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Friday, May 29, 2009

[MCR] Athabasca AA col route

Climbed Athabasca today via AA col route.
Started at 3:45 and though the lower patches of snow below the
glacier were somewhat soft, conditions were much better once on the glacier.
We were not sure what conditions would be like but were going to have
a look and were surprised to find things better than expected.

Good travel on a MF crust with the occasional punching through but
only 5cm or so.. The main slope leading up had some large snowballing
probably from the last few days. There was a crust on this today
though under this the snow was still dry.
Another hard crust was felt down about 30 cm. This is most likely an
older hard melt freeze crust.
Evidence from last weeks storm was noted as some thicker isolated
pockets (whales) of slab were noticed. These could be easily avoided.
Relatively good travel above the gully and along the ridge to the summit.

Snow on the upper bench was dry but wind affected and felt quite
stiff. This slab could be an issue on the north glacier ramp route....

We were back down to the toe of the AA glacier by about 11:00 and
travel was still good. Crusts in tact.
Today conditions were good. things are slowly settling, but North
aspects could still be much more winter like for a little while...

Did also notice a set of tracks heading to Silverhorn when we were
back down at the vehicles.

Cyril Shokoples MG
Jeremy Mackenzie MG
Peter Amann MG

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide, ACMG
pamann@incentre.net

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