Well simply put, unless a long (at least 4 days) of hot dry weather hits the Bugs its not really a rock climbing destination at this point.
However quite a few lines are still being climbed, mainly on the Crescent Towers area, but a few adventurers were heading to the Beckey Chouinard Saturday evening.
I hope they have a fun time. My concern would be the raps they looked covered in tones of frozen "stuff".
There is a growing number of mixed climbs to be done on northern aspects. Folks heading into the area should plan on ice or "better mixed" protection for any other lines other than the lower south facing climbs around Applebee campground, pitons are a good idea thuis time of year.
Our plan was to climb the NE Ridge of Bugaboo spire, the low angle icy mixed climbing of the approach pitches and 3 and 4th pitches offered much too time consuming climbing for our party of three. We had success on the McTech Arête on Saturday. Sunday we attempted Ears in between and bailed due to intense snow fall on Sunday.
Conditions are interesting out there, i would say don't be totaly turned off by the seasonal change in the Bugaboos or other. Embrace it and have fun, just prepare for the conditions with more clothing and gear and plan on spending more time along the way!!
Special note: The first bolted anchor of Mctech is missing a nut on the lower bolt. We rapped West side story and noticed that the second rap from the verry top is indicated as a 20m rap in the guide book. Its in fact a 30+m rap to the next bolted station. It would be possible to set an intermediate station half way. However the rap was totally manageable just tight and two 60m ropes would not make in one long rap from the first rap station on the left side of the tower. They would make it if the rap distance was as indicated in the guidebook.
Have fun and get out there!
Cheers
Patrick Delaney
ACMG ALPINE GUIDE
www.Yamnuska.com