[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 8, 2009

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 8, 2009 This past week has seen mixed weather with below freezing nights and cool and cloudy days with light rain and snow showers in the Rockies. Alpine travel at the moment is not good, with postholing and tedious travel through unconsolidated snow and snow covered rock. Coverage on glaciers continues to be poor with still plenty of exposed ice in windswept locations and weakly bridged crevasses. While they may offer tempting skiing, glaciers are generally in poor condition at the moment and extreme caution must be exercised. This means expertise, probing and roped travel. Small slab avalanches big enough to knock you off your feet (sz 1) were being reported up until yesterday. With the strong north/northeast winds, be alert for lee aspects (e.g. west and south as well as crossloaded features) that will certainly be primed for larger avalanches by now with this latest storm. On Thursday afternoon a cold storm system has swept in from the northeast depositing as much as 10 cm at valley bottom in the Rockies. The forecast for tonight in Lake Louise and the Icefields is for around -20C, and the daytime high on Friday around -10C!! Although I have limited data from the Interior, it looks like the storm dried out just west of the Rockies and left little in the way of precipitation in the Columbias. Rogers Pass seems to have received just a few centimeters today. The total snow depth in the alpine in the Rockies ranges from 10cm (solar aspects, lower elevation) to 40cm (shaded, sheltered aspects) with reports of slabs in windloaded areas of up to 100cm. Waterfall ice is forming rapidly and spectacularly in the high cold places like the Stanley Headwall and Terminator Wall. Keep in mind, however, that it is very early season and the rock underlying the ice is still cooling off from the summer. I would expect poor bonding, thin ice, limited protection, and challenging climbing. Alpine rock throughout the Rockies and Columbias is a write-off at the moment, and the long range forecast shows no sign of improvement in this regard. To sum up, it will be a challenge to find safe, entertaining mountain adventure this weekend. With a sunny (but cold) forecast, it will be very tempting to spend some time in the mountains. Keep in mind the cold weather, the conditions and the hazards, and set your objectives accordingly. Regards, Tom Wolfe ACMG AAG/ASG

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.