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Friday, February 13, 2009

[MCR] ice conditions

Been working with Simon the past 5 days multipitching.
Some observations on the routes we climbed:
Field- Masseys good but kind of harder on the left with a good sneak route on the right
Guinness- hooked out
Carlsberg- fat and travelled
Ghost- easier access then earlier in the season- we got in with a Toyota Rav.  Stumpland is still a bit tricky and icy but with a spotter okay. North Ghost no problem to 39, South Ghost denied by a frozen/deep crossing a couple kms from the parking.
Valley of the Birds- great...Seagull, Albatross, and Yellow Bird all good, as well as Eagle although it looks super sun scorched, the ice underneath is still good.  A little hollow sounding for the first 15 meters of the pillar...might not last tooooo long.
This House of Sky- well travelled, and all rigged with bolted anchors to make ascent and descent super casual! 
Golden- Pretty Nuts and Riverview good.  Essondale Right, pillar felt thin and fragile- didn't climb it.
Professors- Fatter than usual...and busier than usual...12 people in total on it on a Tuesday!!!

Sarah Hueniken
Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures