Climbed Spray River Falls yesterday. Quite cold up there all day with suprisingly brittle ice once you top the pillar on the crux pitch. I cleaned a bunch of ripe dinner plates off of the bulge. Ice was so brittle and dry on top that I had to drill abalakov holes uphill or they would choke with ice crystals falling back into them from the tube of the screw.
Great day.
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures