[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 30, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 30, 2010 The major event of note is the torrential rains earlier this week. It resulted in saturation of the ground in many places. A major mudflow blocked the TransCanada Highway in Glacier Park and a section of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail above Lake Louise also washed away. As early as this afternoon, after two days of beautiful fall weather another section of this trail washed out above the Plain of Six Teahouse. With the increased flow from the upper Victoria Glacier, the steep saturated morainal material slumped downhill. This condition should be considered where steep loose ground exists and where there is rock fall potential. This was a very unusual rain event. Consequently, unusual rock fall events should not be a surprise. In the Rockies, below 2800 metres, and on sun exposed slopes, rock routes are mostly dry. Castle and Louis (Kain and Gmoser) are looking good. Along the Divide above this elevation, it is snowy. Although, there have been few reports of snow ascents, some of these routes 'may' be back in shape. Evaluating snow stability well before being in the gun barrel, will be the key. We are approaching the early avalanche season and it is easy to get surprised especially since the dry conditions down low allow easy access to the upper peaks. Routes such as the West Ridge of Fay, the Athabasca North Face Bypass or the SE Ridge of Victoria may be 'doable' but will be fairly involved and require rock climbing in crampons. The short snow slopes on these routes will also require careful evaluation. There are second hand reports of guides climbing Assiniboine over the past 2 days. There may be an update on this by the weekend. In Glacier Park, Tupper has dried off and although the Swiss Peaks retain some snow, ascents there will likely be reasonable. On the Sir Donald side, it is quite wintery. There have been no reports from the Bugaboos, but the higher routes are likely done for this year. The lower stuff in the sun may be OK but that is likely it. The forecast calls for two more days of this beautiful weather. This is the time to enjoy some climbing in the sun and take in the impressive display of fall colours. Marc Ledwidge UIAGM Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.