I hope this finds Everyone enjoying all the recent snow that we've had.
The snow that fell beginning Sunday and ended overnight Wednesday and into Thursday morning gave the mountains 60cm+ of the white stuff in the Whistler area. All this snow fell on top of weak snow that consisted of sugary facets, crusts (on sunny aspects), and surface hoar (the solid/frozen equivalent of dew). During the peak of this storm, and immediately afterward, there was a widespread avalanche cycle in the mountains ~ all initiating on the above-noted weak layers. There were many slopes that did not release at that time - which makes one suspicious and a bit more cautious. Since then, the snowpack has settled a fair amount but much of the testing still indicates some inconsistency (for example: there is still 'whumpfing' of the snowpack in treeline areas ~ a sign that things are still sensitive in spots); it really depends upon where you are testing the snow. Some tests show strengthening and others highlight the need for a measure of caution. The confidence remains on the low side for large and steep slopes in the alpine and at treeline. Unfortunately, it looks like there isn't much time for all this snow to cure a little more because the next round of weather/snow/wind is knocking at the door at the time of this writing...... meaning that the hazard is about to increase again with the forecasted winds/snowfall.
The last snowfall is helping to add cover to the mountains but there are two other hazards that are still on my mind to-date...... first, there are still many rocks hiding just below the surface of the snow so please be careful of, for example, exiting off of the glaciers and into terrain with no glaciated cover...... second, there are still many open or partially-bridged crevasses. In low or flat light, these hazards are difficult to see. If you plan to be travelling in glaciated terrain this season, then it would be prudent to have access to a rope, glacier-rescue kit, and to seek the knowledge of how to use this kit effectively/preventitively.
It's snowing outside right now..... looks like winter may have finally arrived.......
Wishing Everyone safe travels,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Member
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
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Saturday, February 28, 2009
Friday, February 27, 2009
[MCR] Rutherford and Ryan River Drainages.....
A lot of new snow and some strong winds recently have produced a widespread natural avalanche cycle, most notably around treeline and into the alpine, that has occured over the past two days with many different types of terrain features producing various sizes of slab avalanches (many large).
Some of the type of terrain that had performed included steep, rocky, and 'unsupported' terrain (slopes that terminate above a cliffband or steep, bulging slopes, for example). Terrain in the lee of ridges (where winds have been depositing snow) and terrain with rolls (convex) had released. Also, steep-sided glacial morraines had released and steeply-walled gullies, too. Activity had occured on many aspects.
Of note, there was 'whumpfing' in shallow, rocky ridgecrest areas and around islands of trees on westerly and south-westerly slopes. 'Whumpfing' indicates that the snowpack is still fragile in places.
The snowpack remains sensitive in many locations and it's especially important to be wary of slopes that have not avalanched. Be very careful about large slopes, exposure to slopes hanging above you, and slopes below cornices. It is prudent to keep to safe terrain right now until all this new snow has had time to improve. What makes the current situation a little tricky right now is that there is some 'variability' in the snowpack ~ meaning that the snow at different elevations/aspects is displaying slightly different characteristics because of the different layering in the snowcover; essentially, there isn't quite enough uniformity, yet. And, much of the terrain out there is still ripe for producing sizeable avalanches. Please continue to enjoy the hills safely by selecting terrain without exposure to avalanches.....
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Member
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
Twice the fun— Share photos while you chat with Windows Live Messenger.
Some of the type of terrain that had performed included steep, rocky, and 'unsupported' terrain (slopes that terminate above a cliffband or steep, bulging slopes, for example). Terrain in the lee of ridges (where winds have been depositing snow) and terrain with rolls (convex) had released. Also, steep-sided glacial morraines had released and steeply-walled gullies, too. Activity had occured on many aspects.
Of note, there was 'whumpfing' in shallow, rocky ridgecrest areas and around islands of trees on westerly and south-westerly slopes. 'Whumpfing' indicates that the snowpack is still fragile in places.
The snowpack remains sensitive in many locations and it's especially important to be wary of slopes that have not avalanched. Be very careful about large slopes, exposure to slopes hanging above you, and slopes below cornices. It is prudent to keep to safe terrain right now until all this new snow has had time to improve. What makes the current situation a little tricky right now is that there is some 'variability' in the snowpack ~ meaning that the snow at different elevations/aspects is displaying slightly different characteristics because of the different layering in the snowcover; essentially, there isn't quite enough uniformity, yet. And, much of the terrain out there is still ripe for producing sizeable avalanches. Please continue to enjoy the hills safely by selecting terrain without exposure to avalanches.....
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Member
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
Twice the fun— Share photos while you chat with Windows Live Messenger.
Thursday, February 26, 2009
[MCR] Peyto
Plowed out from Peyto Hut yesterday (Feb 25). 40 cm of storm snow on the glacier with snow still falling in the morning. Cold out side the hut, -25 C. Couldn't see much of anything until we were off of the glacier, then just some storm sloughing and one size one surface slab off of the steep morriane, N aspect, 7000 feet (close to the boot packing below the glacial research hut). Surprised not to hear anything running. We remotely triggered a size one storm slab on a small convex roll at 6500 feet E aspect, 30 cm crown, 10 meter wide, ran 7 meters on the storm/old snow interface.
Poor coverage below 6500 feet, we all hit some rocks. Good coverage and travel across Peyto Lake, then horrid trail breaking -to ground half of the time- from the lake to the highway -an exhausting exercise.
Great ski quality on the 24th from Bow Hut over to Peyto, and even some face shots yesterday, be magic up on the icefield today.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
[MCR] Johnston Canyon
Was climbing in the canyon yesterday and noticed quite a few of the pillars have very fragile looking features (blobs, daggers) growing on them from the recent warm weather.
These will be become very weak during the current cold snap (today and tomorrow) and are likely to collapse. Some were small but many of them were quite large and would hit anyone standing around at the bottom of the guardrail.
Heads up if you are heading in there!
Cheers
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide
Alpine Guide
Monday, February 23, 2009
[MCR] Selkirks: Valkyr range
Waiting for the heli ride out of the Valkyr Range in the southern Selkirks on the first snowy and foggy day in awhile.
6 cm of snow from overnight lies on a newly buried surface hoar and facet layer (5-20 cm thick), and thin suncrusts on solar aspects (which may have surface hoar on top of it). We'll be calling these interfaces Feb 23 I guess and it will give us the normal March dog's breakfast of a snowpack.
Over the week and previous to this snowfall we found there had been no change from previous reports with both the Jan 27 and December facets being unreactive to skiers. This will probably change as more load is applied, Jan 27 will almost certainly wake up again and the deeper facets will need to be thought about until the summer.
Light snowfall amounts are forecast for the week so the next avalanche cycle looks like it may sneak up on us rather than pounce. Heads up.
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
Stefan Poirier
Assistant Ski Guide
[MCR] Whiteman Falls and Red Man Soars Guiding Permission
About a month ago, D.Stark raised the question of not having guiding permission into
Thanks Dave for bringing the question forward.
George Field
Public Safety Specialist
Mountain guide
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Sunday, February 22, 2009
[MCR] sun in Haffner
Had a couple of ice screws melt out to the point that they could be pulled out on a couple of top roping anchors in Haffner today. We them backed up with Abalakovs, probably a good idea if you are top roping for awhile. The sun is gaining punch.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
[MCR] Wapta Icefields
Spent the last 6 days on the Wapta Icefields with a crew from the University of Alberta. We entered and exited via Bow Lake and spent the duration of our trip in the Bow Hut and Peyto Hut regions. We spent many days working on skills and also climbed to the upper ridge on Mt. Habel and the summit of Mt. Gordon.
The weather was fantastic for 5 of the 6 days with temperatures ranging from -7 to -22. Generally the skies were clear with the occasional few clouds. The exception was Thursday Feb 19 when approximately 5cm of snow fell during the day with moderate winds from the west. On most aspects this new snow stuck well to the previous surfaces below 2800m. Above this altitude most of the snow did not stick as well to the previous hard slab conditions. This new snow improved the ski quality dramatically, and we found enjoyable turns in many areas below 2800m. However, in the higher alpine there is still dramatic sastrugi (hard raised wind effected ripples) up to 80cm high, making for very difficult skiing and track-setting.
The snowpack varies dramatically in depth from over 200cm in some areas and as low as 90cm on the glaciers. The entire region is dramatically wind scoured and most winward aspects are completely bare of snow. The snowpack in treeline and alpine areas is characterized by weak basal layers (facets) and a very stiff midpack. We did find moderate compression tests down 25cm on a facet layer, but this seems quite isloated and not reactive to ski cutting. The last two days produced surface hoar and surface facetting, that could be an issue in the future if more snow falls. Avalanche activity was limited to two small slabs and two smalll sluffs, all from very steep lee features. Avalanche Hazard through the period remained at MODERATE in the alpine and LOW at treeline and below. Travel conditions in the alpine are excellent and below tree line travel is easy as long as you stay on the hard packed trails. On approach from Bow Lake there is a significant amount of bare ice on the lake and up the creek to the base of the canyon making for slippery but manageable travel. The sunny skies brought out people by the dozens on Saturday morning!
Play safe!
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Twice the fun— Share photos while you chat with Windows Live Messenger.
The weather was fantastic for 5 of the 6 days with temperatures ranging from -7 to -22. Generally the skies were clear with the occasional few clouds. The exception was Thursday Feb 19 when approximately 5cm of snow fell during the day with moderate winds from the west. On most aspects this new snow stuck well to the previous surfaces below 2800m. Above this altitude most of the snow did not stick as well to the previous hard slab conditions. This new snow improved the ski quality dramatically, and we found enjoyable turns in many areas below 2800m. However, in the higher alpine there is still dramatic sastrugi (hard raised wind effected ripples) up to 80cm high, making for very difficult skiing and track-setting.
The snowpack varies dramatically in depth from over 200cm in some areas and as low as 90cm on the glaciers. The entire region is dramatically wind scoured and most winward aspects are completely bare of snow. The snowpack in treeline and alpine areas is characterized by weak basal layers (facets) and a very stiff midpack. We did find moderate compression tests down 25cm on a facet layer, but this seems quite isloated and not reactive to ski cutting. The last two days produced surface hoar and surface facetting, that could be an issue in the future if more snow falls. Avalanche activity was limited to two small slabs and two smalll sluffs, all from very steep lee features. Avalanche Hazard through the period remained at MODERATE in the alpine and LOW at treeline and below. Travel conditions in the alpine are excellent and below tree line travel is easy as long as you stay on the hard packed trails. On approach from Bow Lake there is a significant amount of bare ice on the lake and up the creek to the base of the canyon making for slippery but manageable travel. The sunny skies brought out people by the dozens on Saturday morning!
Play safe!
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Twice the fun— Share photos while you chat with Windows Live Messenger.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
[MCR] Mt Field, Sapphire Col/Loop Brook.
Skied Mt. Field on Thursday 19th up to the upper moraines below the peak.
At 1550m the Jan 27 SH is 25mm creating a 2 cm thick layer down 20 cm. The
snow on top of this layer is fist to 4F facets, so there is no propagation
potential even though the layer is whumping and collapses suddenly in the
easy to moderate range with compression tests.( PST 80/100 end and ECT N)
This layer will definitely wake up with load. At treeline and above there
was no buried surface hoar and the skiing was very pleasant with 20 cm ski
pen over a pencil midpack. Even the lower elevation was still supportive
and it was easy skiing around the alders.
At 1550m the Jan 27 SH is 25mm creating a 2 cm thick layer down 20 cm. The
snow on top of this layer is fist to 4F facets, so there is no propagation
potential even though the layer is whumping and collapses suddenly in the
easy to moderate range with compression tests.( PST 80/100 end and ECT N)
This layer will definitely wake up with load. At treeline and above there
was no buried surface hoar and the skiing was very pleasant with 20 cm ski
pen over a pencil midpack. Even the lower elevation was still supportive
and it was easy skiing around the alders.
