lot of the routes in the Jasper area. Warm nights have been contributing to
the snowmelt.
Recent avalanche activity was noted on a Warden patrol in the Mt. Albera area,
with slab avalanches to size 2.5, and 1 meter deep crowns. Numerous isothermal
point releases and lots of rockfall were also observed. The Japanese Route is
still pretty wet and snowy, and is reported to not be in very good climbing
shape yet.
A recent report from the north face of Mt. Athabasca confirms Barry Blanchard's
thoughts from last winter: the crux rock/mixed terrain at the base of the exit
gully is now a few body lengths, and should probably be considered to be more
like a 5.8 rating. The fixed pitons are still there, but as the runout is more
lengthy, it would be good to bring a few nuts and a selection of pitons with a
hammer to augment the fixed pins. It would also be a good idea to place good
ice protection before launching onto the rock.
Skyladder is a mess of dirty ice and lots of rock/mud showing, and is not
recommended. Wait for good snow in the fall or next spring. Lots of crevasses
starting to show on the north glacier on Mt. Athabasca, and there have been
reports of climbers stepping through thin bridges near the ramp route.
The east ridge of Edith Cavell had upwards of 6 parties on it yesterday.
Reports indicate firm snow on the approach to the col, where crampons were
helpful. There is some snow in the gully that you cross at the top of the
first step, and crampons were not required there due to the warm nights but
that will change if we get a good freeze. After that, the ridge is reported to
be dry, and you can easily avoid the cornice and snow on the summit ridge by
staying on dry rock.
Rock routes like Pevril Peak, Meisner Ridge, and Mount Colin are in ultra-dry
condition (bring lots of water!).
Just a reminder that Jasper Park is presently in extreme fire danger, and any
sparks (cigarettes, campfires etc) have a high probablility of becoming a very
large forest fire. Don't be the one to make the front page of the papers!
Jordy Shepherd
Alpine Specialist, Jasper Park
Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.