We enjoyed a great day on the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire yesterday. The route is dry and in excellent condition. Crampons were useful for the approach ice on the Crescent Glacier side. The new bolted rap stations on the way up to the Crescent - Bugaboo col kept things moving quickly.
We descended via the Snowpatch rappels to the Bugaboo Glacier. The Bugaboo Glacier is becoming quite complex with many crevasses to navigate around. We descended the glacier for a while then moved onto the moraines below Snowpatch Spire. These moraines also have plenty of rockfall issues in the lower sections and we moved through this area very quickly. Not sure if it was better to be on the moraines or out on the glacier winding through the crevasses. It did seem better than traveling through the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col where we heard/observed frequent rockfall throughout the day even very early in the morning.
Beautiful day out in the Bugaboos!
IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.conradjanzenguiding.com