Despite a few short snow flurries up high, the recent record breaking warm temperatures and mostly dry weather, combined with a slightly cooler but dry forecast are granting us one last shot at alpine climbing before Autumn finally arrives early next week.
Conditions are similar to last week with increased snow melt on the glaciers and significant rockfall still being the main issues in the alpine. The snow from early in the week will still be an issue on the higher north facing rock routes but there was not enough to create much avalanche hazard.
Ice route are probably still not recommended and many glaciers have become very difficult to navigate but mid elevation alpine rock climbs are still in great shape and the setting is incredible with the Larches in their prime.
It is a somewhat unique opportunity to be able to comfortably climb routes like the Grand Sentinel in the Moraine Lake area and the McTech Arete in the Bugaboos at this time of year.
Routes like the NE Ridge of Bugaboo will have snow in the chimneys and the shady side of the NW Ridge of Sir Donald will be pretty slippery but routes on the south side of Louis and Castle could still be pretty good.
Enjoy it while it lasts.
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Marc Piché
Mountain Guide