Guided Extra light today,
The ice was generally dry. We found debris at the base of the route likely from the last mini cycle + some new form the last few days.
The debris appeared to have originated from steep snow that covered the smooth rock on either side of the side walls just above the first pitch. Several more areas on the way up the gully had the same recent debris.
On the way to the last pitch we traveled more debris...on the climbers left there are still preserved wind slab sitting on about 1m of faceted sugary snow. The last pitch was in good shape not too much sign of travel.
We had an early start and enjoyed hard snow most of the way up but by mid day things were getting quite sloppy.
Overall i am operating like we are a full month in advance....early starts and finishes avoiding sunny aspects etc. General spring logic.
Cheers
Patrick
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
403 688 6003
"Strive not to be a success, but rather to be of value."
Albert Einstein
Sunday, February 28, 2010
[MCR] Selkirks, Esplanades Feb. 20 - 27
Spent the past week in the Esplanade Range, NW of Golden, NE of Roger's Pass.15 to 20cm of storm snow fell the past three days with some wind, forming soft slab over Feb24 SH. Feb24 SH dwn 20cm and Feb10 SH dwn 35cm remain reactive with sudden fractures in stab tests, the Feb. 24th layer being very touchy. These layers were responsible for many skier triggered avalanches on N through E asps at all elevations. One skier had a close call on a short steep slope N aspect at 1550 meters elevation. The fast running slide kicked her skis out from under her and she swam for 50M ending up partially buried to waist.
The solar aspects - S & E were not as twitchy, but had breakable crust under the new snow, so did not ski as well.
The buried Feb. 24 surface hoar deserves respect, and may give us grief for a couple of weeks. It was the cause of many avalanches yesterday (Sat, the 27) in Roger's Pass and other locations in the Selkirks and Monashees. See Larry Stanier's report from Monashees.
Be safe. Russell Lybarger. Ski Guide.
Saturday, February 27, 2010
[MCR] Western Monashees, North of the TCH, west of the Perry River
Big avalanche cycle this afternoon in this neighbourhood. Naturals to size 3 observed running full path. Skied moderately steep south facing slopes, (30cms on suncrust) till it got warm. Being very cautious on North and East facing slopes, especially around treeline and just below. Easily triggered several size 2 slabs with the snowcat and skied very "gently" in the afternoon warm heat wave. These same slabs would be reactive to skier traffic. Snow surface was moist to around 2000m's by the end of today. Should be interesting to see how it skis tomorrow:)
The surface hoar layers from january and february will likely still be a spooky concern for a long while yet.
So, play gently and be patient-surely there are better days ahead!
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
403 609-4352
[MCR] Wapta Icefields
Hello,
I spent Monday through Friday on the Wapta Icefields between the Bow and Balfour Huts. It was difficult to tell exactly how much new snow had fallen in the area due to moderate to strong W - SW winds. On Friday traveling up the Vulture glacier from the Balfour hut ski penetrations ranged from 5-25cm and 40cm slabs were noted on the lee side of Mt Olive. The descent to Bow Hut however had no more than 10cm of new snow. We observed one cornice collapse at the North end of Mt Balfour that triggered a size 2 avalanche to ground as well as numerous loose snow avalanches to size 1 in the area.
Watch out for those wind loaded features and enjoy the little bit of fresh snow.
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG Ski Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide
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I spent Monday through Friday on the Wapta Icefields between the Bow and Balfour Huts. It was difficult to tell exactly how much new snow had fallen in the area due to moderate to strong W - SW winds. On Friday traveling up the Vulture glacier from the Balfour hut ski penetrations ranged from 5-25cm and 40cm slabs were noted on the lee side of Mt Olive. The descent to Bow Hut however had no more than 10cm of new snow. We observed one cornice collapse at the North end of Mt Balfour that triggered a size 2 avalanche to ground as well as numerous loose snow avalanches to size 1 in the area.
Watch out for those wind loaded features and enjoy the little bit of fresh snow.
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG Ski Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide
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[MCR] Rogers Pass
Hi,
Things in the Pass have got way more unstable since my posting last week.
On Thursday and Friday we triggered 9 different slabs from size 0.5 to size 2 on north and east aspects between 1700m and 2200m.
The failure layer was the February 10th surface hoar now buried under 35cm to 50cm of soft slab.
We experienced extensive whumphing and cracking on both days and several of the avalanches were remotely triggered from up to 30m away. Some of slides were also pulling back to slope angles in the low 20 degrees.
Take care out there,
Steve Blagbrough.
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures.
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Things in the Pass have got way more unstable since my posting last week.
On Thursday and Friday we triggered 9 different slabs from size 0.5 to size 2 on north and east aspects between 1700m and 2200m.
The failure layer was the February 10th surface hoar now buried under 35cm to 50cm of soft slab.
We experienced extensive whumphing and cracking on both days and several of the avalanches were remotely triggered from up to 30m away. Some of slides were also pulling back to slope angles in the low 20 degrees.
Take care out there,
Steve Blagbrough.
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures.
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[MCR] Mt. Hector, Lake Louise Area, Rockies
While general coverage on the Hector glacier remains decent @ 2m+ in most areas, there are also numerous exposed crevasses. Of note, some of these are covering over in such a way that they are quite difficult to see from above. There are also a number of very deep exposed holes.
The surface hoar layers are covered by hard slabs of variable thickness and density up high.
Ski conditions down low are rugged.
Josh Briggs
Assistant Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
[MCR] Guiness Gully and Guiness Stout
Guided Guiness Gully and Guiness Stout today, Feb 24 the. The Stout is big and blue. Some Spaniards climbed High Test when we were on the Stout and reported virgin ice, "It is hard to find a virgin waterfall in Canada!"
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
1 403 609 4615
cell 1 403 609 1321
[MCR] Wicked Wanda, The Ghost, Canadian Rockies Front Range (Feb 24)
Wicked Wanda, The Ghost, Canadian Rockies Front Range (Feb 24)
The temperature was at or above zero Celsius all day in the Ghost. Despite warm conditions, the route was bone dry (not even a drip). Both pitches are very hooked out making it feel more like drytooling than ice climbing. My only concern is the massive ice blob/mushroom directly above the bolted chain anchor in the cave. Right now this intimidating feature is well glued to the rock but as the season progresses and days get warmer it is something to consider. I wouldn't want to hang out under it belaying if it was dripping or appeared detached.
Sean Isaac
ACMG Alpine Guide
[MCR] Selwyn Range (Valemount area) Feb 21-23
Just back from 3 days of heli skiing and looking at a lot of terrain
from the air. The Selwyn range is the group of mountains east of
Valemount, on the east side of Kinbasket lake, bordered by Moose Lake
on the other side, and Robson Provincial Park.
from the air. The Selwyn range is the group of mountains east of
Valemount, on the east side of Kinbasket lake, bordered by Moose Lake
on the other side, and Robson Provincial Park.
We skied in the Swift Creek drainage, Bulldog Creek and Yellow Jacket Creek.
Our skiing has been sporadic so we went in with "open eyes" and
looking carefully for the numerous SH (surface hoar) layers our
neighbors around us have been monitoring. The depth of the snowpack
is between about 200cm in the north to 250cm in the south.(Bulldog
Creek) Winds seem to have been light over the last while.
Most of our skiing was on W, NW aspects. We don't have a lot of true
N facing terrain. In the northern part (Swift Creek) we did find
isolated areas of SH, down about 20cm. Deeper layers were either non
existent, isolated or hard to find. There has been very little for
avalanche activity in this area. There has been some minor solar
sluffing, one natural size 1.5 slab about 15cm deep on a north aspect
(cornice triggered) and not much else. We skied conservatively. In
this area over the last 3-4 weeks there has been about 20cm of new
snow, so a lot less than in the Selkirks, Monashees...etc.
Skiing in Bulldog creek there is signs of isolated avalanche activity
about one week plus ago, running on SH down about 20cm., size 2.5.
This was isolated and not a lot of adjacent activity on similar aspects.
Tests at treeline gave hard results. Some solar activity was noted
with point releases running to size 1.5, and one slab at ridge crest size 1.5.
Again searching...we did find Surface hoar on true N aspects, down
about 20 giving moderate results, at treeline.
There is however lots of SH now on the surface so will have to keep
that in mind.
Ski quality was very good, except anything that even glanced at the
south, which has a crust of varying degrees of break-ability....
These are limited observations. However when flying over large areas
and numerous drainages, the activity we noted was isolated.
Winds picked up yesterday in the pm with an approaching disturbance.
Feels like spring in the Valemount valley!
Peter Amann
Peter Amann
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
[MCR] Coire Dubh Integral & new topo
I guided the mighty Coire Dubh Integral today- fantastic ice and mixed conditions througout. After the initial ice pitches where the topo indicates thin ice 70 deg, or up the left facing groove, we went the thin ice which right now is an really cool smear. Fixed pin and spector on the way make it well protected. I made a new topo which is attached here (not sure if the MCR rigid regulators allow this? but anyhow if it does not work I will put it on igbguides website www.igbguides.com as well as a video of the route in the next while). I find the topo in the guide book pretty much useless so this will help folks out I think as there are several options. The route is really, really good right now and I highly reccomend it. I used cams from .4, .75, 1 & 2 camalots with a handfull of stoppers. Bring some extra double length slings and about 10 shoulder sling draws- 7 screws total. I did it with a 50M rope and it was 10 pitches or so with a bunch of short roping in between. 10 hours car to car
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Eric Dumerac- IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
3W's dot igbguides dot com 1-877-309-7673
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[MCR] Massey's
Guided Massey's today, Feb 23. Walked across the Kicking Horse River directly to the climb in one half an hour. The route is in good shape -dry ice.
As we drove away I noticed that the bottom 1/3 has fallen off of Coal Miner's Daughter.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
1 403 609 4615
cell 1 403 609 1321
Monday, February 22, 2010
[MCR] The professor falls.
A beautiful day on The Professor Falls, Feb 22. Good bike riding to the trailhead kiosk, then a good trail to the climb. Nice dry blue and green ice with some water on the last two pitches. The walk off trail, with the 30 meter rappel, has firm footing right now.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
[MCR] Rogans Gully
Guided Rogans with a party of two today. Perfect conditions climbing plastic ice all day. At the first narrow section, 30 meters off the ground, the ice is melting out fast and a 5 meter chunk will likely become scratchy dry tooling on a slab within a few days. The rest of the route is holding up great, good ice in the narrows and last tier. The route definately deserves 2 more bolted stations to make descents faster and easier. Any good samaritans heading up there could bring a small field saw to take out some spruces that have previously been avalanched onto the trail- it would be a 5 min job.
Happy ice bashin,
eric@igbguides.com
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Happy ice bashin,
eric@igbguides.com
Eric Dumerac- IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
1-877-309-7673
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[MCR] Southern Purcells: Boulder Hut
Hello;
I’ve just returned from a week at Ptarmigan Tours’ Boulder Hut in the Southern Purcells. The same buried surface hoar layers of late December, late January (x2) & early February up to 2600 metREs exist there, however we were pleasantly surprised to see virtually no reactivity. Most test results were showing Sudden Collapse characteristics thanks to the low density of the upper layers and we didn’t experience any natural or skier triggered avalanche activity. There has been very little wind in this part of the range over the last couple of weeks – indeed - over the majority of the winter. Nonetheless, we exercised caution in the Alpine where we suspected surface or buried slab conditions could tip the balance and we did find these in isolated terrain features. Ski quality ranged from good to very good.
It was a great place to be when the rest of the mountains were falling down.
Ken Bélanger
TopCog Adventures
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
CAA Level 2
[MCR] Selkirk Mountains, Whitewater ski area
Just did a couple of days ski touring around the Whitewater Ski area
slack-country in the sunshine. We skied an elevation range of 1600m to
2200m on all aspects.
slack-country in the sunshine. We skied an elevation range of 1600m to
2200m on all aspects.
I was pleasantly surprised that the recent warm temperatures hadn't
trashed the snow too badly. The trees were still carrying snow although
tree bomb activity was picking up later in the day on solar aspects.
Steep, open solar slopes showed signs of significant snowballing while
shaded aspects had plenty of dry powder. There was a temperature crust
on open solar aspects that softened in the afternoon.
Surface hoar growth is abundant (up to 15mm crystals) at all elevations
but more on the solar aspects than shaded. Go figure! On the solar
aspects its growing overnight and melting during the day. In many
places the surface hoar is sitting on a 20mm temperature crust. This
layer will likely be of concern when we get more new snow.
I didn't see much evidence of recent avalanche activity unlike regions
north of here. What avalanche debris I did see was covered with new
snow. Cornices are looking well developed, but I didn't see any recent
falls. As the afternoon temperatures rise, I'd expect the threat of
avalanches to increase on steeper solar slopes.
Despite the apparent stability I employed the usual cautions in
avalanche terrain, avoided avalanche paths and steered clear of slopes
threatened by cornices.
Enjoy the sunshine, but play it safe.
Craig Hollinger,
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
[MCR] Selkirks: Valkyr Range
Finishing a week at Valkyr Lodge in the southern Selkirks.
The primary concern this week was the Feb 9 surface hoar buried about 30 cm down. We had several natural and skier controlled avalanches on this layer, most about size 1.5 with a couple size 2's. Other surface hoar layers buried deeper weren't reactive this week in this area.
The last 2 days the slabs were less reactive in shaded lower elevations as they started to facet and weaken. We began skiing small, low consequence slopes in the 35 degree range in cold, below treeline zones and triggered a few size 1 slabs but they didn't propagate or run very far.
We continued to avoid larger features, terrain traps, and alpine slopes where there are windslabs.
[MCR] Guiness & G Stout
Guided these two with a party of two. I reccomend wearing crampons up to the base- its an otter track. Starts thin and fattens out nicely- great hooking all the way. Guiness Stout is Stout, good trail leading up to it. A little brittle to start and then it gets better, even plastic higher. Left side is running with a little water, but not bad. Many good abalacovs and trees for the descent.
Enjoy
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Enjoy
Eric Dumerac- IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
CAA Level II Professional Member, CSIA Ski Instructor Level II
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[MCR] Extra Lite
Guided the first half of Extra Lite today, Feb 21. Walked across the frozen Kicking Horse River with the first bit being on newly frozen surface floods. There is a good trail into the climb and contrary to what the guidebook says the creek leading up to the climb is quite defined at the railway tracks.
There is a lot of water on the route and it was impossible not to have the ropes get wet, then freeze.
We watched Silk Tassel avalanche at 12:20 pm (it looked to be a size 2 when we drove away later in the day).
There was ankle deep water running over the surface of the Kicking Horse River on our return.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
1 403 609 4615
cell 1 403 609 1321
[MCR] Rockies, Lake Louse group, Surprise Pass
Skied Surprise Pass today on Mt. Fairview in Lake Louise. Conditions in the Rockies more stable than the interior right now, and it was a good day to be in Surprise Pass. There is no real slab overlying the surface hoar in this area, unlike to the west. The upper 15 cm of the snowpack is dry facets. Total of 145 cm of snow at the Saddleback, and the south facing terrain was getting a bit soft but we did not observe any activity. North aspects remained cold. The Surprise Pass run has been heavily skied and felt like a run at the ski hill. Kinda fun, no powder though. We zoomed into some untracked snow on the skiers left and suddenly it was bottomless, weak facets in a very big place. We then zoomed right back to the middle and all of the tracks. Our only real concern in here today was shallow and weak spots - we (mostly) stuck the middle of the run where the snowpack is more deep and evenly distributed.
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The left side has come out big earlier this winter, and the bottom 200 m of the run is avalanche debris in the gully.
_______________________________________________________Grant Statham
Mountain Guide
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[MCR] Esplanade Range (Feb 13-19)
Spend the week of February 13 to 19 in the Esplanade Range (a small group
of mountains on the east slopes of the Selkirk's just north of Golden)
of mountains on the east slopes of the Selkirk's just north of Golden)
Received only 12 cm of storm snow throughout the week.
February 10th surface hoar is down 10-20 cm and the January 24th and 29th
surface hoar layers are down 25-35 cm. These layers are well preserved and
were found in most areas from below treeline right up to ridge tops. The
winds were calm throughout the week and as of Feb. 19th there was either no
slab or only very soft slabs above these layers. We only saw one natural
slab on a north aspect at 2300 m, but we were able to ski cut soft slabs
on steeper terrain (north facing terrain below treeline was the most
reactive). These slabs were generally small but they ran a long ways.
Latter in the week it warmed up and we saw extensive surface sluffing on
south aspects.
Not sure why we saw so little avalanche activity compared to the rest of
the Selkirk's, but likely it had to do with less storm snow and the calm
winds which resulted in little to no slabbing of the recent new snow. I
suspect that the surface hoar will become more reactive with the continued
warm temperatures, or just a bit more snow or wind.
Brian Webster
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Rogers Pass
Hi,
I wanted to add a few more observations to the other MCR's that have been posted recently.
Just back from an AST 2 course where our group witnessed some incredibly unstable snow conditions in Rogers Pass.
1. A size 2.5 remotely triggered slab on the east aspect of the 8812 ridge with the crown pulling back to almost ridge top and with a slope angle of only 20 degrees at the fracture line.
2. We then remotely triggered a large cornice collapse onto the existing bed surface which stepped down to the deeper Jan 24th surface hoar layer.
3. An east facing slope at 1900m that I had skied 2 weeks before and we could still see our ski tracks in it failed as we skinned across the top of it producing a size 2 slab. The slope angle at the crown wall was 28 degrees and we could see our ski tracks in the bed surface.
Despite the fact that I've been doing this job for awhile now, some of the events this week I've only read or heard about but never witnessed - testament to the incredibly weak snow pack that exists in this mountain range.
Be safe out there.
Steve Blagbrough.
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures.
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I wanted to add a few more observations to the other MCR's that have been posted recently.
Just back from an AST 2 course where our group witnessed some incredibly unstable snow conditions in Rogers Pass.
1. A size 2.5 remotely triggered slab on the east aspect of the 8812 ridge with the crown pulling back to almost ridge top and with a slope angle of only 20 degrees at the fracture line.
2. We then remotely triggered a large cornice collapse onto the existing bed surface which stepped down to the deeper Jan 24th surface hoar layer.
3. An east facing slope at 1900m that I had skied 2 weeks before and we could still see our ski tracks in it failed as we skinned across the top of it producing a size 2 slab. The slope angle at the crown wall was 28 degrees and we could see our ski tracks in the bed surface.
Despite the fact that I've been doing this job for awhile now, some of the events this week I've only read or heard about but never witnessed - testament to the incredibly weak snow pack that exists in this mountain range.
Be safe out there.
Steve Blagbrough.
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures.
Got a cool Hotmail story? Tell us now
Saturday, February 20, 2010
[MCR] King Creek
A pleasant day in King Creek. All three flows are in fine thick shape. I rigged a top rope on the mixed corner just right of the first flow (most down stream). The corner has little to no ice in it but was still a good climb.
The mixed line "White Magic" looked to be challenged with new dry snow camouflaging the holds.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
[MCR] Ghost - The Sorcerer
Route is dry, hooked out and fun. Great orange flagged trail to the creekbed when approaching from the south via Johnson lakes trail. Roads are snowpacked with no drifts for easy driving. You want high clearance to get past the first big ice shelf, but you can park right before it for the Sorcerer.
Evan Stevens
Mountain guide
www.vmt.ca
Evanstevens@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Friday, February 19, 2010
[MCR] Chickadee Valley Kootenay NP 0319, Quartz Ridge Banff NP 0318
Skied lines on NE aspects between 1900m and 2400m today in the back of Chickadee Valley, still some good snow and skiing to be found at this elevation.
Above 2400m has been wind hammered by moderate N winds from the last few days, hard wind slab on all aspects, poor skiing.
The new Feb 17th surface hoar was also hammered by winds in the alpine areas and only found at 2000m and below on all aspects. Rime is on this surface hoar layer.
Easy to moderate shears still persist on surface hoar down 15 and 35cm. Sun crust on all south aspects, temps were -14 to -7.
Skied lines on E aspects 2000m to 2500m off of Quarts Ridge, Banff Park yesterday, very good ski quality in boot top soft snow.
Again rime from morning fog on the Feb 17 surface hoar all aspects and elevations in alpine and at tree line.
Easy shears persist down 10 and 30cm on surface hoar. In this area the surface hoar down 30 is well preserved, standing tall and up to 12mm.
A soft slab is forming above this layer increasing the potential for skier triggering. Warm temps and intense radiation in the alpine.
Surprised to ski no natural or skier triggered avalanche activity over the last few days.
We avoided steep and moderate unsupported terrain.
Cheers, play safe out there.
Mark Stewart
Mountain Guide
[MCR] In Addition to C.M.D Silk Tassels and Bubble Rap Blues
Bubble Rap blues/Silk Tassels
To add to Barry Blanchard's earlier MCR.
I was guiding in parallel to Barry this morning and proceeded the late starting party on Silk Tassels. I made my lead up Bubble rap blues and set a line on Silk Tassels so both my seconds could climb at the same time.
The route Bubble rap blues was much harder than the WI4+ given in the book. The route was fragile but had secure shallow sticks and while the climbing required focus, the run out was within reason while the route was in the shade. The route's first section, would likely be a huge gamble in the sun and not just for the terrain above!
The upper part had pleasant mushrooms with adequate gear.
A single pin with a #1 Camelot (one could fit a few) behind the small trees make for a good anchor at the top of the route.
We got to the car just a little after 10:00.
Like Barry suggested; i think that in general, early starts with early returns are a good idea overall at the moment and this true across the range, especially on sun affected aspects. I would further urge climbers to not become complacent in light of the current trend of "lower" avalanche hazard ratings, even a small sluff can significantly "assault" a climber!
On another note the coffee shop/general store is now open again and its in fine conditions...plenty of good stuff and a must stop over for lunch! (early lunch)
Cheers
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
403 688 6003
"Strive not to be a success, but rather to be of value."
Albert Einstein
To add to Barry Blanchard's earlier MCR.
I was guiding in parallel to Barry this morning and proceeded the late starting party on Silk Tassels. I made my lead up Bubble rap blues and set a line on Silk Tassels so both my seconds could climb at the same time.
The route Bubble rap blues was much harder than the WI4+ given in the book. The route was fragile but had secure shallow sticks and while the climbing required focus, the run out was within reason while the route was in the shade. The route's first section, would likely be a huge gamble in the sun and not just for the terrain above!
The upper part had pleasant mushrooms with adequate gear.
A single pin with a #1 Camelot (one could fit a few) behind the small trees make for a good anchor at the top of the route.
We got to the car just a little after 10:00.
Like Barry suggested; i think that in general, early starts with early returns are a good idea overall at the moment and this true across the range, especially on sun affected aspects. I would further urge climbers to not become complacent in light of the current trend of "lower" avalanche hazard ratings, even a small sluff can significantly "assault" a climber!
On another note the coffee shop/general store is now open again and its in fine conditions...plenty of good stuff and a must stop over for lunch! (early lunch)
Cheers
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
403 688 6003
"Strive not to be a success, but rather to be of value."
Albert Einstein
[MCR] Johnston Canyon 2010.02.19
Hey Guys/Gals
Just a quick heads up. Working in Johnstone Canyon today. The left most section of the upper area where the long pillars generally form is starting to see enough sun effect that it's starting to shed some pretty substantial size chunks of ice. When we rolled in today, there were quite a few blocks laying fairly close to the end of the catwalk and to the normal staging area, that have likely come down in the last 24hrs or so. The one big pillar that is still standing looks spooky. It's the closet to the base area we all normally hang out at and once your a ways up the routes to the far right of it, you can see it's actually fractured and settled out about 6in. as well as starting to get pretty delaminated near the top. Guessing it won't be long until it comes down too. Feels like the base area would be a scary place to watch it tip over from.
Anyhoo, just thought, it might just feel a bit cramped in there if you caught the canyon on a busy day.
