disappeared this week from the upper elevations. Along with this has come a
big rise in the river levels and a predictable avalanche cycle.
Many loose wet avalanches and a few wet slabs have been observed throughout
the ranges, and a number of cornice falls have been reported. These
avalanches have been directly related to daytime heating and solar effect
as there has been a pretty good freeze every night and a good crust
forming. Some of the bigger faces like Stanley and the North face of
Victoria look like they are coming into fast travel shape so long as a
party was on and off while there was a good crust. A caution here that very
shaded north slopes still may have a lingering dry snow slab condition, so
local slope evaluation is still required. Travel on the glaciers will
definitely be tricky with lots of slots opening up and bridges getting
thin.
Skiers have been using the 3-31/2 for access up and down to the Ten Peaks
and there was good skiing conditions when the timing was right. Moraine
Lake is still frozen but just beginning to open up at the outlet.
The world is falling down in the afternoons so darkness approaches and
early finishes are definitely in order. The snowline is hovering around
treeline still with more snow found on the north aspects, so you can expect
some post holing in treed or shallow areas. River and stream crossings will
also be an issue with the high water in the afternoons.
Good rock climbing conditions are being reported on most lower elevation
crags with the south aspects in good shape, however there have been several
reports of more than usual rockfall, and a huge rockfall was observed on
Ha-Ling that scrubbed the normal route. (See Dave Stark's posting). So
avoiding anything that may still be effected by melting ice at the upper
elevations and being extra careful with anything suspect is probably a
very good idea.
The forecast looks good through the weekend with a system moving through to
the north that may effect Jasper on Sunday and a short lived upper trough
on that will bring some cooler weather and a chance of showers to the east
slopes on Monday.
Enjoy!
Brad White
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.