Up Sapphire Col and down the Lily to Loop brook on Friday 20th. Roger's
Pass is hammered with tracks everywhere and some very adventurous lines
have been skied (up and down). The skiing on the Asulkan still looked good
with about 5cm HN over 20 cm of facets over a harder layer. Unfortunately
we skiied down the Lily which was a mixture of hard wind slab, old tracks
and variable penetration in facets. Lots of visible slots on the glacier.
The trail down the creek is an iced obstacle course. Below 1800m in both
valleys the surface hoar is down anywhere from 30- 50 and reactive to ski
cutting on steep rolls and banks. In the afternoon the sun effect was
creating moist loose surface avalanches on south through west aspects up to
size 2. Great day, felt like spring.
Brad White
IFMGA Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Spray River Falls
Climbed Spray River Falls yesterday. Quite cold up there all day with suprisingly brittle ice once you top the pillar on the crux pitch. I cleaned a bunch of ripe dinner plates off of the bulge. Ice was so brittle and dry on top that I had to drill abalakov holes uphill or they would choke with ice crystals falling back into them from the tube of the screw.
Great day.
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
Friday, February 20, 2009
[MCR] Mountain conditions for the Whistler area
I spent the last few weeks ski touring throughout the Whistler area. There is widespread Surface Hoar on all aspects right up to ridge top, even on solar aspects where it's on top of a sun crust. On average I'd say the crystals are around 7-10mm (1cm) although in some areas it's even bigger. With the forecast of another clear day then light precip it seems unlikely that this layer will get destroyed before this interface gets buried. It is definitely going to be a layer to be concerned about once it gets some more snow on it.
Also of note was how much the settlement of the snowpack has caused many crevasse bridges to sag, a week ago things look alot different than they do now. I'd still say that it's wise to bring a crevasse kit and be more conservative where you may not have in the past.
Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain guide
craigskibum@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Johnson Canyon
Was up at Johnson Canyon. Not a bad idea to wear your crampons all the way in as the trail is very icy. Some good climbing to be had. Pillars are reforming after most of them broke off last month. Just wanted to warn folks about the enticing fully formed pillar on the right of the crag. From the main practice ice slopes far right, to the left of these is first the top of a broken pillar and then a bit further left the one I'm talking about. Last week there was a significant and very large crack at the top of this pillar, this crack has been covered up with new ice but I suspect that it is still fragile, so beware. Also since the approach trail has been put in from up creek, thus avoiding the treacherous downclimb from the walkway, tourists are making their way to the climbing area and subjecting themselves to ice fall. Happy ice climbing, Eric
Eric Dumerac
ACMG full Ski Guide, ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
Windows Live Messenger. Multitasking at its finest.
Eric Dumerac
ACMG full Ski Guide, ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
Windows Live Messenger. Multitasking at its finest.
[MCR] South Coast Mountains, East side North aspects
I spent the last few weeks guiding heli skiiers on the east side of the S coast mountains.
On many north aspects the surface and mid pack has facetted to the point one can push a ski pole all the way in to the handle. Not just in shallow rocky areas but out in open bowls.
In many places these facetts are on top of a solid but thin crust (Dec 6). Some places I've dug this crust still has the smooth glazed look of water ice. In other locations the crust is decomposing and almost nonexistent - especially in the drier eastern locals where there is really so little snow.
The common theme is loose granular snow on all shealtered north aspects. The skiing is great in these locations right now but once new snow falls it is pretty probable we will have a nasty unstable pack for a while.
Enjoy it while the good stuff lasts.
Dave Sarkany
Ski Guide
Email on the go, sent by TELUS
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Thursday, February 19, 2009
[MCR] South Coast Regions.....
I hope this finds Everyone keeping well and enjoying this wonderful sunshine.
In the mountains you will find a variety of snow conditions ranging from 'binding-top' to 'boot-top' powder. This powder snow is loose, very skiable, and sugary (faceted). The snow that rests on the surface now will become a weak layer once the next weather system brings new snowfall. Currently, the skiing has been excellent on north aspects all elevations and lower-angled east-facing aspects in the alpine. Steeper East aspects have been hit by the sun lately and are moist during the day and crusty in the morning. Slopes, especially steep ones, that receive any sunshine are being heated throughout the day and are begining to shed snow naturally ~ a sign that such slopes are not the places to linger near or below (especially once the sun begins to bake them in the mornings). Although I have not spent much time on western aspects these days, I presume that the same thing is happening there.
South aspects have a crust on them and are receiving a lot of warming these days. Be very cautious on southern slopes....especially ones that are steep, rocky, and shallow. Rocks and rocky cliffs attract heat from the sun and further accelerate the heating/deterioration of the adjacent snowpack.
Some observations from the Hurley Range (Pebble Glacier area as well as the Face Range) and south to the Rutherford Valley (near Whistler):
- of significant note is that the combination of a shallow snowpack and the recent faceting process has left us with many sagging and weakly-bridged crevasse bridges. Some are obvious but watch out if you're skiing shaded north aspects in fading light or beneath a veil of high cloud; both these situations tend to make it difficult to see features in dim light..... especially those loosely-bridged or sagging crevasses. Deep holes are appearing in spots that were recently thought passable. Please be careful if you're up there in glaciated terrain. A rope, glacier-travel gear, but also seeking the knowledge of how to use this kit would be a prudent measure these days. Please be careful.
-the snowpack is shallower, for example, on the east side of the Hurley Range and it's easy to ski right into rocks that are hiding just barely beneath the surface.
- the best skiing is north-facing terrain and terrain where you can see the entire slope from the top looking down. Any terrain that bulges or rolls concentrates stress and could be a problem in areas that have received any wind-effect lately.
- all that loose, sugary surface snow is flowing quite quickly and with some mass so caution if you've committed yourself to skiing steeper pitches. Some of this loose snow can flow large enough to knock you off your skis as you're skiing. Although these 'sluffs' are not currently large enough to bury a person, some are certainly large enough to push a person over a cliff or into an open crevasse...... so please make sure that there aren't any dangers below you as you ski/ride/sled.
