ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Archive: May 2009

Sunday, May 31, 2009

[MCR] Jasper eastern Slopes - May 31, 2009

Back at Hidden Valley today for dry windy rock climbing.

Clear skies, wind and moderate temperatures have been working away at
snowline around Jasper. South aspects getting drier with Esplanade now
looking like summer and Gargoyle looking more normal for this time of year.

Took a drive a bit further east at the end of the day to check things out
and noted that Roche a Perdrix is slowly drying out on the chimney and
Diagonal routes (still snow patches) but expect lots of snow on the scramble
route / descent. Lots of snow on the Roche Miette scramble route as well.
Roche Ronde south side is dry as is Bedson Ridge.

Closer to town expect snow on Cinquefoil. Pyramid is plastered with a large
loose wet snow avalanche coming right down from the summit.

Most everything in the Colin Range including Colin and Meisner's Ridge are
still out of shape but slowly improving. CR5A looks like you could get up
the normal route without touching snow. The scramble up Hawk still looks
snowy.

South of town looking at the north sides of the Whistlers, Marmot Basin and
Cavell the snowline is still at and below treeline. Upper Basin at Marmot
still looks like good skiing. Cavell is still a long way off being in shape
but more rock is finally beginning to show.

Forecast has possible snow up high tonight and cool temperatures tomorrow
but getting into the 20s by Tuesday. The rivers are already rising and once
the oven is turned on we should see a real rise in levels...

End conditions report / begin Hidden Valley Update:

Turret 2nd pitch now has seven bolts and one fixed piton - no more runouts.
Darrel Cattel and Cyril added a new pitch between Emporium Express and the
Turret on excellent rock. 7 bolts and one piton.

Cyril Shokoples MG
Jeremy Mackenzie MG
Peter Amann MG
-
Rescue Dynamics
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
http://www.rescuedynamics.com

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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Coast: Whistler May 31st

Several large slab avalanches have been observed in alpine terrain over the past few days in the Whistler area up to size 3, suspected to have failed on the December crust. These occurred on Flute Mountain, Decker Mountain, Gentian Peak, and across the highway near the Callaghan, all in steep rocky terrain. Last night there was some crust recovery, but none the previous night due to warm temperatures. The snow is melting fast, it was the last day of skiing on Whistler today.

Alex Geary
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
Whistler Mountain Ski Patrol

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Friday, May 29, 2009

[MCR] Ultra Brewers (Lower Brewers Buttress)-Castle Mountain

Ultra Brewers was in good shape today. All pitches are dry, although
there are some minor snow patches in the gully to the west of the
route that allows you to bypass the lower two pitches.

There is some knee to thigh deep snow patches returning from the top
of the route to the Castle Hut descent gully. Gaiters were useful.
The snow was soft today, however, some ice could be felt underneath
and an ice axe may be useful if the snow consolidates and hardens
further.

The melt is producing some significant waterfalls off both the upper
and lower buttresses of Castle and bringing down some rocks along with
the water.

Josh Briggs.
ARG ASG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Athabasca AA col route

Climbed Athabasca today via AA col route.
Started at 3:45 and though the lower patches of snow below the
glacier were somewhat soft, conditions were much better once on the glacier.
We were not sure what conditions would be like but were going to have
a look and were surprised to find things better than expected.

Good travel on a MF crust with the occasional punching through but
only 5cm or so.. The main slope leading up had some large snowballing
probably from the last few days. There was a crust on this today
though under this the snow was still dry.
Another hard crust was felt down about 30 cm. This is most likely an
older hard melt freeze crust.
Evidence from last weeks storm was noted as some thicker isolated
pockets (whales) of slab were noticed. These could be easily avoided.
Relatively good travel above the gully and along the ridge to the summit.

Snow on the upper bench was dry but wind affected and felt quite
stiff. This slab could be an issue on the north glacier ramp route....

We were back down to the toe of the AA glacier by about 11:00 and
travel was still good. Crusts in tact.
Today conditions were good. things are slowly settling, but North
aspects could still be much more winter like for a little while...

Did also notice a set of tracks heading to Silverhorn when we were
back down at the vehicles.

Cyril Shokoples MG
Jeremy Mackenzie MG
Peter Amann MG

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide, ACMG
pamann@incentre.net

Thursday, May 28, 2009

[MCR] Rock Fall Ha-Ling Peak

On Monday afternoon there was a very large rockfall on Ha-Ling peak
which seemed to sweep the lower pitches of the NE ridge route. I heard
the rumble from down by the quarry and then watched the big powder
cloud obliterate the approach slabs and the pillar on the climbers
right. I couldn't tell where the starting point was. This is several
years in a row now where big rockfall incidents have occurred early
season and have affected normal climbing routes.
Heads up and maybe stay clear of the big faces early in the season
after significant weather changes???
Dave Stark, Mountain Guide

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbias. May 28, 2009.

The big spring melt has finally begun and a fair bit of snow has
disappeared this week from the upper elevations. Along with this has come a
big rise in the river levels and a predictable avalanche cycle.

Many loose wet avalanches and a few wet slabs have been observed throughout
the ranges, and a number of cornice falls have been reported. These
avalanches have been directly related to daytime heating and solar effect
as there has been a pretty good freeze every night and a good crust
forming. Some of the bigger faces like Stanley and the North face of
Victoria look like they are coming into fast travel shape so long as a
party was on and off while there was a good crust. A caution here that very
shaded north slopes still may have a lingering dry snow slab condition, so
local slope evaluation is still required. Travel on the glaciers will
definitely be tricky with lots of slots opening up and bridges getting
thin.

Skiers have been using the 3-31/2 for access up and down to the Ten Peaks
and there was good skiing conditions when the timing was right. Moraine
Lake is still frozen but just beginning to open up at the outlet.

The world is falling down in the afternoons so darkness approaches and
early finishes are definitely in order. The snowline is hovering around
treeline still with more snow found on the north aspects, so you can expect
some post holing in treed or shallow areas. River and stream crossings will
also be an issue with the high water in the afternoons.

Good rock climbing conditions are being reported on most lower elevation
crags with the south aspects in good shape, however there have been several
reports of more than usual rockfall, and a huge rockfall was observed on
Ha-Ling that scrubbed the normal route. (See Dave Stark's posting). So
avoiding anything that may still be effected by melting ice at the upper
elevations and being extra careful with anything suspect is probably a
very good idea.

The forecast looks good through the weekend with a system moving through to
the north that may effect Jasper on Sunday and a short lived upper trough
on that will bring some cooler weather and a chance of showers to the east
slopes on Monday.

Enjoy!

Brad White
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] Jasper Conditions - Hidden Valley and Columbia Icefields - May 23 - 28

Generally warmer temperatures from Friday through until Tuesday had begun to
dry out the eastern slopes of the Rockies in Jasper Park. The snowline has
begun to retreat up the hills with south facing slopes now looking more like
they were prior to the snows that started just after the May long weekend.
In general you should think of the situation as being somewhat akin to what
you would expect in the first week of May rather than the last week in May.

Rock climbing areas that I can confirm are dry include Morro Peak, slabs and
Bluffs, Hidden Valley, Juno Wall, Rock Gardens and Shredder Reef. Anything
north facing is still in the snow zone unless it is right in the valley
bottom. Snowline along the main ranges is still below treeline on anything
except direct sun-facing slopes. Most scrambles are still in poor shape and
are best avoided for a while yet.

At the Parkers Ridge crevasse rescue practice spot on Wednesday it snowed up
to 10 additional centimeters with a poor overnight freeze making for
post-holing through the trees until you were on a thicker snowpack. This new
snow sat on top of moist snow that had not set up overnight. Trail breaking
was up to waist deep in the trees but boot top on the more consolidated open
slopes. The skiing didn't look all that great really. Noticed a few recent
slabs on the way to Jasper and back from size 1 to 2.5.

Today on the toe of the Athabasca Glacier we probed anything from 25 cm to
250 cm. This is a lot more snow that I would usually see here at this time
of year. Not much ice showing anywhere on the toe. Peaks like Athabasca, A2
and Andromeda have not been seeing ascents other than the Andromeda ski
ascent via the back side that Barry reported on earlier. Still looks like a
wintery wind loaded place on anything big. I would be careful about
venturing onto any big wind loaded features as we saw a bunch of recent
slabs above treeline with a lot of new point releases noted this afternoon
with the daytime heating.

Cyril Shokoples MG
Jeremy Mackenzie MG
Rescue Dynamics
5109 - 17A Avenue NW
Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA T6L 1K5
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
http://www.rescuedynamics.com

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Wednesday, May 27, 2009

[MCR] Coast: Natural avalanche on Whistler

Today there was an unexpected avalanche on Whistler Mountain with no involvement. The event occurred on "Horseshoe 7" in the Harmony Bowl, an area that is currently outside of the ski area boundary. The avalanche was naturally triggered, likely by a cornice fall this morning, on a slope that had been tested earlier in the week with explosives. The slope aspect is NW, 45 degrees and rocky. The avalanche was 10-15m wide x 50-150cm deep x 150m long, a small size 2, suspected to have failed on the Dec. crust. Overnight there had been a good crust recovery and it was still well before the warmest part of the day when the event occurred. The Peak Chair was closed for the day shortly afterwards.

Be careful in the backcountry, as it seems this persistent weak layer might be waking up, particularly with the rising temperatures forecast for the remainder of the week.

Alex Geary
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
Whistler Mountain Ski Patrol

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Tuesday, May 26, 2009

[MCR] Athabasca and area

> Spent May 20-23 based out of the Columbia Icefields campground with the
> Yamnuska Mountain Skills Semester group.
>
> Weather:
> The high pressure moved in on May 21st bringing clear skies, west winds
> ranging from calm in the morning to moderate gusts in the afternoons.
> Overnight temps ranged from -4 to -7 with daytime highs of +6 to +10
> degrees.
>
> Snowpack:
> Snow school at Parker Ridge on the 20th found us postholing in a winter
> snowpack. Average foot penetration of 30cm with some 100cm+ in weak spots
> around trees in the forest. HS 250cm with a Melt/Freeze crust down 30cm
> and 60cm. The usual site for crevasse rescue is sporting a large cornice
> at the lower part. We climbed Boundary peak on May 22nd and found a dry
> winter snowpack on the glacier, snow depth was 160cm at 2500m with the
> same Melt/Freeze crusts down 15cm and 30cm at the base of the Boundary/
> Athabasca col. We descended a fair bit to the skier's left of the usual
> descent, to avoid a 15cm thick windslab, instead traveling down exposed
> scree and patches of snow that were below threshold. The overnight
> freezes provided good travel in the mornings on the way to Boundary, as
> well as the Athabasca Glacier (May 22-23) and stayed relatively
> supportive in the afternoon despite the warm temps. Traveling off the
> Athabasca Glacier on May 23rd in the afternoon, foot penetration averaged
> 20cm with some punchy spots.
>
> Avalanche Activity:
> Numerous avalanches were observed on solar aspects with the daytime
> warming. Evidence of several slab avalanches in the past few days were
> observed on all aspects, ranging from size 1 to 2.5, including two size 2
> releases from the top of Parker Ridge.
>
> Synopsis:
> It seems to be the beginning of the spring cycle with the onset of this
> warm weather. Many slopes are looking fat, wintery and are waiting for
> the right trigger. We were not keen on exposing ourselves to any big snow
> slopes overhead, or to venture out onto the bigger slopes that have not
> already slid. The warm temps are beginning the process of consolidation,
> but it is only the start, and the overnight freezes are not lasting long.
> Travel in avalanche terrain will rely on the strength of the freeze and
> the ability to be down long before things start to warm up and move.

>We choose to wear and carry avalanche equipment (beacon, shovel ,probe) for
>all of our time spent in avi terrain.

>Cheers

> Jason Billing
Assistant Alpine Guide
>
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide/Assistant Ski Guide
>
>
>
>

Sunday, May 24, 2009

[MCR] Bourgeau Falls Sport Climbing

Up playing around on a few of the Sport Routes right of Borgeau Falls yesterday. The last two pitches of Borgeau Falls (ice route) are still hanging/teetering overhead and we saw some pretty big blocks crash down yesterday, can't imagine the rest will be up there for long with all the warm weather - be scary to see the rest of that thing come down. Looks like there's been plenty of rockfall along with the ice as the left over avalanche debris at the base has been hammered with rock all the way down to the bottom of the rock slabs on the approach. Be worth giving it a wide berth, if your keen on heading up there.

Those good fer nothin' Ticks were out in force too. We each pulled off about 10 or so over the course of the day.

Have fun out there, enjoy the sun!

Mike Trehearne
ACMG - Assistant Alpine Guide.
E-Mail: m_trehearne@hotmail.com
Mobile: +1.403.679.8080.

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[MCR] Mt. Lady MacDonald South-East ridge

Climbed the SE ridge of Mt. Lady MacDonald from Canadian Forks in Cougar Creek yesterday.

The rock pitches are mostly dry but we did have to wallow through some short snow patches above 2100m.

The snow is definetly melting in the front ranges above 2000m but Front Range North faces are still packing the potential for some nasty wet slides for another week at least.

Rivers are rising and it feels like spring, Hallelujah!

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Mt Andromeda, May 23

Skied up the Athabasca Glacier to the South Ridge of Mt Andromeda yesterday, May 23. We were able to skin from the toe of the glacier which was more pleasant than walking down the glacier bus tour road. Travel conditions were very good with a strong overnight freeze and supportive melt/freeze crust. Passed the second step by traversing towards Andromeda and ascending the ramp closest to the centre of the glacier (not the ramp against Andromeda). This centre ramp goes and isn't exposed to serac fall from either Andromeda or Snowdome.

We skied into a dry winter snow pack as soon as left the west facing slopes and entered the northwest facing trough that leads to the col between the unnamed 10,800 peak and Andromeda. 30-50 cm of dry wind deposited snow there. We kept to the least steep parts of the slope, descended 100 meters at one point to get to a less steep passage.

Left our skis at the col and used boot crampons to the summit, would be possible to boot pack the ridge right now (not use crampons). We didn't have ski crampons but they would be good to take as the melt/freeze crust is changing quickly with the sun.

Great corn skiing all the way down (8 hours up for us and 2 & 1/2 down!). We roped up to ski down the ramp of the 3rd step and kept the rope on till we were below the first step.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Friday, May 22, 2009

[MCR] Jasper observations - Friday May 22, 2009

First nice warm day in Jasper area in a week. Didn't wear my down jacket
once! Got warm enough that I wished I wasn't wearing my long johns...

Noted two more slab avalanches from a distance likely from the last 48
hours. One was half way up the N face of Mt. Edith Cavell that looked like a
doozy (too far away to reliably estimate size). The other was a Size 2 slab
avalanche on a NE aspect on Cinquefoil Mtn in the eastern part of the park
beginning a couple hundred meters below the ridge line in steep terrain on
an unsupported slope.

Finally got out to Hidden Valley today and managed to check out the rock
climbing and snow here. Lots of snow still hanging in at the bottom of the
routes making things muddy to start. Shady areas still had lots of snow when
we left today. First Wall is dry. The beginners and Intermediate Slabs are
dry. A lot of the main south wall is dry with a few snow patches like at the
belay stance on top of the first pitch of Bullethead Buttress. The Slab
Emporium is likely dry.

The Dark Side is snowy from top to bottom. The Back Wall / Latin Wall near
Crescent Crack was still running water from a snow patch above it. I heard
some spontaneous rockfall in that area from over on Old Salt. Also noted a
lot more loose rock on top of ledges than I am used to seeing, likely as a
result of the recent snow which is unusual in Hidden Valley. Wear your
helmet even on the sport climbs here as there is a lot of junk hanging above
your head.

Nearby June Wall was entirely dry when we drove by in the afternoon.

Anything alpine in the eastern part of the park is still very snowy but
today's sun has driven the snow line higher on S aspects. The usual
scrambles would still be in crappy shape. The ledges on the SW face of Morro
are still sporting some snow but a lot less than yesterday.

Forecast should see things drying out more during the next few days.

Cyril Shokoples MG
Rescue Dynamics
5109 - 17A Avenue NW
Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA T6L 1K5
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
http://www.rescuedynamics.com

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[MCR] Oboe Basin~ Fitzsimmons Range

Hope Everyone is having a good time these days while climbing or skiing.

Seemed like a good idea to turn the legs over out into the Park today and the skiing was really enjoyable. A few observations from that region:

* Cornices are beginning to fall out there and there will likely be further and more significant activity over the course of this forecasted warming cycle. There was a large, natural cornice fall in the McBride Range, likely within the last 24-hours, onto a large and open west-facing slope. The cornice debris was extensive and ran from the high alpine region all the way down to treeline!

* Rock faces/cliffs are attracting a lot of heat these days and helping to produce natural snow sluffing and loose-snow avalanches on adjacent slopes.

* I didn't see any slab avalanche activity out there today but certain areas are becoming very primed for a future event. I began thinking again about that weak early-December layer that haunted us all season and how all this heating is working diligently to stress that deeply-buried layer that lingers. Be very suspicious of those larger, steeper, and rocky slopes again, particularly the ones that are/have received lots of heating from the sun. Ensure you're not travelling below/near them at the peak of daytime heating.......

* As early-morning gives way to mid-morning, the snow surface is moistening with the warm temperatures and sun effect. Below this is an old crust that is moistening, as well. This crust does carry the weight of a skier during the morning and early-afternoon, but it began losing its strength after 2pm while tracksetting uphill. I felt two large 'whumphs' on some low-angled treeline terrain while ascending. Below this soft crust, currently, are plenty of wet grains of snow that don't offer much strength.

While I was traveling today, in these conditions, I thought about two things that may be food for thought: timing and terrain. 'Timing' got me thinking about the 'freeze-thaw' effect and avoiding snow that has thawed (no fun to ski and it's unstable). 'Terrain' choices varied according to how thoroughly the snow had frozen and how manageable that snow was. In essence, as the snow became more and more heated I chose gentler and gentler terrain with no exposure from above......

Wishing Everyone a great weekend..... oh! and if you do go into the hills you'll find that you're probably the only ones out there..... it's quiet. Enjoy the solitude......

Cheers,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Member
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide

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[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbias. May 22, 2009

Spring is definitely slow coming to the mountains right now and there is a
significant difference in conditions dependent upon elevation.

Above 2000 metres winter is still holding fast and slab avalanches are a
very real possibility. 30-50 cm of new snow has been reported in the last
week at the upper elevations along the divide in the Rockies and recent
slabs up to 60cm thick and as big as size three have been observed near
Jasper. Two skiers triggered an avalanche on the ramp on Mt. Athabasca last
weekend and one was swept over the seracs and fully buried but luckily
escaped injury. Storm snow over a weak crust approximately 50 cm down was
the suspected weakness in this incident. In the Selkirks, rainfall to the
upper elevations on Tuesday was responsible for a large spring cycle in
Roger's Pass with avalanches up to size 3.5 being reported. Temperature
profiles for the last month from the Wapta Icefields are showing that there
has only been one day with sustained above freezing temperatures and that
was last Sunday the 19th, so if you are planning a climbing trip to the
high mountains expect winter avalanche conditions and be prepared to
evaluate any slope for likely avalanche danger. Beacons probes and shovels
are definitely required.

On the bright side, skiing is still very good and some very quick
travelling and good ski descents are possible. Watch for sagging crevasse
bridges and low coverage in spots on the glaciers if you are heading out
there. You may have to carry your skis some on the approach but most trails
in both the Rockies and Columbias are still snow covered near treeline.

Temperatures are forecasted to warm to the mid teens again this weekend and
there is a good possibility for a prolonged above freezing spell to the
ridge tops through next week, so there will likely be one more big spring
avalanche cycle at the higher elevations when the heat finally arrives.

Lower elevations still have a little snow, particularly on the north
aspects, but the south facing crags in both the Rockies and Selkirks are
getting some traffic. Early season loose rocks are a hazard and some of the
cracks are still wet. Yamnuska is in good shape but be prepared for snow on
the descent.

So the best choice for the weekend would be to have one more stab at winter
at the higher elevations, or look for summer on something south facing and
down low. Alternately, the forecast for Penticton looks great with 26
degrees and sunny.

Brad White
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide

Thursday, May 21, 2009

[MCR] Jasper Rock climbs - May 21, 2009

Out at Morro Slabs again today for a cold windy day. Despite a lot more sun
than the last three days we did not see a big retreat of the snowline up the
peaks north and east of town. Snowline in the eastern slopes is still only
three or four hundred feet above the valley floor and a lot of new snow is
evident everywhere. Noted a fair amount of sluffing (point releases) in the
new snow plus the one Size three slab we noted and reported this morning on
Indian Ridge. (See Mike Eder's report today for the Icefield's perspective.)

Any of the scrambles in Kane's book are very snowy at the moment and likely
best to give that a miss this weekend. Miette is a mess and Perdrix should
be avoided by any route. As for the Colin Range - forget about it. Even the
SW face on Morro still has snow on all the ledges including at the base of
the face. Hidden Valley still has visible snow on the ledges as well. Morro
Bluffs is slowly drying off but there may be more than the normal amount of
rockfall from above as the new snow melts off. No news from the Rock Gardens
but it would have been frigid today as the wind kept things very cool.

Cyril Shokoples
Jeremy MacKenzie
Peter Amann

http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
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[MCR] Jasper Conditions

Information for the MCR
Columbia icefields area from May 14 – May 20, 2009

Moderate to strong SW winds occurred in the icefields over the May long
weekend with relatively warm temperatures dipping below zero overnight.
Almost 40cm of snow fell during the week with most coming on May 18 and
May 19. Higher alpine locations will surely have received more snow with
an estimate of 15 – 20 +cm overnight for May 19/20.

Significant wind transport occurred from Friday through the weekend under a
warm wind developing slab avalanche conditions in the higher alpine on East
to North aspects. A climber accidental slab avalanche occurred on the bench
route of Mt Athabasca on Saturday May 16 (refer to MCR posted on that
day)with other alpine slab avalanches to size 2 observed in the alpine
through the weekend. Debris from a recent windslab to sz 2 was observed on
Tuesday that released on the silverhorn and ran down the normal route up
Athabasca.

May 19 saw the jasper townsite receive 15 – 20cm of heavy wet snow which
was widespread throughout the valley all the way East to the boundary and
south through the icefields area. This indicates larger overnight deposits
in the higher alpine around the townsite.

Winds:
Mod – Str SW May 16/17
L NW – NE winds May 18/19
L – Mod SW May 19/20

Temps Parker upper
Max 4.5
Min -6.8 (cooler temps on May 20)

Snow (based on parker study plot telemetry)
Light snow flurries on May 15-16 redistributed by Mod/St SW winds
15-20cm on May 18 & 19 under L – Mod SW winds.

Prepared by Public Safety Warden Mike Eder

Brad White IFMGA
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Jasper Environs - Avalanche Observation

Heads UP if climbing or skiing in Jasper!

Thursday May 21, 2009: Noted a Size 2.5 (possibly 3) in the North bowl of
Indian Ridge (west of the Whistlers) that likely came out yesterday some
time. Crown is probably 50 or 60 cm deep with a crown that extends through
an open bowl and into rocky terrain several hundred meters wide. This is
likely all the new snow from the last three days.

Beacons on, shovel and probe back in the pack, eyes wide open... Avaluator
at the ready! It is back to winter for the time being.

Cyril Shokoples MG
Rescue Dynamics
5109 - 17A Avenue NW
Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA T6L 1K5
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
http://www.rescuedynamics.com

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[MCR] Jasper Winter Update 2 - Wednesday May 20, 2009

A bit more snow yesterday (May 20) in Jasper Park with another couple of
centimeters on the ground at Morro slabs in the morning. Cool temperatures
and intermittent flurries made for almost no improvement during the day even
during the brief breaks in the cloud. Snow was noted on the face of Morro
Peak which is almost always dry and Hidden Valley from a distance also had
snow on the routes (as of 5PM).

South facing scrambles like Esplanade and Mount Greenoch were still
blanketed in white with the snow line on that side of the valley being only
perhaps 100m above the valley floor. Elsewhere the snow in the valley floor
is gone but just above the valley variable amounts remain. The Eastern
slopes looked pasted. Great for photography.

Couldn't see much of the main ranges in cloud but expect more snow there.
Saw a few point release sluffs in the new snow in the Victoria Cross Ranges
and elsewhere but in actual fact observations were very limited. Noted new
cornices on a few ridges in the Victoria Cross Range.

Forecast for today is high temperatures in the single digits so I am not
expecting any kind of big improvement for the weekend. Anything involving
elevation of any kind will have new snow on it. Mount Colin looks very cold
and snowy this morning. I suspect that even some of the cragging will be
less than stellar for a couple of days. Hiking will likely be in mud and
snow for a bit yet too.

Cyril Shokoples
Mountain Guide
Rescue Dynamics
5109 - 17A Avenue NW
Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA T6L 1K5
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
http://www.rescuedynamics.com

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Tuesday, May 19, 2009

[MCR] Jasper winter report - May 19, 2009

Brrrrrr

The weather in Jasper has been rather white in the last 48 hours. Sunday was
extremely windy with rain and snow blowing in in late afternoon / early
evening. Monday saw light snow falling to within about 100m of the valley
floor then retreating up a few hundred meters with daytime warming... Then
BANG!

Today (Tuesday) I woke up with 20cm of new snow on the picnic table outside.
This melted back in town during the day with a few clearing patches in the
clouds. Looking around during the few breaks showed a very white Colin Range
and Skyline Trail. Reports from the East end of the park are of heavier
accumulations. Things were looking pretty snowy prior to this recent storm
and after chatting with Peter and Jer we think things are about a couple of
weeks behind schedule as far as drying off are concerned.

Winds were quite impressive the other day but we didn't go into the field
today so I can't really tell whether all this new snow has been blown into
yet another slab. The reports in recent weeks of slab activity in the
Icefields area would sure make me consider that this is more a return to
winter and avalanche thinking rather than just "spring think".

Forecast is for a chance of a bit more snow tonight but we shall see. We'll
try to update in the next few days as we head into the hills tomorrow for
the next few days.

Cyril Shokoples
Mountain Guide
Rescue Dynamics
http://www.rescuedynamics.com

Monday, May 18, 2009

[MCR] Heart Mountain Loop.

Up and around the Heart Mountain loop today. Snowed for most of the day, but wet enough that even up high we saw only a few cm's of accumulation along the upper ridge. Freezing level came right down to within about 100ft or so of the Trans Canada. The snow on the upper ridge was mostly supportive but we did punch though in the odd spot here and there - seems like a lot has melted off since Barry's post last week, but I don't think it'd be a ton of fun on a warm sunny day up there just yet. Still be a lot of post-holing going on. Guessing about another week of warm weather should sort it out.

Mike Trehearne
ACMG - Assistant Alpine Guide.
E-Mail: m_trehearne@hotmail.com

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Saturday, May 16, 2009

[MCR] Columbia Icefields, May 10-16, 2009

Spent the last 7 days enjoying the peaks of the Columbia Icefields with Terry Palechuck and a group from TRU. We were able to climb North Twin, Stuttfield, Kitchner and Snowdome but got turned around on the E ridge of Columbia due to weather and wind loaded snow.

We had pretty wintery conditions with temperatures between -1 and -10'C throughout the trip and about 30-40cm of new snow during the middle of the week. Winds were moderate to strong out of the W over the past several days and I would be quite cautious of wind loaded slopes in this area over the next little while until things settle out a bit. We did not see much for recent avalanche activity but had very limited visibility throughout the week. Good snow coverage up high on the icefields and still waiting for spring above 2700m.

We entered and exited via the climbers left route on the Athabasca Glacier and this worked well although it also had some fresh serac activity just above the track this morning as we left. It still felt a little less threatening than the right hand approach. Good corn skiing down the Athabasca to the car!

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.conradjanzenguiding.com

[MCR] mt athabasca avalanche standard route-addendum-

To add to my previous MCR report. The size 2 avalanche on the standard ramp
on mt Athabasca occurred above the Serac cliffs. It was triggered by two
skiers on their way up. One was swept 200m down, over the serac cliff, and
fully buried 15cm under. The other person slid for 30m but stopped short of
the serac cliffs and was buried waist deep. They both were able to dig
themselves out, no injuries. They report 2 weaknesses in the snowpack at
this location upon their approach, one down 40-50cm was the culprit, and
another 1m down that did not release. 70% of the ramp is still in place.

Other parties coming off Columbia Icefields report intense wind transport
last night with slab development on lee aspects. Temperatures ranged from
-4 to -8 yet they said it felt "warm".

Garth Lemke
Public Safety Specialist
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide

Spécialiste, Sécurité publique
Guide de ski auxiliaire, Association des guides de montagne canadiens

Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Garth.Lemke@pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-6158
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-6135
Cellular Phone | Téléphone cellulaire 780-852-8811
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper

Think GREEN! Please don't print this email unless you really need to.
Soyez ÉCOLO! N'imprimez ce courriel que si vous devez vraiment le faire.

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] mt athabasca standard ramp avalanche

At approximately 1300hrs on May 16th -Saturday-, a size 2 avalanche
approximately 75m wide and 200m long was triggered (unconfirmed with
possible involvement) by 2 skiers on the climbers left area of the Mt
Athabasca standard ramp. The past 4 days has brought 20cm+ of snow in the
alpine with winds. The right side of the ramp has not slid.

In addition, an experienced party turned around today at the top of the
Athabasca glacier / Columbia Icefields reporting 70km/hr winds developing
slab conditions.

Garth Lemke
Public Safety Specialist
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide

Spécialiste, Sécurité publique
Guide de ski auxiliaire, Association des guides de montagne canadiens

Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Garth.Lemke@pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-6158
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-6135
Cellular Phone | Téléphone cellulaire 780-852-8811
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper

Think GREEN! Please don't print this email unless you really need to.
Soyez ÉCOLO! N'imprimez ce courriel que si vous devez vraiment le faire.

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Thursday, May 14, 2009

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued May 14th, 2009

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued May 14th, 2009

Winter still rules in the Rockies and the Columbias. It is snowy toonie-sized flakes in Banff this Thursday evening, the third day of snowfall in all areas. The snowline is staying just above valley bottom and slowing the transition to spring and summer activities. The story is similar in the Columbia Mountains, with reports of 25 cm of snow on the Illecillewaet Neve mid-week and the snowline hovering around 1500 m.

The forecast for the Rockies is for it to be cloudy on Friday with some sun on the weekend before rain sets back in for Monday. Further west in the Columbias there is not even that glimmer of hope with clouds and showers forecast for the next several days.

This all means that we may need to be thinking ski caps rather than hard hats. Snow coverage and ski travel remain good in alpine terrain although if you need to start your travels below 1800 m you might be walking to get to it. Roadside skiing is still available (barely) at Bow Summit, K-Country in the Burstall Pass area, Sunwapta Pass (Columbia Icefields) and at Rogers Pass. Once you're in the 2200 m range expect decent coverage. Ski quality will be variable, it may be good in the short term at high elevations and especially north aspects but for sure as soon as the temperatures get to it you will be dealing with mashed potatoes or worse. With above freezing temperatures expect plenty of loose snow avalanche action on all steeper slopes. It will take a couple of days of melt-freeze cycling to get good travel on crusts again.

Opportunities for other mountain activities will be limited. Lift skiing is still an option for those so inclined, and it is Slush Cup weekend. Climbs on snow and ice will have a lot of exposure to large sluffs of the new snow through the weekend and will need to be given a miss. Rock climbs will be soggy until the sun comes out - expect some low elevation sunny crags in the Rockies to dry out by Saturday afternoon if the forecast holds true and Sunday could have a wider variety of options. But remember, if you can think of a place to go chances are the bears have thought of it too - they are out in force in all the ranges (we saw a nice griz at Bow Summit on Wednesday).

There is a reason that the mountains are quiet at this time of year - it's mud season and anyone who can is hightailing it for drier and warmer climes: Skaha sounds inviting with a decent forecast. If you can't do that this weekend it will be worth investigating low elevation rock climbs (wear your lid), a flattish glacier ski tour or a tall cold one in front of the flatscreen.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

[MCR] Bow Summit

On the way to Bighorn Reserve this morning there was above freezing temperatures, overcast and looked like no freeze. It seemed like scrambling was the thing to do with the south facing ridges along David Thompson Hwy looking dry and inviting.

Returning this afternoon though was a different story -- heavy (2-4 cm/hr) snowfall and temperatures hovering around zero. At about 4:30pm, having the skis in the car, I went for a hot lap at Bow Summit. With 5 cm of heavy new snow and isothermal (wet to ground) conditions to within 30m of the "ridge" (2250m?) I was pleasantly surprised that the travel conditions were OK and the skiing didn't totally suck!

Snow on the ground all the way from Bow Summit to Canmore, about 8 cm of the heavy wet stuff on our deck right now.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe

Sunday, May 10, 2009

[MCR] Heart Mountain Traverse

Went up the NE ridge of Heart Mountain from Heart Creek yesterday, May 9. Lots of snow above 5500 feet. I fixed handlines twice for my 6 British soldiers and they were happy to have them. The horseshoe ridgeline has 1 meter of snow drifted onto everywhere, our thanks to other parties who have done the traverse and kept steps established. Having said that we did break through the crust every 30 steps and end up sunk to the crotch.

Scrambled over Yamnuska on May 7th, much less snow there, if I were to do it again today I'd take a light ice axe to chip the foot compressed ice off of the important footholds.

Spring will get here ...

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide

barryb3@telus.net

1 403 609 4615

cell 1 403 609 1321

Friday, May 8, 2009

[MCR] Frisby Creek May 2-8, near Revelstoke

Just finished a week with a Thompson Rivers University group in Frisby Creek, northwest of Revelstoke.

We were ski touring in Frisby Creek May 2-8.

Stability was generally good, with low avalanche danger in the mornings. Avalanche danger rose to high most afternoons with warm temperatures. Lots of avalanche activity on rock slabs with many glide slabs releasing. Over the week approximately 50cm of new snow fell at 2100m. We were camped at 1500m. Travel below 1500m is not recommended (isothermal, lots of avalanche activity, and many areas down valley without any snow). No slab avalanches noted, just moist point releases and glide crack releases. Whumphing above 2200m on a northeast aspect glacier, about 40cm of new snow, and steady southwest winds stopped us about 30m vertical short of getting into a col on May 6^th. Felt like a winter upper snowpack with a clean easy shear down 30 cm and wind slab stiffness above that.

Good travel in the mornings with a light freeze most nights. Ski crampons were very useful to help climb out of the valley in the mornings. Boot top powder on the north aspects above 2000m over a variety of crusts, and corn snow on the south aspects. Generally very good ski quality considering it is May in the Monashees! A light crust over isothermal snow below 1700m made for some interesting skiing back to camp some days. We climbed and skied several peaks in the area.

Less snow than average on the glaciers, but glacier travel felt quite reasonable with a rope on. Probed 3+ meters on most of the glaciers.

Early starts (up at 04:30 each morning) and early finishes (back at camp by 13:30 most days).

There is still winter up there if you can get up high. Beautiful weather in the valley in Revelstoke this afternoon, good for rock climbing. Must be Spring.

Terry Palechuk

Ski Guide

Jordy Shepherd

Mountain Guide

www.PeakAlpine.com

Thursday, May 7, 2009

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary issued May 7th, 2009.

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued May 7th, 2009.

All the usual sources of public avalanche bulletins in the Summary region have stopped for the season. Be aware that some agencies will issue special bulletins in the event of an unusual avalanche cycle. Also, the vast majority of operations involved with avalanche risk management in Western Canada are no longer making observations in the field. At this time of the year we are trying to summarize conditions for a very large area with very few observations. Assume some areas will have dramatically different conditions than the areas we talk about.

Spring has been slow to assert itself. Generally, conditions have been cool and fairly dry in most of the ranges. Having said that, there are reports of some significant snowfalls on the west side of the Monashees last night, may 6th, and the snowline was still fairly low as of this afternoon. Above 1900m in the Columbia Mountains the government "snow pillow" measurement stations show the snowpack to be continuing to grow. The graph also show very clearly that this is approximately the "historic" high snowpack period and that the BIG melt is likely to be here soon. Rivers are still fairly low but you should assume they will be rising sometime around when the pillows start shrinking. These graphs can be observed at www.env.gov.bc.ca/rfc/river_forecast/snowp.htm

Generally in the Columbias above 1300m it is still a snowy world. Isothermal conditions(a generally weak and warm snowpack) are reported at the Rogers Pass itself as of this afternoon. Very difficult to say what conditions will be like for weekend skiing or mountaineering in the Columbias. There are many variables that could effect the snow quality and the avalanche hazard this weekend. In the next 48 hrs in the Columbias, I am guessing that in some locations it will snow, rain, be windy, cloudy, clearing, cold, hot and sunny. Not a classic recipe for high quality, low avalanche hazard skiing:) With an open mind and a bit of luck there may be some fine traveling to be had this weekend but don't be too surprised if it really sucks in places too.

In the Rockies, some snow fell today in the Bow Valley down to approximately 2100m and one centimeter is reported in the past 24hrs at Sunshine Village Ski area.

Snow has been very slow to melt above 2000m, even on the East slope of the Rockies. North facing bowls have continuous snow much lower than that. Reports from Jasper Park wardens indicate patchy snow above 1500m on the East slope and more consistent snow the further west you go. I have seen no reports from higher elevations along the Rockies Divide. Obviously, the higher and the closer to the Divide you go, the less info anyone has and the more backcountry travelers will have to make their own complete observations of the conditions to make an informed decision.

Front range scrambling looked better around Banff than Canmore a couple of days ago. Low elevation scrambling and rock climbing and perhaps corn skiing are probably the safest bets for the weekend in the Rockies. In the cool hours of the morning, icefields mountaineering and some alpine routes may be possible, but, as in the Columbias a wide variety of conditions may be encountered depending where you go and when. Personally, I wouldn't stick my neck out too far this weekend as it is seems highly possible that I would be surprised at some point by a condition I had hoped not too encounter. i.e., wet rock, wet snow, a soggy cornice, rockfall, weak crevasse bridges etc.

Currently in the summary area,

it ain't quite winter and it ain't quite spring,

and there ain't many people doing the high mountain thing.

Keep your eyes wide open and spread the word if you see anything, good or bad.