The routes on the right side are still good to go, we stuck to those for the day, just starting to see a bit of sun rot near the tops but that's it!
Adios!
Mike Trehearne
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
[MCR] Coal Miner's Daughter
Guided Coal Miner's Daughter today, Feb 19. Refreshingly cold in Field at 7:00 this morning, -16 C via the car thermometer. Good to park in the "Monarch" campground parking lot, which has been plowed, and is on the left at the baracade to the Yoho Valley Road (signed "Monarch"). There is a snow shoe track that leads from there to the slopes below the climb. Our up track, possibly the first of the year, is set in sparse trees on the climber's left.
The route is a good adventure right now and probably a half grade, or grade, harder than the guidebook 4. No evidence of any other ascents this year. We belayed on the left and climbed about 20 meters of steep ice with a back supporting chimney for meters 15-20 (it felt like a poor man's version of the first 20 meters of Pilsner Pillar at present). Then a strenuous pull around to the right frontside and after a few meters you can stand on a ledge. The next 10 meters are like an exaggerated Cascade crux, ie: a delicate window pane with a fair amount of water falling plumb behind, but longer and steeper than Cascade. We belayed anchored to the old 12 x 12 inch wooden posts supporting an old mine portal. The narrow gauge track and ties provided a good standing platform. Overall a fun and adventurous route. The sun was on the route from about 10:30- 11:30 am, then it set behind Mt Stephen, but was back on the climb after we drove east from coffee in Field -about 1:00 pm.
We saw a party starting Silk Tassel at about 11:30, when we were driving to Field for coffee. I feel that I should reiterate that the start zones for avalanches on Silk Tassel are at the summit of Mt Field, some 4000 feet above the route. Those start zones had been getting sun since 9:00 am? Best to get Silk Tassel done at dawn on these sunny days. Further the belayer stood out in front of the route where I believe several people have been hurt, and two killed, over the years. Having been there two days ago I know that there is an ice cave that you can belay in (we did, early in the morning on Wednesday) and be much less exposed. I mention all of this in the spirit of safer climbing.
The KIcking Horse River has opened up from the bridge at the base of the Spiral Tunnel Hill to below Super Bock. The river is also surface flooding the ice, take a good look before walking out onto it.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
1 403 609 4615
cell 1 403 609 1321
Thursday, February 18, 2010
[MCR] Conditions: Selkirks North of Revelstoke
Further to the Special Public Avalanche Warning posted by Greg and numerous other postings by other fellow guides I thought I’d post a few of my observations today.
I was teaching a CAA Avalanche Operations Level 1 course today into the Selkirk’s just north of Revelstoke (just north of Mt Revelstoke National Park). Clear skies meant that we got a really good look around, we were at 2350 at 9:30am and spent the entire day up high.
The helicopter remotely triggered 2 large avalanches – 1 Size 3 and 1 large size 2, on W and NW aspects at around 2350m. The propagations were remarkable. Both avalanches started on the Feb 8 surface hoar layer and stepped down to the late January surface hoar layers – they ran fast and far.
We also ski cut 2 size 1’s on small, low angled terrain. On a W aspect at the end of the day I skied over a roll and over a dozen shooting cracks darted out in front of my skis. There was cracking and obvious signs of instability all day, on all aspects.
We avoided avalanche terrain all day. Compression tests were showing easy, sudden results. For those who know the Propagation Saw Test the Feb 8 surface hoar layer failed dramatically after only 5cm of cutting. YIKES!
Be careful out there folks, its very touchy.
Ian Tomm
CAA Professional Member
ACMG Ski Guide
P.S. Special thanks to the guides and staff at Selkirk Tangiers Heliskiing for supporting professional avalanche training with a heli-lift to study the snowpack in their area. Much appreciated!
I was teaching a CAA Avalanche Operations Level 1 course today into the Selkirk’s just north of Revelstoke (just north of Mt Revelstoke National Park). Clear skies meant that we got a really good look around, we were at 2350 at 9:30am and spent the entire day up high.
The helicopter remotely triggered 2 large avalanches – 1 Size 3 and 1 large size 2, on W and NW aspects at around 2350m. The propagations were remarkable. Both avalanches started on the Feb 8 surface hoar layer and stepped down to the late January surface hoar layers – they ran fast and far.
We also ski cut 2 size 1’s on small, low angled terrain. On a W aspect at the end of the day I skied over a roll and over a dozen shooting cracks darted out in front of my skis. There was cracking and obvious signs of instability all day, on all aspects.
We avoided avalanche terrain all day. Compression tests were showing easy, sudden results. For those who know the Propagation Saw Test the Feb 8 surface hoar layer failed dramatically after only 5cm of cutting. YIKES!
Be careful out there folks, its very touchy.
Ian Tomm
CAA Professional Member
ACMG Ski Guide
P.S. Special thanks to the guides and staff at Selkirk Tangiers Heliskiing for supporting professional avalanche training with a heli-lift to study the snowpack in their area. Much appreciated!
[MCR] JNP: Cavell road and Astoria area open feb 15th.
FYI, Cavell road into tonquin valley is open again for public use. See
attached for more info.
attached for more info.
(See attached file: FINAL Info Hub_Cavell Road re-opening
Feb_2010.pdf)
Garth Lemke
Public Safety Specialist
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide.
[MCR] Weeping wall
Guided Weeping Wall to day 4 of the Hot Ice Yamnuska Mountain Adventures program.
Below the wall -14 in the shade at 08:00 and a warm +10 in the sun by mid day.
We climbed a line just right of "left side". The ice is generally good but care must be taken as the slab is really starting to detach. Water is running at the top and care must be taken when getting over to the last pitches. The rock is covered in some thin ice in sections and poor steep "since" in others. In the morning cold the section in question settled 6 times during my lead!!
On an other note, given the number of threads around the wall, i would like to remind folks that a bomber rap line rigged for 60m raps can be found on the climbers far right. It starts of a Large 1/2 chain on a tree. subsequent raps are found climbers right between 55 and 60m (3 total).
Winds were also blowing at ridge top but not too much loose to move around.
Cheers
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
403 688 6003
"Strive not to be a success, but rather to be of value."