Enjoy this great snow, that's out there, while being safe......
And please, keep thinking about avoiding steep, rocky, and shallow terrain.......
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Member
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
So many new options, so little time. Windows Live Messenger.
In the mountains you will find a variety of snow conditions ranging from 'binding-top' to 'boot-top' powder. This powder snow is loose, very skiable, and sugary (faceted). The snow that rests on the surface now will become a weak layer once the next weather system brings new snowfall. Currently, the skiing has been excellent on north aspects all elevations and lower-angled east-facing aspects in the alpine. Steeper East aspects have been hit by the sun lately and are moist during the day and crusty in the morning. Slopes, especially steep ones, that receive any sunshine are being heated throughout the day and are begining to shed snow naturally ~ a sign that such slopes are not the places to linger near or below (especially once the sun begins to bake them in the mornings). Although I have not spent much time on western aspects these days, I presume that the same thing is happening there.
South aspects have a crust on them and are receiving a lot of warming these days. Be very cautious on southern slopes....especially ones that are steep, rocky, and shallow. Rocks and rocky cliffs attract heat from the sun and further accelerate the heating/deterioration of the adjacent snowpack.
Some observations from the Hurley Range (Pebble Glacier area as well as the Face Range) and south to the Rutherford Valley (near Whistler):
- of significant note is that the combination of a shallow snowpack and the recent faceting process has left us with many sagging and weakly-bridged crevasse bridges. Some are obvious but watch out if you're skiing shaded north aspects in fading light or beneath a veil of high cloud; both these situations tend to make it difficult to see features in dim light..... especially those loosely-bridged or sagging crevasses. Deep holes are appearing in spots that were recently thought passable. Please be careful if you're up there in glaciated terrain. A rope, glacier-travel gear, but also seeking the knowledge of how to use this kit would be a prudent measure these days. Please be careful.
-the snowpack is shallower, for example, on the east side of the Hurley Range and it's easy to ski right into rocks that are hiding just barely beneath the surface.
- the best skiing is north-facing terrain and terrain where you can see the entire slope from the top looking down. Any terrain that bulges or rolls concentrates stress and could be a problem in areas that have received any wind-effect lately.
- all that loose, sugary surface snow is flowing quite quickly and with some mass so caution if you've committed yourself to skiing steeper pitches. Some of this loose snow can flow large enough to knock you off your skis as you're skiing. Although these 'sluffs' are not currently large enough to bury a person, some are certainly large enough to push a person over a cliff or into an open crevasse...... so please make sure that there aren't any dangers below you as you ski/ride/sled.
Enjoy this great snow, that's out there, while being safe......
And please, keep thinking about avoiding steep, rocky, and shallow terrain.......
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Member
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
So many new options, so little time. Windows Live Messenger.
[MCR] Valley of the Birds
Climbed Yellowbird, Seagull and Albatross yesterday, all in good shape. Parked at 39 not willing to drive through the water. Walked through the water 3 times, no wet feet. Access into the Valley very good.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
[MCR] Polar circus, Icefields parkway -Monday-
A second hand report on Polar circus conditions:
"Conditions were very good. Cold start at -21 C (just before 7am). Ice was
brittle in spots, hooked out in some sections, and even some plastic on the
last pitch. There was a well beaten path on the snow slopes between
pitches, I only punched through to the faceted base layer a few times
(reminded me of the poor snowpack – saw the same thing in K country the
other weekend). It did warm up significantly (climbing with no toque at the
top in the sun – sorry I didn't get a temp) during the day, but in the
shade it still felt pretty cold. I didn't see any sluffing, snowballing,
rockfall, of anything else that made me think twice, but there is
definitely enough snow in the gullies that if it released, it would be
pretty huge. Temp at the end of the day was -13 (5pm ish)."
In addition, to date, Parks Canada has not done any explosive control on
the gullies above polar circus. FYI.
Garth Lemke
Public Safety Warden
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
Garde de parc, Sécurité publique
Guide de ski auxiliaire, Association des guides de montagne canadiens
Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Garth.Lemke@pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-6158
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-6135
Cellular Phone | Téléphone cellulaire 780-852-8811
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper
Think GREEN! Please don't print this email unless you really need to.
Soyez ÉCOLO! N'imprimez ce courriel que si vous devez vraiment le faire.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
"Conditions were very good. Cold start at -21 C (just before 7am). Ice was
brittle in spots, hooked out in some sections, and even some plastic on the
last pitch. There was a well beaten path on the snow slopes between
pitches, I only punched through to the faceted base layer a few times
(reminded me of the poor snowpack – saw the same thing in K country the
other weekend). It did warm up significantly (climbing with no toque at the
top in the sun – sorry I didn't get a temp) during the day, but in the
shade it still felt pretty cold. I didn't see any sluffing, snowballing,
rockfall, of anything else that made me think twice, but there is
definitely enough snow in the gullies that if it released, it would be
pretty huge. Temp at the end of the day was -13 (5pm ish)."
In addition, to date, Parks Canada has not done any explosive control on
the gullies above polar circus. FYI.
Garth Lemke
Public Safety Warden
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
Garde de parc, Sécurité publique
Guide de ski auxiliaire, Association des guides de montagne canadiens
Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Garth.Lemke@pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-6158
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-6135
Cellular Phone | Téléphone cellulaire 780-852-8811
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper
Think GREEN! Please don't print this email unless you really need to.
Soyez ÉCOLO! N'imprimez ce courriel que si vous devez vraiment le faire.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Monday, February 16, 2009
[MCR] South Purcells
Hi,
I spent the weekend skiing in the Dewar Creek drainage in the very southern part of the Purcell Wilderness Conservancy. Here's a summary of the conditions we found:
In the valley bottoms (~1500m) and on protected slopes below treeline the surface hoar layer buried on Jan 27 is prevalent and very prominent, but is only down about 15-20cm. This overlying snow is quite faceted and has minimal slab properties. This layer was failing and propagating in flat terrain, but interestingly it sounded more like glass tinkling than whumpfing because it is so shallow.
This surface hoar gets smaller with increasing elevation, while the amount of snow overlying it increases. At treeline it was down about 30cm, but again the snow above did not show much in the way of slab development. I couldn't get it to propagate as a slab when ski cutting steep rolls, instead the faceted surface snow would sluff down to the surface hoar layer. At this elevation the total snowpack was a decent 190-200cm but it felt generally quite weak and facetted when probing around.
The surface hoar diminishes above treeline and is replaced by recently buried, faceted windslab. There was a thin suncrust on most solar aspects at all elevations. A few cm of recent convective storm snow made for surprisingly good ski quality higher up, and the older facetted surface lower down was also very good, as long you stayed off the sun exposed slopes.
The snow stability is good at all elevations for the time being, but this will change if we ever get a significant dump of snow, particularly at the lower elevations where the surface hoar is well preserved.
Jeff Volp
ACMG Ski Guide
Kimberley, BC
I spent the weekend skiing in the Dewar Creek drainage in the very southern part of the Purcell Wilderness Conservancy. Here's a summary of the conditions we found:
In the valley bottoms (~1500m) and on protected slopes below treeline the surface hoar layer buried on Jan 27 is prevalent and very prominent, but is only down about 15-20cm. This overlying snow is quite faceted and has minimal slab properties. This layer was failing and propagating in flat terrain, but interestingly it sounded more like glass tinkling than whumpfing because it is so shallow.
This surface hoar gets smaller with increasing elevation, while the amount of snow overlying it increases. At treeline it was down about 30cm, but again the snow above did not show much in the way of slab development. I couldn't get it to propagate as a slab when ski cutting steep rolls, instead the faceted surface snow would sluff down to the surface hoar layer. At this elevation the total snowpack was a decent 190-200cm but it felt generally quite weak and facetted when probing around.
The surface hoar diminishes above treeline and is replaced by recently buried, faceted windslab. There was a thin suncrust on most solar aspects at all elevations. A few cm of recent convective storm snow made for surprisingly good ski quality higher up, and the older facetted surface lower down was also very good, as long you stayed off the sun exposed slopes.
The snow stability is good at all elevations for the time being, but this will change if we ever get a significant dump of snow, particularly at the lower elevations where the surface hoar is well preserved.
Jeff Volp
ACMG Ski Guide
Kimberley, BC
[MCR] Rogan's Gulley
Climbed Rogan's today, Feb 16. The sun is starting to have some affect, we had several softball sized rocks come down the route, one hit me in the foot! Ice and ibuprofen. Forecast is looking clear, sunny and warmer, I suspect there will be more rockfall on East through South facing routes.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yanmuska Mountain Adventures
[MCR] Cascade
Climbed Cascade Falls yesterday to the end of the crux pitch and rappelled from there. The climb is in good shape with more exposed ice, and less snow walking, in the middle section. I was impressed to see how big the route had avalanched, a number of tortured trees there.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
Saturday, February 14, 2009
[MCR] Robertson Glacier, Kananaskis Country (Feb 13)
Robertson Glacier, Kananaskis Country (Feb 13)
Went for a walk with our skis on up the Robertson Glacier yesterday.
Fast travel with a packed trail to the toe of the glacier then
horrendously slow travel up the glacier itself. Snow depth ranged from
4 to 40 cm, depending where in the well-formed sastrugi you decided to
probe. Near the top we found depths up to 140 cm. The small ice cliff,
half-way up the glacier on climber's right, appears to be quite active
since there is a bunch of ice debris scattered about.
Luckily, we had a premonition to pack ski crampons because we needed
them to ascend the steeper roll two-thirds of the way up. Ski crampons
on a north aspect in mid-February--who would have thought! Obviously,
ski quality was poor, unless bashing sastrugi moguls and skittering
around on bare glacial ice is your thing.
Sean Isaac
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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[MCR] Rockies West Side
Just back from a week ski touring in the Wild West End of the Rockies, near the Lyell Icefield.
Average snowpack was about 175 cm, in the alpine it was variable with depths of 100-200+ cm on the glaciers. 5-10 cm of recent snow overlies various surfaces: the Jan 27 surface hoar and facets in the trees, a 10 cm thick hard windslab/windcrust in all open areas and a thin suncrust on solar aspects. Where there was a hard slab/crust we had moderate sudden shears on the Jan 27 layer, this was nonreactive to skis except below 1700 m where the surface hoar is more pronounced and we had shooting cracks on a few steep rolls. The December facets were down about 80 cm and we had hard shears on that layer.
The only avalanche activity we saw were loose snow avalanches out of steep terrain to size 1.5.
We tried to ski on planar features and avoid terrain traps as best we could.
I have limited experience in this area but things are looking drier than I have seen here before.
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
[MCR] eastern Selkirks
Just returned from a week on the east side of the Selkirks just north of the Trans-Canada highway.
Weather:
We had very light snowfalls that accumulated 5 - 10 cm of cold, fluffy, dry powder over the week. Temperatures were cold--warmest about -6.0 in sheltered, sunny locations at treeline with the coldest being -19.0 this morning after a night of clear skies. Cloud cover was a mixed bag from fully overcast to clear--nothing lasting more than 12 hours or so. Winds were light and variable although I did hear some stronger winds for a few hours two nights ago.
Snowpack, in general terms:
The snowpack depth and layering is extremely variable over elevation and terrain features. Higher elevations and exposed terrain features were hammered by very strong winds from variable directions about 2 weeks ago and we found very, very hard crusts and surface slabs as well as hard sastrugi. Winds also penetrated into the trees creating crusts and thin slabs. Where there was little evidence of wind affect (below treeline, sheltered areas) a strong crust or thin slab exists (the most recent warm snowfall frozen hard by cold temperatures?). All this lies under the 5-10cm of fluff mentioned above.
Snowpack, more specifically:
In the low alpine (around 7500 feet) we found a 160cm snowpack on the lower end of the local glacier. The weakest layer in the entire pack here was a 5cm thick layer of facets (sugary grains) right on the ice. Above this was a 40cm mix of facets and crusts--the November layer(s) that dominate the deep snowpack in much of BC and Alberta this year. The middle of the alpine snowpack is mostly faceted snow with the various weak layers from early and late December clearly visible but mostly quite firm and reasonably well bonded. The upper snowpack is a mixed bag of slightly weaker and stronger layers, none of which showed much indication of instability for the moment. The January 27th surface is visible in the alpine under about 25 - 40 cm of very hard (Knife resistance--almost as hard as a well tilled slope at the ski hill) slab with a dusting of new snow on top. The surface slab seems reasonably well bonded to the January 27th surface for the moment.
At treeline (around 6700 feet) we found 100 - 150 cm of snow. Under the 5 - 10cm of fluff lies a 20 - 40cm very hard wind or settlement/temperature crust/slab. Pretty much the entire remainder of the snowpack is faceted and the facet/crust combos from November are easily recognizeable near the ground. The top layer, at the moment, seems fairly well bonded to the underlying facets. Failure did occur at the top of the November layer but the nature of the failure suggests it was unlikely to be triggered by a skier in this location, where the weak layer is over 100cm down.
Below treeline, the snowpack thins rapidly to perhaps 70-80cm with a thinner crust/slab on the surface that carries a skier (mostly) and weak facets below. While we did not see it, neighbouring areas were reporting surface hoar (feathery crystals) in the upper part of the snowpack below treeline.
Avalanche Activity:
Other than a few small loose dry sluffs and a couple of thin, soft slabs (all on quite steep terrain) we saw no avalanche activity. Small skier-triggered slabs were reported in nearby areas, failing on surface hoar in below treeline locations.
Travel:
Tracksetting was tricky with the very hard surfaces. The bit of fluff on top did little to make it easier although it did seem to get a bit better the last couple of days (maybe my skinning technique just got better?). Ski crampons would be helpful until things change. We found decent skiing on moderate, sheltered alpine terrain where it was easier to set an edge in the hard snow beneath the 5 - 10 cm of new snow and where there was no hidden sastrugi lurking. At treeline, if you break through the surface slab, you sink boot-top or knee deep into the facets below. Below treeline you sink almost to the ground in many places if you break through.
Crevasses: coverage on the glaciers is highly variable and generally below normal in this region.
Sliders on hard surface layers: kind felt like spring touring sometimes, where the potential for a long slider on a hard, smooth surface is a concern.
Avalanche: My primary concerns are the weak basal layer in the alpine and the generally weak, faceted mid and lower snowpack at and below treeline. The likelihood of triggering an avalanche in this area at the moment is quite low. However, there is potential for large, destructive avalanches in the alpine if something were to trigger that deep layer. At and below treeline, there's not much of a load or a slab on the facets--yet--so not much hazard at the moment.
Terrain and Risk Management:
On the glaciers I stayed on fairly benign terrain: compression zones where crevasses are less likely and low ground where the wind had drifted snow in a bit deeper.
On steep ground I'd consider taking skis off and kicking steps, using ski or boot crampons, or just plain slowing down and taking extra care on uptracks if traversing or turning. Have well tuned skis with sharp edges for downhill runs on steep slopes to handle the "pow on pavement"!
In the alpine I stayed out from under large, steep slopes. I chose minimize or eliminate where possible, exposure to slopes that had potentially large triggers above, figuring it would take something like an icefall, cornice fall, or a small slab or sluff from steep cliffs above to trigger one of those deeply buried persistent weak layers, the one of greatest concern being the basal facets on glacier ice. At and below treeline, I skied cautiously if I encountered a steep, convex or unsupported slope.
The existing snowpack, while apparently quite stable at the moment, does not inspire much confidence. The current surface is setting up to become another persistent weak layer of facets or perhaps surface hoar on a very firm slab/crust when it gets buried. I'd be extremely careful if/when the weather changes. Warming temperatures, strong solar radiation, any significant snowfall, or any kind of windloading event would be of concern. Certainly any of these weather changes will increase the sensitivity to triggering of any one of a number of weaker layers now in the snowpack, more so if more than one factor occurs at once. If/when the weather turns, I'd throttle back pretty heavily and stay away from avalanche terrain to see if the current surface holds. After the weather becomes more benign, I'd give it a couple of days before stepping out again to see if the deeper, persistent weak layers might reactivate.
Karl Klassen
Mountain Guide
Mountain Guide
[MCR] Coast: The Spearhead Traverse Feb. 13th
Went around the Spearhead Traverse yesterday (Friday 13th Feb.).
Avalanches: Numerous small size 1 loose avalanches observed in steep terrain all aspects within recent storm snow. Also evidence of an old large cycle.
Crevasses: Still many exposed holes and the odd thin bridge on the regular travel routes required some careful route finding in places. We also rappelled off the rock band south of Overlord to avoid crevasses.
Snow conditions: Height of snow probed on glaciers ranged from 120cm on the west aspect of Iago Glacier to over 200cm on most other glaciers. Good trail breaking on 20cm of recent low density storm snow over a crust. This storm snow had seen little wind affect. Great skiing all aspects except for steep solar where a sun crust had formed. Ski crampons were not required.
Singing Pass trail was fast and icy. Be particularly cautious after the slump where there are two nasty ditches (both marked with flagging tape on the alders).
Weather: Thin scattered skies with increasing cloudiness. Cold temps, -11 degrees at the bottom of Benvolio Glacier at 2:15pm. Light winds.
Alex Geary
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
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Avalanches: Numerous small size 1 loose avalanches observed in steep terrain all aspects within recent storm snow. Also evidence of an old large cycle.
Crevasses: Still many exposed holes and the odd thin bridge on the regular travel routes required some careful route finding in places. We also rappelled off the rock band south of Overlord to avoid crevasses.
Snow conditions: Height of snow probed on glaciers ranged from 120cm on the west aspect of Iago Glacier to over 200cm on most other glaciers. Good trail breaking on 20cm of recent low density storm snow over a crust. This storm snow had seen little wind affect. Great skiing all aspects except for steep solar where a sun crust had formed. Ski crampons were not required.