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

[MCR] French Creek Bear

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Headed out to do the French - Robertson traverse today. Great conditions with a supportive crust with 1cm of new snow on top. At the first creek crossing (15 minutes from car) I encountered very fresh, good sized bear tracks. That was enough to turn me around in that narrow valley.

If it's not one thing; it's another.

Rob Orvig

Mtn. Guide

Sunday, May 3, 2009

[MCR] Grassy

Spent the last few days doing some relaxing climbing
at Grassy lakes allot of people were out enjoying what was a super nice day yesterday.

The trail down from the top has lots of snow before and some below the stairs of the rectory
as well as some ice and snow down from the white imperialist area.

Just a few notes, for some reason Tiques (ticks to some) are quite numerous this year.
I had not experienced them on the west side before. Just removed one from my back and delt with them all day yesterday.
So if your bit, remember to keep the critter. Check out this link for info: www.phac-aspc.gc.ca/id-mi/lime-fs-eng.php

On an other note, a good sport route,found at the right most side of Graceland about (11a), i believe set up last year, has some questionable bolts. The route is a bit dirty but fun climbing and nice overall addition.

The first three are well past perpendicular placements.. this dramatically decrease their shear strength.
As well the 4th and 6th bolts (D) length are in rather airy type stone.

Cheers
P.Delaney
ACMG AAG

Friday, May 1, 2009

[MCR] Columbia Icefield - Twins

Spent the last 5 days on the Columbia Icefield, in the Twins/Stutfield area (April 27 - May 1). We climbed N, S and W Twin; Twins Tower; Stutfield W & E; and Kitchener on the way out today.

Up until today it was pretty wintry up there with overnight lows in the -20 range. Lots of dry snow, mostly wind affected, making for some secure bucket steps but also making us wonder a bit at what layers may be still lurking deeper in the snowpack. No avalanche activity noted in the area though and on the surface we mostly were dealing with windcrusts. There is a lot of snow waiting to peel off though as soon as it warms up and I would be leery of steep, sunny slopes on the first few hot days. It was starting to get cooked up there today, so a melt-freeze cycle may be beginning.

Of note was the thin nature of the snowpack up there, it seemed more crevassy than normal to me. Lots of sags and bergschrunds in particular were quite evident. Looking at the trench towards Columbia it seemed more crevassed than I remember it. There also was a lot of ice exposed on the peaks, especially on the Stutfields, and the initial slopes of the S Twin had thin snow over ice so we had to pitch it out over 100 m of ice climbing there.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.alpinism.com

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued May 1st, 2009.

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued May 1st, 2009.

This is the first ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for 2009. The Canadian Avalanche Centre and Glacier National Park published their last regular avalanche bulletin for the season last week. Banff, Kootenay and Yoho are still publishing bulletins. They all deserve a pat on the back for doing a fine job over a long, often scary winter. Our goal is to maintain weekly summaries until the Canadian Avalanche Centre starts producing regular bulletins again in the fall.

The deep instabilities that caused so many avalanche involvements and fatalities this winter have ALMOST disappeared. There will, however, continue to be occasional large, nasty avalanches stepping down to those layers or to the ground when warm temperatures finally roll into the mountains or when slopes are subjected to large triggers such as cornice falls, snowmobiles or big hucks.

Spring has arrived but it has recently had a cold, cold heart. In the Rockies, the warm temperatures and sunny skies of mid April warmed and settled the snowpack dramatically. Recent temperatures as low as -18c and brisk winds in the Rockies alpine have left the snowpack with a seriously hard surface. Some new snow fell east of the Divide earlier this week and shallow wintry windslabs were/are a potential problem in the east slope Alpine and even around Lake Louise. Around the Wapta, Columbia Icefields and areas west it has been cold, dry and windy and holding an edge was often the main issue. There was occasionally some corn snow on steep south facing slopes in the afternoon below treeline but the rest of the world was rockhard. Travel was fast but ski and boot crampons felt pretty good on even quite moderate terrain and going for an ugly slide was a serious possibility.

There have been very limited reports from the Columbia Mountains. Generally, it sounds like it has been unseasonably cool and there has been variable amounts of recent storm snow throughout the Columbias falling on a spring snowpack. Avalanche hazard has predominately been the result of the wind effect on these sporadic snowfalls and most importantly, the amount of daytime warming. Again, LARGE avalanches are still a distinct possibility in the Columbia mountains, especially if we get a dramatic, rapid warming in the next couple of weeks.

Glacier travel conditions are generally good and even excellent at the right time and place throughout the Rockies and Columbias. The shallow early season snowpack and some big early season winds have however, left some areas with shallow snowbridges. Warm temperatures are going to weaken the snowpack(especially the thin areas) and make the crevasse bridges a real problem. I seem to have been touring on the glaciers with my probe out a lot this spring as I have less faith than usual in my visual observations of the glacier snowcover.

Snow fell overnight in some locations on the East slope of the Rockies. Yamnuska had a serious frosting this morning and at noon it was still white. Also at noon I saw a big wet slough pour off the cliffs to the climbers right of Goat Buttress and a BIG wet slough pouring down the gullies right of Guide's Route on the East End of Mt. Rundle. Hard to believe it will all be gone by saturday as it is only 12 Celsius in Canmore at noon friday. Could be a poor weekend for those cliffs, the Ghost River area and for Front Ranges scrambling.

It could be an excellent weekend for low elevation cragging, corn snow skiing, icefields mountaineering and maybe even some well timed, fast moving alpine climbing. Get out there and enjoy it but keep an alert eye out for a rapid or prolonged warming and it's effect on the snowpack, cornices, crevasse bridges and rock.

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

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