thundershowers. It may be a good weekend to pick
off that plumb from your list. Get an early start and remember the
potential for rockfall from areas that are still melting out. Plan to be
sipping a cold refreshment before the afternoon cloud build up.
All rock climbs are in good shape but with temps in the thirties and
relative humidities in the teens shade and water will be your biggest
concerns.
Brad White
Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.