Albert Einstein
[MCR] Conditions in the west monashees
I am working in the western Monashees just south of Three-Valley gap and just NW of Monashee Pass.
To follow up posts by Jorg and Mark, we are seeing the same thing over here. On my first day of work (Feb 14) I skied 13 runs and between me ski cutting, my group remote triggering, sympathetic releases from avalanches we triggerd, avalanches triggered by the cat as it drove on hard packed flat roads in runout zones we had about 20 avalanches. Things have continued more or less in that vein each day since. Most of these avalanches were small but mostly that was because we were skiing in very small terrain features and on runs that had been heavily skied prior to the last snowfall. Places that have not been heavily skied are producing size 2.5 avalanches (big enough to ding a pickup pretty good and certainly big enough to kill a skier or sledder) on 20 degree slopes. There are many reports of bigger avalanches in areas around us.
Here we have 3 layers of surface hoar in the top 60cm with the latest one (Feb 8th) being most reactive. Here's some notable observations:
- We are seeing deep and rough tracks in the bed surface, so old ski tracks are meaningless.
- Unless it's been heavily skied and it's very moderate terrain, we are seeing recent ski tracks in the slab, so recent ski tracks are highly suspect.
- We are seeing avalanches on 20 degree terrain so the 30 degree rule is out.
- Today I triggered an avalanche 35cm deep x 40m wide by 50m long on the Feb 8th layer and the 4th skier across the bed surface triggered a second slide where the bed surface avalanched on one of the deeper layers. So skiing on the bed surface is no guarantee of safety.
There's been some natural activity but not nearly enough to clean out all the pockets and all the layers. Over the last four days, it's been getting a bit harder to trigger these things: on the 14th you just had to approach a slope and it would take off, today it's often the 3rd or 4th ski cut and part way down the slope before it'll go. And the slides we are seeing getting a bit bigger every day. North and East aspects above about 1500m seem to be worse but we've triggered slides on most aspects and elevations over the last few days.
I am skiing only in terrain where I know every detail intimately. I am skiing only on VERY small terrain features where I always have a safe exit option. I'm staying off all convex or unsupported terrain over 20-25 degrees. I'm avoiding terrain traps like the plague. I'm becoming more conservative every day.
Given how shallowly this layer is buried, it is producing impressive results in terms of propagation and avalanche size. It will likely remain unstable for a long while yet. The average active life of surface hoar like this is 3 - 5 weeks and that's in a normal winter.
If you want to post this message elsewhere or wish to pass it on, please do so freely.
Take care and be safe out there.
Karl Klassen
Revelstoke, BC
karlklassen@telus.net
To follow up posts by Jorg and Mark, we are seeing the same thing over here. On my first day of work (Feb 14) I skied 13 runs and between me ski cutting, my group remote triggering, sympathetic releases from avalanches we triggerd, avalanches triggered by the cat as it drove on hard packed flat roads in runout zones we had about 20 avalanches. Things have continued more or less in that vein each day since. Most of these avalanches were small but mostly that was because we were skiing in very small terrain features and on runs that had been heavily skied prior to the last snowfall. Places that have not been heavily skied are producing size 2.5 avalanches (big enough to ding a pickup pretty good and certainly big enough to kill a skier or sledder) on 20 degree slopes. There are many reports of bigger avalanches in areas around us.
Here we have 3 layers of surface hoar in the top 60cm with the latest one (Feb 8th) being most reactive. Here's some notable observations:
- We are seeing deep and rough tracks in the bed surface, so old ski tracks are meaningless.
- Unless it's been heavily skied and it's very moderate terrain, we are seeing recent ski tracks in the slab, so recent ski tracks are highly suspect.
- We are seeing avalanches on 20 degree terrain so the 30 degree rule is out.
- Today I triggered an avalanche 35cm deep x 40m wide by 50m long on the Feb 8th layer and the 4th skier across the bed surface triggered a second slide where the bed surface avalanched on one of the deeper layers. So skiing on the bed surface is no guarantee of safety.
There's been some natural activity but not nearly enough to clean out all the pockets and all the layers. Over the last four days, it's been getting a bit harder to trigger these things: on the 14th you just had to approach a slope and it would take off, today it's often the 3rd or 4th ski cut and part way down the slope before it'll go. And the slides we are seeing getting a bit bigger every day. North and East aspects above about 1500m seem to be worse but we've triggered slides on most aspects and elevations over the last few days.
I am skiing only in terrain where I know every detail intimately. I am skiing only on VERY small terrain features where I always have a safe exit option. I'm staying off all convex or unsupported terrain over 20-25 degrees. I'm avoiding terrain traps like the plague. I'm becoming more conservative every day.
Given how shallowly this layer is buried, it is producing impressive results in terms of propagation and avalanche size. It will likely remain unstable for a long while yet. The average active life of surface hoar like this is 3 - 5 weeks and that's in a normal winter.
If you want to post this message elsewhere or wish to pass it on, please do so freely.
Take care and be safe out there.
Karl Klassen
Revelstoke, BC
karlklassen@telus.net
[MCR] CAC Special Public Avalanche Warning
The Canadian Avalanche Centre has issued a Special Public Avalanche Warning for many areas in British Columbia through this weekend. Please read the attachment.
Greg Johnson
Avalanche Forecaster
Canadian Avalanche Centre
Greg Johnson
Avalanche Forecaster
Canadian Avalanche Centre
[MCR] High Avalanche Hazard Selkirks and Monashee Ranges
I have been heli-skiing in the Selkirks and Monashee ranges around Revelstoke for the last 4 days. Our main concern has been two surface hoar layers that are relatively close to each other and currently found as deep as 50cm from the surface in the Monashees and a bit shallower in the Selkirks . While we have had a lot of issues this season already with buried surface hoar instabilities, this layer combo seems to be the most reactive and troublesome so far as 1) it is prevalent all the way into the alpine 2) requires very little trigger (we triggered a size 2.5 from 200 meters away by landing with a (small) Bell 407 helicopter on a peak above a southerly aspect at 2600 meters) which in turn triggered additional smaller avalanches sympathetically and 3) shows enormous potential for propagation (meaning the fracture travels a long way – we have heard of 500 meter fracture lines in the Purcells for example) which makes for the potential of catastrophic slides.
