temperature was +4 in the shade in the valley and the sun was fully melting
the route.
At 2:00 PM the leader of a one team was struck by a large piece of melting
ice on the second last pitch and fell a long distance sustaining injuries.
After the rescue, the next team continued on up the climb.
If you are planning ice climbs on sun exposed routes when the temperatures
are forecasted to be above freezing, the best plan is to be on the ice
very early and sipping beer by 2:00 PM or more prudently to pick a route
that is in the shade.
Brad White
IFMGA Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.