Hi All,
We just got back from a few fantastic days of alpine rock climbing in the Mulvey basin of Valhalla Provincial Park. Here are a few observations for those interested:
Crampons and Ice Axe: The upper slope on the North side of the Gimli col, which leads into Mulvey basin, is presently black ice. Steel crampons and ice axe are recommended for this short section (60m) of 35-40 degree ice.
Rock and Icefall hazard: The relatively low snowpack from last winter combined with a warm and dry summer have had an affect on this in the area. We observed continuous rock fall out of steep north facing terrain at higher elevation where summer snow and ice (mainly ice) still remain. The pocket glacier on the North side of Gimli was also very active. It was periodically producing icefall avalanches running the entire length of the rock slabs below. It is best to avoid this area by descending into Mulvey basin from the skiers left side (West) once below the Gimli col.
Drinking Water: There is presently no drinking water available at the campsite below the South ridge of Gimli. This may change on short-term basis with present precipitation but it will dry out again soon. There is sometimes a trickle of water a few hundred meters down the East slope below this campsite. It is recommended that you treat your water here. If you camp in Mulvey basin, there is plenty of good drinking water there.
Access: The Bannock creek forest service road is in reasonable low clearance 2 wheel drive condition.
Fall is in the air! We are now experiencing some cooler weather along with light snow at higher elevation. Warm and sunny weather being in the forcast for the next few days, I suspect most of the South facing route will be climbable again before the weekend.
The alpine rock-climbing season here sometime extends well into October. It is a good option when the higher peaks of the Purcell's, Selkirk's and Rockies further north and East start to get snowed-in.
Enjoy and have a great fall,
David Lussier
Mountain Guide
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