At the same time, we found the northern aspect particularly touchy in the last few days. Yesterday, with the onset of the nice weather, we have lost a lot of the non-northern aspects to the solar radiation (i.e. sun crust by now) which will draw a lot of backcountry users to the Northern aspects during the coming weekend. Also, the current poor snow stability is not likely to go away soon. In the 14 years that I have been heli-skiing around Revelstoke, I have rarely seen such a red (=no go) run list and so much large scale natural or low trigger avalanche activity even on low angle ski runs.
Stay safe out there……
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA)
1-800 506-7177 or (001) (403) 678-2717
[MCR] Selkirks avalanches
Part way through a week here in the Valkyr Range in the southern Selkirks and to put it succinctly things are "going off". We have had many skier controlled and natural avalanches with several being triggered remotely from 5-8 meters away. They have been in the size 1.5 to size 2 range but we have been keeping to small terrain. In larger features there would be larger avalanches. All have failed on the surface hoar buried February 9. All of our nearest neighbours have been seeing the same thing.
Heads up.
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
www.alpinism.com
[MCR] Ice Fields - Polar Circus
The route is in great plastic and hooked shape right now. WX yesterday produced 5-8cms of snow via flurries and cloudy skies with temps just below 0 until early afternoon. With calm winds and clear skies things got quite warm in the PM. On route only very little spindrift from the new snow and lots of old wet slides had come down a few days earlier on the hiking bypass to the left of the ice start.
Have fun,
Evan Stevens
Mountain Guide
www.vmt.ca
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
[MCR] Silk Tassel
Guided Silk Tassel today, Feb 17. The route is big and blue and user friendly with the exception of having to dry tool for a couple of moves to get to the tree anchor because there is no avalanche debris there raising floor.
Bubble Wrap Blues has been getting climbed, but it is grey with some rock patches sticking through for the first 20 meters, looked like stubby and short screws would be your friend.
There was intermittent cloud cover there today with the sun hitting the route at about 11:00, when we were packing up to walk away. Could be a nervous place on a sunny day given that the sun hits the avalanche start zones at the top of Mt Field at least an hour earlier.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
[MCR] Spray River Falls
Guided Spray River Falls today, Feb 16. Another mild and calm day. The climb is surprisingly dry with lots of chromey smooth ice. We climbed through a large keyhole on the left side that placed us on a comfortable belay behind the crux pillar. A recent abalakov there had been badly chewed on by rock rats or pikas (the varmits must be hungry as they ate the cord down to the core). The crux pillar felt a half grade harder than Carlsberg Column (we climbed that yesterday). One of my guests fell on the crux and dropped both his leashless tools. I rapelled down and lowered him mine, with leases attached. In retrospect, it would have been a good place to be using an umbilical system. We were belayed in yet another keyhole/room on the left side about 10 meters down from the top and descended from there being, 3 climbers with 4 tools, too bad because the climbing out of the cave looked interesting.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
1 403 609 4615
cell 1 403 609 1321
[MCR] Howsons 16 February 2010
The dreaded surface hoar has shown itself in the Howsons. Today I
remotely triggered two size 3 avalanches simultaneously. From the broad
flat summit of Tom George Mountain, a whumpf dropped a 300 m wide and 1
m thick piece of cornice onto the East flank of Tom George Mountain. We
heard prolonged thunder, but it took us a while to safely get to the
edge and get a view. The avalanche had run far out onto the plateau.
Then we found out that the fracture had pulled around the NE ridge of
Tom George Mountain and released the entire North Bowl. Many of you know
those lines. Today, they would have been deadly. We found some old,
entirely degraded, but discernible surface hoar on the bed surface. The
snow that released was storm snow. It blew fairly hard at ridgetops the
last few days.
remotely triggered two size 3 avalanches simultaneously. From the broad
flat summit of Tom George Mountain, a whumpf dropped a 300 m wide and 1
m thick piece of cornice onto the East flank of Tom George Mountain. We
heard prolonged thunder, but it took us a while to safely get to the
edge and get a view. The avalanche had run far out onto the plateau.
Then we found out that the fracture had pulled around the NE ridge of
Tom George Mountain and released the entire North Bowl. Many of you know
those lines. Today, they would have been deadly. We found some old,
entirely degraded, but discernible surface hoar on the bed surface. The
snow that released was storm snow. It blew fairly hard at ridgetops the
last few days.
Yesterday we skied through Polemic Pass, which means travelling on some
very steep and exposed south facing alpine terrain. All of this had
released on the 13th in a widespread avalanche cycle, so we felt
entirely confident. Today's avalanches released on steep terrain, but
fractured into and pulled down some fairly moderate angle sections.
Right now, the good skiing is on cold northerly aspects as the sun has
been on the southerly and southwesterly ones. It would be good to avoid
even moderately steep windloaded terrain in those aspects that has not
released in the last cycle, even if that means skiing suncrust.Poor
skiing beats getting killed any day.
--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] AUTO: Your e:mail to Brad White cannot be completed at this time. Please do not try again until March 04, 2010. (returning 04/03/2010)
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Note: This is an automated response to your message "MCR Digest, Vol 61,
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Louise Falls, Lake Louise
Been up Louise falls a few times in the past few days. Few different options up but the safest line is around WI4+. The first pitch we found it hard to get cover on the right side under the rock arch as the ice was almost too slushy to get a good anchor. The left side of the first pitch up to the tree is good to go just a bit wet. On the second pitch we stayed well away from the right side as it's got the biggest chunk of hang-fire overhead. The left side has a bit as well but much less than the right. Looks like it had grown a fair bit in between the days I was there and don't know if I'd want to be around it if it grows much more. Seems like the safest line is right up the middle into the cave on the second pitch. You're exposed to both left and right sides but only while your low down on the pitch. Pillar pitch is really hooked out and above that the ice is a bit unconsolidated but still easy climbing.
7 people below us at one point, with complete gridlock at the cave. All of these parties showed up at about 11am... on a long weekend. Might be wise to start early if you like being first.