Singing Pass trail was fast and icy. Be particularly cautious after the slump where there are two nasty ditches (both marked with flagging tape on the alders).
Weather: Thin scattered skies with increasing cloudiness. Cold temps, -11 degrees at the bottom of Benvolio Glacier at 2:15pm. Light winds.
Alex Geary
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
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Friday, February 13, 2009
[MCR] ice conditions
Been working with Simon the past 5 days multipitching.
Some observations on the routes we climbed:
Field- Masseys good but kind of harder on the left with a good sneak route on the right
Guinness- hooked out
Carlsberg- fat and travelled
Ghost- easier access then earlier in the season- we got in with a Toyota Rav. Stumpland is still a bit tricky and icy but with a spotter okay. North Ghost no problem to 39, South Ghost denied by a frozen/deep crossing a couple kms from the parking.
Valley of the Birds- great...Seagull, Albatross, and Yellow Bird all good, as well as Eagle although it looks super sun scorched, the ice underneath is still good. A little hollow sounding for the first 15 meters of the pillar...might not last tooooo long.
This House of Sky- well travelled, and all rigged with bolted anchors to make ascent and descent super casual!
Golden- Pretty Nuts and Riverview good. Essondale Right, pillar felt thin and fragile- didn't climb it.
Professors- Fatter than usual...and busier than usual...12 people in total on it on a Tuesday!!!
Sarah Hueniken
Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
[MCR] Crowfoot Mountain - Wapta Icefields Area
Climbed Crowfoot Mountain today with Arian S. and Matt M.
Skies were broken with light west winds and temperatures at ridgetop in the -20's. As everyone is surely aware by now HSL conditions predominate in TL and ALP areas. A few cm's of dust makes the skiing bearable where this HSL is smooth, but otherwise the ski quality is poor with dramatic 50cm high sastrugi on the glacier. Hs on the glacier was 150cm. BTL the snowpack is still weak and facetted, but there is the odd good turn in sheltered areas where the snowpack has enough strength to keep you off the ground. Otherwise, if you venture off the beaten track you quickly find yourself standing on the ground, about knee-deep in facets. Though avalanche hazard is in the moderate range, there is still concern for shallow snowpack areas where the HSL exists. Of specific concern are morainal areas.
Having said all this, we decided that though overall ski quality was less than desireable, it was still a great day to bag a peak while enjoying some chilly, but beautiful weather.
Play safe out there.
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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Skies were broken with light west winds and temperatures at ridgetop in the -20's. As everyone is surely aware by now HSL conditions predominate in TL and ALP areas. A few cm's of dust makes the skiing bearable where this HSL is smooth, but otherwise the ski quality is poor with dramatic 50cm high sastrugi on the glacier. Hs on the glacier was 150cm. BTL the snowpack is still weak and facetted, but there is the odd good turn in sheltered areas where the snowpack has enough strength to keep you off the ground. Otherwise, if you venture off the beaten track you quickly find yourself standing on the ground, about knee-deep in facets. Though avalanche hazard is in the moderate range, there is still concern for shallow snowpack areas where the HSL exists. Of specific concern are morainal areas.
Having said all this, we decided that though overall ski quality was less than desireable, it was still a great day to bag a peak while enjoying some chilly, but beautiful weather.
Play safe out there.
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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Monday, February 9, 2009
[MCR] Yamnuska Blast Date Correction
Lafarge is planning the rock blast on FRIDAY, February 13, 2009. (Not Monday). Sorry, please note date is correct, just day was off!!
Thanks
George Field
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[MCR] Yamnuska Blast
Lafarge is planning a rock blast at Yamnuska quarry on Monday, February 13, 2009 between the hours of 1200 and 1400 hours. A guard will be on site at 0700 hr on the day of the blast. Awareness signs are being posted this a.m. (Feb.9, 2009). Lafarge will clear the Yamnuska perimeter prior to the noon hour blast. Signs will be removed once the blast is cleared by the blaster I/C.
George Field
Public Safety Specialist, Kananaskis Country
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Sunday, February 8, 2009
[MCR] Ogden Routes, Guinness and Guiness Stout - Field
Hello,
Went and checked out The pillars, Field of Dreams and Betty's Pillar on Mt Ogden yesterday (Feb 7). It was an easy hour ski to the base of these climbs and skis or snow shoes are a must for the approach between the Takakkaw Falls road and the routes. There is no new snow in Field unlike the 15cm that fell in Canmore. The routes are in good shape with no crowds and a sunny aspect. Some lines are becoming a little sun leached but with a bit of digging good gear can be found.
On Feb 5th Carl Johnston and I also climbed Guinness and Guinness Stout. Both were in great shape with a good trail between the top of Guinness and Guinness Stout through the trees. The snow in the gully was nothing but unconsolidated facets and depth hoar off the trail.
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
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Went and checked out The pillars, Field of Dreams and Betty's Pillar on Mt Ogden yesterday (Feb 7). It was an easy hour ski to the base of these climbs and skis or snow shoes are a must for the approach between the Takakkaw Falls road and the routes. There is no new snow in Field unlike the 15cm that fell in Canmore. The routes are in good shape with no crowds and a sunny aspect. Some lines are becoming a little sun leached but with a bit of digging good gear can be found.
On Feb 5th Carl Johnston and I also climbed Guinness and Guinness Stout. Both were in great shape with a good trail between the top of Guinness and Guinness Stout through the trees. The snow in the gully was nothing but unconsolidated facets and depth hoar off the trail.
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
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Wednesday, February 4, 2009
[MCR] Just North of Whistler....
I hope this finds Everyone having a pleasant start to February.
I spent the past couple of days moving through a mix of alpine and treeline terrain in two different drainages called the Rutherford Valley and the Ryan River Valley - north of Whistler, and noted the following:
The strength and consistency of the alpine winds, these past few days, is the most noteworthy comment. Strong to very strong southerly winds have been moving snow onto north aspects and creating thick slabs of snow in avalanche start zones. These 'start zones' (where a trigger like a skier or a falling cornice is more likely to initiate an avalanche) include steeper slopes, bulging slopes, or slopes that have been concentrating the snow-driven snow (like gullies, or confined and concentrated terrain). Since the winds have been strong and moving snow lower onto these north-facing parcels of terrain, it is important to consider that a person can still trigger an avalanche lower down in the terrain if you were in the wrong place.
