Welcome to fall! The series of storms and cooler temperatures over the last two weeks have brought quite a bit of snow to the main ranges of the Columbia and Rocky Mountains and created a mix of summer and winter hazards to watch for. Snowline was down to treeline during the past few days and amounts of 10-50+ cm were reported from different areas up high in the alpine.
Snow amounts vary considerably with aspect and elevation and could be up to 1m thick in lee loaded areas, while steeper or more wind exposed areas may be mostly free of snow. Moderate temperatures should help the storm snow bond into place, but a caution for wind slabs, especially on moderate angled lee slopes, is still recommended. These weaknesses will likely persist a little longer on North aspects. The snow and wind of the last two weeks have also done a good job of covering many crevasses with very thin snow bridges. Diligence in probing and careful route finding on the glaciers will be a must over the next while. Expect snow on most alpine rock routes along the Divide and the main ranges of the Columbia Mountains with some verglas on shady aspects. Sunny aspects will have less snow, but driving through Lake Louise and Rogers Pass today it looked like there was still a fair bit of snow on ledges and gullies on all aspects down to around 2700m.
The good news is that with better weather forecast for the next few days, the cool temps and clear skies should make for decent travel conditions and begin to clear the snow off sunny aspects. Be prepared to deal with a bit more trail breaking and watch carefully for the hazards created by the recent snowfall. Ridge routes and routes with little overhead snow loading might be a good bet until you have a sense for snow amounts and avalanche hazard in your area.
As you move East of the divide, the alpine rock routes continue to be in fairly good shape with snow on North aspects but generally dry conditions on sunny aspects. For example Mt Louis and Castle Mountain are snow free as of this morning, but expect bits of snow or ice on some of the ledges and gullies. The walk off for Yamnuska is still lightly snow covered, but nice dry climbing exists on most routes that catch the sun.
Enjoy the beautiful fall weather!
Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
(P.S. It is sunny and hot in Skaha right now!)