bikes at the end of the road but could easily continue biking along
the trail to the drainage.
The first four pitches were bone dry. -13 C this morning had the ice
under lots of tension but continuous hooks and steps meant no swinging
necessary. The middle pitches were formed over with fresh ice so
swinging was necessary causing some big settlements and shooting
fractures. The last pitch was very wet and a mess of unconsolidated
chandeliers. I bashed a 20cm deep trench up the steep part in order to
get good (but not great) sticks in slightly more cohesive ice. Drilled
a good ice screw at the base of the vertical section then didn't get
another solid screw until almost at the top.
Sean Isaac
ACMG Alpine Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.