Currently, the best skiing is in sheltered north-facing terrain where the winds have not affected the snow surface. There is a weaker layer now buried up to 55cm from the snow surface in treeline areas. This layer appears differently depending upon your aspect (north, east, south, or west) and your regional location.... but it is there. I tested this layer and it showed that if the layer were triggered that it could easily spread across and affect an entire slope. Because of this, it is important to - again, consider the terrain you might find yourself moving through. Think of the 'scale' of the terrain and choose smaller slopes without steep rolls on it and slopes without consequence. And, please avoid exposure to that wind-affected alpine terrain (or any wind affected terrain) that may be hanging directly above you........
That lingering layer of sugary snow, buried in December, still lives deeply in the snowpack (and not so deeply in certain places) and is still a real consideration. Keep thinking about avoiding shallow-rocky-steep areas..........
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
ACMG Member
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I spent the past couple of days moving through a mix of alpine and treeline terrain in two different drainages called the Rutherford Valley and the Ryan River Valley - north of Whistler, and noted the following:
The strength and consistency of the alpine winds, these past few days, is the most noteworthy comment. Strong to very strong southerly winds have been moving snow onto north aspects and creating thick slabs of snow in avalanche start zones. These 'start zones' (where a trigger like a skier or a falling cornice is more likely to initiate an avalanche) include steeper slopes, bulging slopes, or slopes that have been concentrating the snow-driven snow (like gullies, or confined and concentrated terrain). Since the winds have been strong and moving snow lower onto these north-facing parcels of terrain, it is important to consider that a person can still trigger an avalanche lower down in the terrain if you were in the wrong place.
Currently, the best skiing is in sheltered north-facing terrain where the winds have not affected the snow surface. There is a weaker layer now buried up to 55cm from the snow surface in treeline areas. This layer appears differently depending upon your aspect (north, east, south, or west) and your regional location.... but it is there. I tested this layer and it showed that if the layer were triggered that it could easily spread across and affect an entire slope. Because of this, it is important to - again, consider the terrain you might find yourself moving through. Think of the 'scale' of the terrain and choose smaller slopes without steep rolls on it and slopes without consequence. And, please avoid exposure to that wind-affected alpine terrain (or any wind affected terrain) that may be hanging directly above you........
That lingering layer of sugary snow, buried in December, still lives deeply in the snowpack (and not so deeply in certain places) and is still a real consideration. Keep thinking about avoiding shallow-rocky-steep areas..........
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
ACMG Member
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Tuesday, February 3, 2009
[MCR] Field - Twisted
Hello,
Carl Johnston and I climbed twisted today. Hand shears on the approach gave a clean shear down about 10cm, a wind skin above the previous wind slab, and a broken shear down about 30cm in the facets. The two aproach gullies that must be crossed to get to the base of the route had slid previously. We climbed the direct first pitch which was thin as usual but did take the occasional short screw. The belay at the top of the first pitch still needs a #2 camalot and a 0.5-0.75 piece to back up the single self drive bolt. The second pitch is in good shape with a bit of a hollow section at 2/3's height. Final pitch is fat.
A great day for climbing!
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine guide
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Carl Johnston and I climbed twisted today. Hand shears on the approach gave a clean shear down about 10cm, a wind skin above the previous wind slab, and a broken shear down about 30cm in the facets. The two aproach gullies that must be crossed to get to the base of the route had slid previously. We climbed the direct first pitch which was thin as usual but did take the occasional short screw. The belay at the top of the first pitch still needs a #2 camalot and a 0.5-0.75 piece to back up the single self drive bolt. The second pitch is in good shape with a bit of a hollow section at 2/3's height. Final pitch is fat.
A great day for climbing!
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine guide
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[MCR] Wicked wanda
Speaking of wind-I must relay a wild experience I had with a client on the David Thompson Hwy. last Fri. after climbing 5.7.0. While finishing the last pitch, I felt extremely strong winds and didn’t feel comfortable using the trees to secure the rap, so we walked off to the right. Walking down thru the forest we observed large mature trees broken in 1/2 and some were rooted right from the ground. We hurried out and got on the road asap. As we walked, we noticed a vehicle in a totally different spot than I parked my truck, so assumed it was another vehicle. As we approached it, we realized it was indeed my truck and it was between 100-150ft away from the original spot, with the brakes on,wheels forward, in exactly the same way I left it. We studied the area and there were no tires tracks in the snow, no skid marks,no damage,doors locked, everything in tack.
We were able to drive out on to the road in 4x4, and left perplexed. The only conclusion we can come to is, there must’ve been a localized tornado that picked it up and put it down gently....or perhaps we entered the twilight zone...or UFO’s really do exist!
Watch out for bright shiny objects in the sky,
Play safe.
Marco Delesalle
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Sunday, February 1, 2009
[MCR] Rogers Pass
Been skiing at Rogers Pass for the past week. The old surfaces were buried on January 27 and there is a variety of depths of storm snow covering that interface, elevation and aspect dependant, but probably 30-60 cm on average. This interface is either surface hoar, facets, suncrust or a combination of any of the above.
Visibility has been mostly poor and we haven't gone much above treeline. We have triggered numerous sensitive slabs at that elevation but they have been very soft and not propagating far, all have been size 1. Some of these were remote triggered. Otherwise there has been a surprising lack of avalanche activity, but since there has been a fair bit of moderate wind from the W or SW, I suspect there has been windslab activity on the Jan 27 layer in the alpine that we haven't been able to see. There hasn't been a report of an avalanche on the December facets for some time but we have definitely kept that layer in the back of our mind this week.
We have skied terrain up to 40+ degrees where there hasn't been wind effect, but as soon as there is evidence of wind we have pulled in the horns and tried to avoid it. We have also limited our exposure to large slopes above whenever there has been wind loading on the upper ridges.
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