amounts of snow along the Icefields Parkway and on the route. The
Weather Network for the Columbia Icefields forecasted up to 10cm of
new snow over the weekend but that never materialized. Our maximum
temperature of -3 C was around 11 a.m. at the base of the final two
pitches. We saw the evidence of the previously reported cornice
failures (huge craters equals good slope test), but all was quiet on
Sunday (Jan 31) due to full cloud cover blocking the solar effect. We
would most likely have changed route objectives if there was no cloud.
Temperature and cloud cover are two factors that now must be
considered on south-facing route with overhead hazard (i.e. avi
slopes, cornices, hanging ice daggers) as the February sun begins to
pack a punch. There is a packed donkey trail through the snow slopes
to turn the Pencil. Good hooks and plastic ice on almost all pitches.
Sean Isaac
ACMG Alpine Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.