Enjoy!
Mike.
Mike Trehearne
ACMG - Assistant Alpine Guide
m_trehearne@hotmail.com
ACMG - Assistant Alpine Guide
m_trehearne@hotmail.com
[MCR] South Miller Creek ~ South Coast Range
Hoping this finds Everyone keeping well.
Travelling over a fair amount of glaciated and alpine terrain 20km north and north-west of Whistler today revealed both a recent and previous widespread and large natural avalanche cycle on the buried layers of surface hoar currently up to 40-70 cm beneath the surface of the snowcover. The terrain that was 'performing' naturally was mostly alpine, convex, north-aspects and even, in places, relatively gentle alpine terrain. One large natural avalanche that released on the January 24th buried surface hoar began as a natural cornice fall five days ago then proceeded to pull out a big slab that even propagated out onto 15-degree (or shallow-angled) terrain.
There is also a good deal of terrain that has not released and so caution is advised. Choosing smaller scale slopes without overhead exposure nor terrain traps, and terrain that is gentler and 'supported' is currently a safer means of mountain travel.
Surface hoar is a fragile crystal type and, when buried at current depths along with cohesive snow above it, can result in dangerous and widely-propagating slabs.
My best bet is that defaulting to using safer terrain is more important than trying to 'out-think' a layer(s) like this right now.
Wishing Everyone safe travels in the hills.
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Asst. Ski Guide
All your Hotmail contacts on your phone. Try it now.
Travelling over a fair amount of glaciated and alpine terrain 20km north and north-west of Whistler today revealed both a recent and previous widespread and large natural avalanche cycle on the buried layers of surface hoar currently up to 40-70 cm beneath the surface of the snowcover. The terrain that was 'performing' naturally was mostly alpine, convex, north-aspects and even, in places, relatively gentle alpine terrain. One large natural avalanche that released on the January 24th buried surface hoar began as a natural cornice fall five days ago then proceeded to pull out a big slab that even propagated out onto 15-degree (or shallow-angled) terrain.
There is also a good deal of terrain that has not released and so caution is advised. Choosing smaller scale slopes without overhead exposure nor terrain traps, and terrain that is gentler and 'supported' is currently a safer means of mountain travel.
Surface hoar is a fragile crystal type and, when buried at current depths along with cohesive snow above it, can result in dangerous and widely-propagating slabs.
My best bet is that defaulting to using safer terrain is more important than trying to 'out-think' a layer(s) like this right now.
Wishing Everyone safe travels in the hills.
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Asst. Ski Guide
All your Hotmail contacts on your phone. Try it now.
Monday, February 15, 2010
[MCR] Wapta Feb 12-15
Did the Wapta Traverse from Bow Lake to West Louise Lodge Feb 12-15.
Travel conditions were good, with ski penetration of about 15 cm. Snow cover on the glacier averaged 225 cm, although some of the more exposed areas had as little as 140 cm.
We found the Feb 9 surface hoar layer on all aspects. This layer was down 15 cm and was giving easy moderate compression test results (CTM 11). The Jan 25 layer was down 35 cm and was giving hard moderate test results (CTM 18).
By Feb 14, there was windslab forming in the alpine and we experienced shooting cracks on a 30 degree west aspect at 2800 meters. The east face of Mt Niles had not slid as of Feb 15 and had received enough wind effect to pose a significant threat. We avoided traversing that slope by descending low angle terrain into the drainage below the face and then putting in an up-track through the moraines a few hundred meters further south.
The creek south of Mt Niles had some open water, but travel down to Sherbrooke Lake was generally quite straight-forward.
Grant Meekins
Alpine Guide, Assistant Ski Guide
[MCR] Carlsberg Column
A calm and mild day in Field today, but active -parties on Guniness Gully and Stout, Masseys, Super Bock, and us on Carlsberg. The first pitch (the one many people walk around) is hooked out, but steep. The main part of the route hasn't changed much over the last month, but now, with the warmer temperatures, it is a game of trying to climb where its dry.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
[MCR] Selkirk Mountains, Slocan Ranges north of Meadow Mt. west of the Lardeau River
Spent the last two weeks (Jan 30 to Feb 14) cat skiing in the Lardeu
River area just north of the town of Meadow Creek. We skied an
elevation range of 2300 to 1500m entirely on a NE aspect in steep, treed
terrain and through the occasional opening and clear cut.
River area just north of the town of Meadow Creek. We skied an
elevation range of 2300 to 1500m entirely on a NE aspect in steep, treed
terrain and through the occasional opening and clear cut.
Most notable was the benign weather: Little snowfall and mild
temperatures. This kept the stability good for most of the time with
only moderate surface sloughing in steeper terrain. We did wake up the
Dec 29 surface hoar layer in late January with ski cutting in steep
terrain. Some whumphing was noted in open low angled terrain as well.
The layer settled down again in February. Compression tests on this
layer were in the moderate to hard range.
Another new surface hoar layer rapidly developed on all aspects in early
February and was buried on the 9th. This layer later increased the
surface sloughing problem again. Increasing temperatures on February 13
produced moist surface snow below 1700m. This snow became more cohesive
producing very soft slabs with no consequences at these elevations.
Overall the ski quality was good, but with the lack of new snowfall we
had to do some hunting the last few days to find fresh tracks for the
guests. Even with the good stability we skied cautiously on steep open
terrain to manage the sloughing.
The weather forecast doesn't look promising though with continued mild
weather and little precipitation. It'll change eventually.
Play safe.
Craig Hollinger,
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
[MCR] Slipstream conditions follow up
For Slipstream, several people have asked me if I had images of the route, how many screws I had brought and how long did the route take. I brought 11 screws, with two competent climbers the route takes anywhere from 7 to 12 hours from the base, we did not take a bit of video that shows some of the ice and snow conditions- video is on www.igbguides.com home page right side. Happy ice,
Eric Dumerac- IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide, eric@igbguides.com
1-877-309-7673
All your Hotmail contacts on your phone. Try it now.
Eric Dumerac- IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide, eric@igbguides.com
1-877-309-7673
All your Hotmail contacts on your phone. Try it now.
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