[MCR] Wicked wanda

Climbed Wicked Wanda Yesterday, (or attempted), but retreated after the 1st pitch because of very strong winds.  I have heard that the climb was  not in great shape, but I have climbed it before and is has way more ice than when I climbed it.  Normally you climb the right side, but the roof is so big, that you have to climb on the left.  The ice on second pitch appears to be good, but just technical climbing.  I think Wicked Wanda is always a bit hard for its grade because of the technical nature of the route.

Speaking of wind-I must relay a wild experience I had with a client on the David Thompson Hwy. last Fri. after climbing 5.7.0.  While finishing the last pitch, I felt extremely strong winds and didn’t feel comfortable using the trees to secure the rap, so we walked off to the right. Walking down thru the forest we observed large mature trees broken in 1/2 and some were rooted right from the ground. We hurried out and got on the road asap. As we walked, we noticed a vehicle in a totally different spot than I parked my truck, so assumed it was another vehicle. As we approached it, we realized it was indeed my truck and it was between 100-150ft away from the original spot, with the brakes on,wheels forward, in exactly the same way I left it. We studied the  area and there were no tires tracks in the snow, no skid marks,no damage,doors locked, everything in tack.
We were able to drive out on to the road in 4x4, and left perplexed. The only conclusion we can come to is, there must’ve been a localized tornado that picked it up and put it down gently....or perhaps we entered the twilight zone...or UFO’s really do exist!
Watch out for bright shiny objects in the sky,
Play safe.

Marco Delesalle
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide