[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 29, 2009

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 29, 2009 The past week of cooler unsettled weather has brought a fair bit of snow to most of the mountain ranges in western Canada. A few folks have been out getting some decent early season turns but an old pair of skis and a healthy sense of humour is still required in most spots. The cooler weather has also allowed ice climbs to start forming again and for the determined climber there are some fun places to go exploring. Current snow reports have come in as follows: • Northern Monashees – 70cm – 1m at treeline • Cariboos – 50-70cm at treeline • Selkirks/Rogers Pass Area – 50-70cm at treeline • Rockies – 20-40cm at treeline near the divide, variable amounts in the front ranges. As a result of the new snow many open areas above treeline are reaching the threshold for avalanche activity and a few small cycles of natural avalanche activity have been reported, e.g. a size 2 slab avalanche out of the Chalice/Lone Ranger descent gully which ran about 600m within the past 24 hours was observed today (Friday). Some cornices are now large enough to be a concern and wind loaded gullies may have enough snow to take you for a ride if you are in the wrong place. The other thing to keep in mind is that after the hot dry summer we had, the glaciers will have more open or thinly bridged crevasses than they have had in past years. On the Asulkan Glacier three weeks ago it was disappointing to see how many large, open crevasses were present at all elevations. It will take some time to recover from the loss of so much of the firn snow this summer and create solid snow bridges over the crevasses. For skiers expect some walking or at least some rugged skinning at lower elevations until you get up above treeline and into the better skiing. Avalanche gear and glacier travel gear are a good idea. Early season hazards such as rocks and tree stumps will also be something to watch for. For ice climbers things are getting back on track especially on high elevation North facing routes. In the Rockies reports of good ice have been limited but standard early season areas such as Ranger Creek, Mt Lougheed, some routes on the Stanley Headwall, and places along the icefields parkway around Bow Summit or the Columbia Icefields have been seeing some traffic and things are improving quickly. The good news for ice climbers is that travel conditions are excellent right now with limited snow on the approaches and pleasant temperatures. The bad news is that many of the climbs are a long ways from the car. Bring some short screws, a few pitons and some rock gear just in case, and carefully evaluate steep wind loaded areas on the approaches as well as gullies and cornices above the climbs for avalanche hazard…even in areas with a limited snow pack. The outlook for the weekend is for continued unsettled weather with flurries over the main ranges especially at higher elevations and warmer dryer air over the front ranges. It's a good time to work on some early season fitness on the approaches and be ready to change plans, practise your avalanche rescue skills, and head for the couch or the bar stool if things are not in condition. Note: Daylight savings time ends on Nov 1. Enjoy the extra hour! Cheers, Conrad Janzen ACMG Mountain Guide

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.