Skied up the Athabasca Glacier to the South Ridge of Mt Andromeda yesterday, May 23. We were able to skin from the toe of the glacier which was more pleasant than walking down the glacier bus tour road. Travel conditions were very good with a strong overnight freeze and supportive melt/freeze crust. Passed the second step by traversing towards Andromeda and ascending the ramp closest to the centre of the glacier (not the ramp against Andromeda). This centre ramp goes and isn't exposed to serac fall from either Andromeda or Snowdome.
We skied into a dry winter snow pack as soon as left the west facing slopes and entered the northwest facing trough that leads to the col between the unnamed 10,800 peak and Andromeda. 30-50 cm of dry wind deposited snow there. We kept to the least steep parts of the slope, descended 100 meters at one point to get to a less steep passage.
Left our skis at the col and used boot crampons to the summit, would be possible to boot pack the ridge right now (not use crampons). We didn't have ski crampons but they would be good to take as the melt/freeze crust is changing quickly with the sun.
Great corn skiing all the way down (8 hours up for us and 2 & 1/2 down!). We roped up to ski down the ramp of the 3rd step and kept the rope on till we were below the first step.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures