[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 15, 2009

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 15, 2009 Winter came in with a vengance last weekend with temperatures dropping to below -20 degrees in the Rockies. This left folks scrambling to find their down jackets and ice tools and the rock shoes have been thrown in the back of the cupboard. Around Canmore and along the Icefields Parkway there is a fair bit of ice that is already in reasonable early season shape. Several parties have been in to Ranger Creek and R&D is reported as "thick and worth it". Around Sunwapta, Shades of Beauty, Tangle Falls, Murchison and others are starting to see some traffic. Thin screw placements and early season fragility can be expected. There is enough snow on the descents that the chance of popping a small wind slab and taking a cheese grater ride is a concern. In the alpine, 20-40cm of new snow has fallen with some wind effect. Reports from the Wapta and the Columbia Icefields are consistent with thinly covered crevasse bridges, isolated wind slabs and early season crusts and basal facets. This new snow is facetting over the dryest and blackest year on the local glaciers that anyone has experienced and will definitely require monitoring as the season progresses. How the snowpack bonds to this underlying ice and dirt will be interesting to see, but I suspect not well. There is not really enough snow yet to warrant skiing. Reports from inside at Rogers Pass are of snow on the ground at 1350 metres and estimates of 20- 50cm as you increase in elevation. Similar issues of thinly covered hidden crevasses and the potential for slab avalanches on steep terrain would be expected there on the glaciers. The forecast for the weekend is for warming temperatures and rain and snow showers as a low pressure system moves in from the coast. The warm temperatures will definitely effect the ice climbing and I expect some climbs will begin to fall down and melt. In addition, wet snow slides over smooth ground cover will be a concern. Higher elevation north facing ice climbs will probably hold up. Alternately, alpine scramble routes on ridges could be an option if you are prepared to deal with wintery conditions. Brad White Mountain Guide

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.